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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hot as heck in Texas, so I run heavier oils in the summer in many things...would it be ok to run hydro-guard instead of low-vis HG here, or should I stick with the low-vis stuff?
 

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Hi David, Fancy that! Another WFM member not far from me in Texas! I'm west of you over in Burleson. Don't know about running the Low Vis Hygard, but I wouldn't want to chance it. Don't those 316's and 318's already have a cooler? I'm running a 312/317 with no ill effects.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey Darwin, Yep, we're certainly a minority in here. Seems like 95%+ of members are from the upper midwest (lucky fellas have access to a plethora of JD's). The 316 doesn't have a cooler, but what's left of my 316 is piled in the back of my pickup. My 318 just worked hard in the heat for 4 hours and the hydro got very hot, but worked flawlessly so I'll stick with low-vis.
 

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Hi guys! Have been going to change from the red stuff in my 318 and have been wondering about using reg hy guard instead of the low vis. Guy I bought tractor from in Greenville uses non JD oil that meets the hy-guard specs and it's working for him I believe. Looking for opinions! Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hello Paul, Good to have another Texan in the fold. I just did some searching in here and found a few similar discussions on the subject of Hy-guard. Seems the low-vis kind is good for some crazy sub-zero usage to around 86f. The regular is good from our so-called "winter" temps to 100+, so I believe I'll be changing mine out for the heavier kind before it gets real hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I wanted a 318 but couldn't find one, so I bought a 316 locally that didn't have many hours on it. It was faded with a little surface rust from sitting outside for years, but pretty tight otherwise. I began looking into retrofitting power steering to it, but that just didn't look like a good idea. Then I found a stripped down 318 rolling chassis in Forney, decided to get it, and then moved the engine/sheet metal, and other good 316 parts over to it.

As it is, I now have a pretty solid low hour 318 for less than a grand. And judging from the blister on the heal of my hand from turning around all my trees this weekend (need a spinner), the power steering was a wise investment.

So I have the leftover frame with a couple small bits left on it laying in my truck. I haven't decided yet what to do with it, but it needed out of the garages to make room for other projects.
 

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David,
Understand completely about the power steering. I'm reaching the age where PS could be a plus. Unfortunately I've not run onto any of the newer 80's model of 318/320/330 series JD's that have PS as standard. I'd love to have a 332 or a 400/420, but haven't ever seen one yet.
 

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If its got red stuff in it, stick with that...Type F transmission fluid. Especially if you have attachments. If you change to Hy-Gard, you will need to bleed the attachments cylinders too...lots of work. I suppose it wouldnt hurt to mix a little, but in any case, you can still use Type F in it if you want to.
 

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I live in Austin.

It doesn't hurt to mix any of the commonly found oil-based stuff together. It gives you the method necessary to obtain a custom weight. In the refining/manufacturing process, how do you think that they obtain the different weights?

I have read several times from different good sources that you should not mix oil-based hydraulic fluid with vegetable-based hydraulic fluid. It might be difficult to find veg-based hydro fluid outside of California.
 

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Good afternoon, am new to the site but am seeking the collective knowledge of the site to make my life just a little easier. Winter is coming and as I was removing the tiller off of my L110 and putting the snow blower on I noticed that the clutch/brake pedal was hitting the body of the tractor and not returning when release. After crawling under the tractor I noticed that the bracket that the bottom end of the steering column bolts on to is cracked in half. the bracket split right up the middle of the holes that are there for the bolts to hold the column in place. HERE is where my question is, what is the easiest/most effective fix for this? the bracket is welded to the actual frame and from what I can see there is no way for me to take that bracket or part of the frame off to fix/weld it at all? Help!!
 

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Robert, can this be welded in place?, or second can the weld holding the broken bracket be ground out and the bracket removed for a further weld repair, then welded back on. If its in a tight spot you might have to use a TIG process as opposed to stick or MIG. As TIG,is a more precise and controllable weld process than stick or MIG, problem is most people don't have the equipment for it.
 

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Yeah its located under the engine mounting plate so I can lift the tractor to kind of get better access to it but I'm not comfortable enough with y stick welding to get in and try it. I think my work around will be getting a second sheet of 3/16" steel cutting, shaping and drilling the necs. holes, the same as the broken bracket and then welding it using my flux core wire welder to the remaining bracket that is still factory welded to the frame. I should have better luck getting it into the limited space I have? Hopefully this will work and hold?
 
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