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Hydrostatic Creep....how do you fix this?

14446 Views 35 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  benton
Anyone have any experience fixing hydrostatic creep. How difficult is this fix, I've heard there is some kind of linkage adjustment that can be made.
I've got a JD314.
Any tips would be helpful.
Thanks.
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Mark,
I have the same issue with my 300 I'm fixing up. Do a search for "hydro creep" and you will find some great info. Since my 300 is a recent pickup, I started by changing the hydro fluid and filter.
Nick
My 330 suffers from the hydro creep. One thing I noticed last week when I was mowing - if I push the mower deck raise/lower lever forward (as if lowering the deck) and hold it there when I start up a hill, the mower does not slow down, the 330 maintains it's speed. The mower slows down as soon as I let the lever go back to the neutral position. Is this typical of the worn linkage issue or does it mean there is something more serious wrong with the tranmission?
Thanks.
Steve
Steve,

It may also mean that there is a leakage path within the power steering system, possibly at the check valve. Richard Soper posted about this at
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/17/9251.html

Chuck
Steve,
My 330 done the exact same thing.

I replaced part #'s 1,2,4,7,6
It fixed mine. Its like new now. There should not be any play in #7 and #2. I think all the parts cost me about $11.00
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My 332 was creeping very slightly when parked in neutral. I simply loosened the three bolts #25, then adjusted the hydro lever a bit, eliminating the creep.
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I have hydro creep in my 318. If I am traveling forward and put the lever in neutral, it creeps forward. If I am traveling in reverse and put the lever in neutral, it creeps in reverse. I Looked at the components in Drew's post but didn't take anything apart. (a lot of bolts to remove the perforated side panel and I didn't have time last night) The only play I saw was the riveted joint where #23 is fastened to #26. I didn't see any slop in the 1, 7, & 6 pieces.

I also need to look at the linkage where it attaches to the trans to see if there is any play there.
Parts 14 & 11 in the above picture are also wear areas.
Is this diagram the same for "every" tractor? Only open frames? Only closed frames?

The reason I ask is my old 317 is like the one guys. It creeps whichever way you were last going. This really leads me towards wear. The 318 only creeps a little sometimes after coming from forward. This leads me towards improper neutral adjustment. This is all speculation from what I have read, I haven't taken anything apart.
Thanks to Chuck and Drew for pointing me in the right direction. I've ordered the linkage parts. Unfortunately, some of them were not in stock, so it will be a few days before I get them. I'll let you know how it works out.
Thanks again.
Steve
Scooter
I am not sure if this will work for closed frame tractors, maybe someone with some experience with them might chime in. Steve, let us know if it fixes it, My symptoms on my 330 were the exact same as yours. Hope it helps
2
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!
NO MORE CREEP!!!

I changed parts 1, 2, 4, 7, 11, and 14. Here are pictures of 7 and 14 showing some major wear. Hydro works perfect.





(Message edited by treed on February 06, 2012)
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Steve Hunter,

Your post number 10 above is priceless.......

There is no such thing as hydro creep......

I want to scream this.....again....

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS HYDRO CREEP....


Replace the worn out parts......should be the mantra for these posts.......

All too often parts #11 and #14 are over looked.
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Steve
Glad to see that fixed your problems.
I suppose some of the same parts could be causing the creep on my 400. Do you have any idea which parts may be the culprit on this behemoth?
The source of creep in my 318 was worn rivets (#24 in Drew's diagram). I noticed movement between the lever and the bracket attached to the lever. When I removed the rivets, I could see small grooves worn in the rivets from the metal lever.

The holes in the lever were still round as were the holes in the sheet metal brackets. All I need to do is buy a couple of rivets and re-rivet it. The main pivot bolt and the linkage (#11) was fine and I didn't see any other worn parts.

I measured the rivet diameter and it was 0.266" so I think it is a 1/4" rivet that expanded when it was installed. I think the length is about 5/8". The John Deere dealer didn't have them in stock but I think I can get something at the hardware store that will work.
Kevin,

Rivets for a mower section on a cutter bar might work for this.....I have several on hand....These are 1/4" x varying lengths, and will expand to fill the hole as you install them.
My local John Deere dealer did not have the rivets. He said he'd need to order 200 of them... when I balked, he called the John Deere farm implement dealer a few miles away. That guy had 143 on hand! 42 cents each plus tax for a grand total of 89 cents! The part no. was 16H658.

While I was picking up the rivets, I asked them if they had a rivet tool and/or hydraulic press to rivet it together. The guy came back with the handle riveted to the bracket for me. He just used a hammer to peen the rivets - I would have preferred to have it done in a press but he didn't charge me to peen it.

Now, I am going to put it back together - hopefully the creep is gone or at the minimum, all I need to do is adjust the hydrostat linkage.
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