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Above the little peg. If you start the tractors pto with the belt rubbing on the square peg you’ll smoke the belt instantly. For the tension I put the adjustment indicator right in the middle of the mule drive window. Or almost as tight as the screw will go. If you grab the belt and yank on it it should flex back and forth a couple inches. You’d be surprised how much the belts whip and flap back and forth when runningwide open, both the pto and deck belts. It’s amazing they stay on at all!!!
 

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The belt should always be on the pulley side of any guides/pegs. The belt tension is set to the mid range of the tension gauge indicator on the front of the mule drive panel as seen here and in the manual I provided to you earlier, and to INITIAL for a new belt:
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My rule of thumb is to tighten the mule drive knob until I have about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of deflection in the belt between the mule drive and drive pulley on the deck, which puts the indicator close to the middle of its travel...on a 322 with 38-inch deck.
 

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That's pretty beat up! You can still use it, just check the belt tension with your hand to see when it feels tight enough. I had a 'small engine mechanic' guy looking at my 300 once years ago and he told me my Mule Drive needed to be rebuilt, not sure why he said that.?? It must have been something about the way it looked.
 
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Loosen the knob quite a bit, feed your belt through the drive and seat the mule drive in the tractor frame notches, make sure the belt is in the pulleys and inside the pegs on the drive and drape the belt loosely over the pto pulley. Carefully thread the belt over the deck pulley and inside the keeper bars/pegs on the deck...you may have to take the belt off the pto pulley to do this. Hold onto the belt facing the pto pulley and feed the belt into that pulley groove...you may have to turn the pulley by hand to get the belt over the top and seated in the pulley groove. Then start tightening the knob while eyeballing the belt to make sure it stays on the drive and deck pulleys. As you tighten the knob you'll see the pulley on right side of the drive move. Keep tightening the knob until the belt gets taut...then check for 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection on the belt when you push it with your finger/thumb about 1/2 way between the drive pulleys and the deck pulley...keep checking/tightening until the belt moves that much at that point when pushing on the belt with your thumb/finger. This should get you going until you can replace that beat up mule drive with a good, used one...they show up on the auction site regularly, and in the Classifieds on this site. Make sure your belt isn't twisted multiple times...or it will get eaten or slip in the pulleys...and squeal like a stuck pig.
Jeez, now I want to go mess with/check the belt & tension on the 322...just fer fun! Bob's yer uncle!
 

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That's pretty beat up! You can still use it, just check the belt tension with your hand to see when it feels tight enough. I had a 'small engine mechanic' guy looking at my 300 once years ago and he told me my Mule Drive needed to be rebuilt, not sure why he said that.?? It must have been something about the way it looked.
Yeah, at least he has a readable face plate on the mule drive even though the indicator bar is gone...is that what you mean by "lever?"
 

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Loosen the knob quite a bit, feed your belt through the drive and seat the mule drive in the tractor frame notches, make sure the belt is in the pulleys and inside the pegs on the drive and drape the belt loosely over the pto pulley. Carefully thread the belt over the deck pulley and inside the keeper bars/pegs on the deck...you may have to take the belt off the pto pulley to do this. Hold onto the belt facing the pto pulley and feed the belt into that pulley groove...you may have to turn the pulley by hand to get the belt over the top and seated in the pulley groove. Then start tightening the knob while eyeballing the belt to make sure it stays on the drive and deck pulleys. As you tighten the knob you'll see the pulley on right side of the drive move. Keep tightening the knob until the belt gets taut...then check for 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection on the belt when you push it with your finger/thumb about 1/2 way between the drive pulleys and the deck pulley...keep checking/tightening until the belt moves that much at that point when pushing on the belt with your thumb/finger. This should get you going until you can replace that beat up mule drive with a good, used one...they show up on the auction site regularly, and in the Classifieds on this site. Make sure your belt isn't twisted multiple times...or it will get eaten or slip in the pulleys...and squeal like a stuck pig.
Jeez, now I want to go mess with/check the belt & tension on the 322...just fer fun! Bob's yer uncle!
Yeah, at least he has a readable face plate on the mule drive even though the indicator bar is gone...is that what you mean by "lever?"
The bar that goes through the slot in the face plate. Does it look like the belt is on correctly?
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Another quick check of belt tension is the position of the pulleys on the mule. The belt should be relatively close to running straight down from the PTO pulley.

The other item is, set belt tension with the deck in the raised position. Kinda important.
 
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It’s been my experience that the tensioner is almost as tight as it can get for the proper tension. If I didn’t have an indicator I’d tighten it as far as I could till it bottomed out and then back off five full turns. But that’s just me.
 
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