[sailon]

I am in the process of installing the Hydro Trans Damper Control Kit - AM116222. The shoulder nuts (M112830) that attach the hydro dampener to the anchor bracket (AM116327) and to the control link (AM116325) are no longer available. I need to make a bushing or find an appropriate length should bolt and am wondering what the length and diameter of the shoulder is on the original nuts. Picture below is from a fellow WFM archive post.

 

[chuckv]

Bob,

Since these shoulder nuts do not rotate, the clearances are not as critical as if they did -- but you don't want slop here or anywhere in the hydro linkage. You might try some very hard rubber bushings and some through bolts/washers and nuts of appropriate sizes... If the rubber bushing (or hose, etc) is a bit longer than the eye on the dampener, when you tighten it down it should clamp on the bolt and expand to fill the eye with no slop at all.

Even though that is my picture, I don't seem to find the dimensions of the shoulder nuts anywhere in my data -- sorry.

Chuck

 

[sailon]

Chuck,

When the kit instructions showed shoulder nuts I thought I needed a little play to allow the damper to rotate a little. Since that is not the case, your idea for using hard rubber bushings sounds perfect. THANKS!

Oh and thanks for the nice picture your took last year.

 

[jeff_kluewer]

Bob, I need to install my new damper, I will try to get pictures and measurements for you.

 

[abrizgis]

Shoulder is 16.5mm long.

Shoulder is 11mm in diameter.

This comes from the engineering print.

 

[sailon]

Perfect - Thanks Andrew!

 

[jeff_kluewer]

Here is a picture of the nuts and bolts, but I don't have anything to measure in metric.

 

[sailon]

Thks for the picture Jeff!

Andrew - Would you have an Engineering print for JD part M74636 and be able to compare it to the M112830? The JD site shows the M112830 as no longer available and doesn't provide any specs. This shoulder nut appears to be used in my Rev 3 linkage and is still available from JD.
Per the specs on the JD Parts site the thickness is 11 MM and the across flats is 20 mm. Perhaps they could just be cut down. M74636 specs are as follows:

Specification
Weight: 0.02 LBS 0.01 Kg
Thread Size 6.000 MM
Thread Pitch 1.000 MM
Thickness 11.000 MM
Across Flats 20.000 MM
See Sketch 5.000 MM
Material 1117CD
Finish A

 

[abrizgis]

Don't have that print. Sounds like it may be an option. FYI, these shoulder bolts are extremely hard. You wont be able to cut them with a hacksaw or equivalent (I tried).

 

[sailon]

Do you think a few extra washers/spacers on the end would work or will I run into clearance issues?

 

[darrollr]

Well folks, I really appreciate all of the information in this thread and others.
I am getting ready to install my (Optional) Hydrostatic Transmission Damper Control Kit on my '89 430. I have pieced together everything I need except the (M112830) special Shoulder nuts. The shaft/bushing portion of the nut is 16.5mm or 21/32" long and 11mm or 7/16" in diameter.


So my 1st question is in regards to doing is one of two things:


I could use grade 8, 1/4" bolts and lock nuts, along with 1/4" I.D. X 7/16" O.D. Poly tubing for the bushing. Use a 7/16" I.D. Rubber grommet for the rubber spacer, and use washers accordingly to make up for the lack of my nuts and bolts having flanges.


Or, I could drill out the holes to 7/16" on the #3-Shock Damper Mount Bracket (AM116327) and the #7 -Control Link (AM116187). Then just use 7/16" wide flange nuts and bolts along with the 7/16" I.D. Rubber grommet for the rubber spacer.
Will either of these options work and if so then which one is the better option?


My 2nd question is:
I've read that I can keep the OEM front vertical mounted damper installed as well. Will this cause any problems or have any benifit? I just replaced it with a new one and would hate for it to be a total waist of money.


3rd question:
Is the new AM121646 Torsional Damper supposed to push itself back out like a shock absorber after being compressed? Mine stays in after I compress it. It is hard to both compress and decompress by hand.

 

[ettrick]

Daroll
For the third question. The damper should work as you describe. hard to move either way. I think it will be fine to leave the original shock in there, and you will feel better knowing your money is well spent.
Dan