I broke it!
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The John Deere factory ones are friction welded at their joint and use a solid shaft ; therefore , it is welded all the way through 100% . They are much stronger than an outer circumference weld , like that home-made one you have there . It looks like they used thin-wall tubing with a plug to bridge the two ends , and then put one pass on it only . Now you know why they are so much cheaper than Deere Originals .
If that is for a 318-322-332 , I have really good used one I can put up for sale in the classified for you and hold out for you .
Dave .
If that is for a 318-322-332 , I have really good used one I can put up for sale in the classified for you and hold out for you .
Dave .
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3,271 Posts
Guessing that is a 420 from the deck hangers and the rear side shield mess. I bought an ebay one last year and so far it is working. But I saved the old to fix someday.
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1,001 Posts
Hello Jason
It was Nice of David to offer up a Good factory power steering cylinder but That can be re-welded to work again. It is Important to grind down both End's to a 45 Degree angle so that the Root pass of welding rod can penetrate the center plug fully. I would cover the rest of the cylinder rod with a few wrap's of good duct Tape before welding on it to avoid any splatter from the weld sticking to the area of the cylinder rod that goes inside the cylinder packing as splatter would ruin the packing seal of the cylinder. If using a stick welder I would suggest using 1/8" E-7018 Rod laying down a single root pass then a slight weave pass of weld to finish it up extending the weld weave pass out a little further than the 45 Degree angle made for the root pass of weld. I hope this helps, Kurt
It was Nice of David to offer up a Good factory power steering cylinder but That can be re-welded to work again. It is Important to grind down both End's to a 45 Degree angle so that the Root pass of welding rod can penetrate the center plug fully. I would cover the rest of the cylinder rod with a few wrap's of good duct Tape before welding on it to avoid any splatter from the weld sticking to the area of the cylinder rod that goes inside the cylinder packing as splatter would ruin the packing seal of the cylinder. If using a stick welder I would suggest using 1/8" E-7018 Rod laying down a single root pass then a slight weave pass of weld to finish it up extending the weld weave pass out a little further than the 45 Degree angle made for the root pass of weld. I hope this helps, Kurt
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753 Posts
It's a little hard to understand why that cylinder shaft should have broken there, even though it was an inferior design. There should only be tension and compression forces on the shaft, against which it should have been OK. On the other hand, if there were any SIDEWAYS forces, I can see where there might be trouble.
Was the connection of the shaft end to the steering arm able to swivel freely, without binding? If not, extension or retraction of the hydraulic actuator shaft would twist the shaft sideways, buckling it.
Was the connection of the shaft end to the steering arm able to swivel freely, without binding? If not, extension or retraction of the hydraulic actuator shaft would twist the shaft sideways, buckling it.
David,
Thank you for the offer but fortunately I still had the old one and put it back on. The reason I replaced it was because of wear in the joints. It turned out the joints on the new cylinder were not much tighter than the old one.
Travis,
You are right it is a 420. Sorry I didn't post that info from the start.
Kurt,
Now that I have a MIG welder, I think I will find some better ends and weld them on this one. I have read a few threads on the repair. Thanks for the Duct Tape tip.
Jay,
I think you are on to something. A few weeks ago while performing maintenance on the tractor to get it ready for lawn mowing season I noticed the tractor would turn more to the left than the right. In an effort to correct this I removed the steering arm from the left spindle and moved it a spline over so it would turn more equally to the left and right. I was not able to get it to turn the same amount each way.
So after the ebay cylinder broke I put the OEM one back on and took a close look at the steering. What I found was that because I moved the steering arm a spline over (to try and equalize the steering) the shaft of the steering cylinder would contact the steering arm when turning all the way to the left. So that slight contact every time I turned to the left probably caused the sideways force that broke the weld. I moved the steering arm back a spline so that it doesn't contact the shaft, but it now turns more to the left than the right. Is that normal for this tractor?
Thank you for the offer but fortunately I still had the old one and put it back on. The reason I replaced it was because of wear in the joints. It turned out the joints on the new cylinder were not much tighter than the old one.
Travis,
You are right it is a 420. Sorry I didn't post that info from the start.
Kurt,
Now that I have a MIG welder, I think I will find some better ends and weld them on this one. I have read a few threads on the repair. Thanks for the Duct Tape tip.
Jay,
I think you are on to something. A few weeks ago while performing maintenance on the tractor to get it ready for lawn mowing season I noticed the tractor would turn more to the left than the right. In an effort to correct this I removed the steering arm from the left spindle and moved it a spline over so it would turn more equally to the left and right. I was not able to get it to turn the same amount each way.
So after the ebay cylinder broke I put the OEM one back on and took a close look at the steering. What I found was that because I moved the steering arm a spline over (to try and equalize the steering) the shaft of the steering cylinder would contact the steering arm when turning all the way to the left. So that slight contact every time I turned to the left probably caused the sideways force that broke the weld. I moved the steering arm back a spline so that it doesn't contact the shaft, but it now turns more to the left than the right. Is that normal for this tractor?
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753 Posts
Jason -
Since mower decks discharge out the right side, I can imagine that it would be more useful to have a tighter turning radius for left turns, than for right. But that's just a guess on my part.
Since mower decks discharge out the right side, I can imagine that it would be more useful to have a tighter turning radius for left turns, than for right. But that's just a guess on my part.
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1,001 Posts
Hello Jason
It will work using your MIG welder but be careful as many times a MIG welder provides Much more splatter than a stick welder. You can still use the duct tape idea, don't be afraid to wrap the cylinder several times with it that will narrow the chances of having weld splatter get on that cylinder and if you have some MIG splatter spray I would suggest you cover the duct tape with it. I have tried axle grease in the past and sometimes the splatter will be more than the axle grease can Take and you will end up with some weld splatter stuck on the steel. Keep us posted on how it all worked out. Regards, Kurt
It will work using your MIG welder but be careful as many times a MIG welder provides Much more splatter than a stick welder. You can still use the duct tape idea, don't be afraid to wrap the cylinder several times with it that will narrow the chances of having weld splatter get on that cylinder and if you have some MIG splatter spray I would suggest you cover the duct tape with it. I have tried axle grease in the past and sometimes the splatter will be more than the axle grease can Take and you will end up with some weld splatter stuck on the steel. Keep us posted on how it all worked out. Regards, Kurt
Thanks for the tips guys!
I still would like to know if these 420 tractors should turn equally from the left to the right. When the wheel is turned all the way to the left the spindle will touch a stop on the axle but when turned all the way to the right it stops before the spindle touches the axle. I have a feeling the right spindle may be bent. I replaced the left one due to wear so I know that one is good.
I still would like to know if these 420 tractors should turn equally from the left to the right. When the wheel is turned all the way to the left the spindle will touch a stop on the axle but when turned all the way to the right it stops before the spindle touches the axle. I have a feeling the right spindle may be bent. I replaced the left one due to wear so I know that one is good.
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5,087 Posts
turn left is tighter than right since MCS or chute is on right side when sitting on tractor
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