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Mine doesn't have the lever.
I have three mule drives, none have the indicator rod. One thing I look for is whether the two pulleys on the mule drive are about the same height.Never had an issue with that setting and I have cut some pretty tall grass.
 
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has anybody ever managed the fender pan without a helper? i just did but almost passed out doing it :eek:
I have a bunch, it sucks. Best to remove the seat and all that first, and the lowest screw on each side of the pedestal tower for additional clearance. It is doable without though. If you jack of the rear and take the tires off, it's a lot easier too. I'll admit, I've done that exactly once because I'm lazy. I've accepted my fate that the wife is tired of helping me with it

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I also remove the seat and the springs as a unit and then pull it up over the gas cap and let it slide downward towards the floor, I put a piece of cardboard or a rag on the floor so it does not get scratched.
 
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I have a bunch, it sucks. Best to remove the seat and all that first, and the lowest screw on each side of the pedestal tower for additional clearance. It is doable without though. If you jack of the rear and take the tires off, it's a lot easier too. I'll admit, I've done that exactly once because I'm lazy. I've accepted my fate that the wife is tired of helping me with it

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ok cool man ill remember that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I didnt turn the blades on yet. I've tightened the jam nuts on the mule drive thing with the j pins too much. The belt is really tight. How much should those nuts be tightened?
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See my reply to your question on the PM I sent you. I will try to cut and past it here to make sure this thread gets the information.

LEVEL the deck properly first, and only then install and tension the belt!!
I don't know how may threads might show when the deck is properly leveled (and there were several versions of the front draft arms, so it would be indeterminate anyway...) Some used a cast yoke different than what you show.​


Below are a couple of examples as shown in the PC1935 -- yours is most like the one on the left, but still a bit different...​
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Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I'm gathering that the deck adjusters on the mule drive as shown, should be about where they were before i put the ****ty belt on. I smoked my belt after following the directions the best I could. also the belt that was on it before i put the ****ty ebay belt on was not the right belt.
 

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Did you or the PO move the yokes on the draft plate? If not certain about the PO, check the keeper nuts behind the yokes...you'll know if they been loosened since leaving the factory. When the yokes are correct and the deck is level, the front of the deck should be 1/4" or so lower than rear of deck...riding on the hangers, deck wheels not on ground/pavement. The blade height tool, about $12, is worth having/buying. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
i was the one that shortened the slack on the mule drive. ok thanks ill get one. should i adjust it back to the original setting? ill make sure for the next belt that its routed like the one thats in 332 guys post and ill make sure its a deere belt not a junk one off ebay
 

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i was the one that shortened the slack on the mule drive. ok thanks ill get one. should i adjust it back to the original setting? ill make sure for the next belt that its routed like the one thats in 332 guys post and ill make sure its a deere belt not a junk one off ebay
Meaning you changed the yoke settings on the draft plate, like for a different deck? If so, I'd adjust them until the front of the deck is slightly lower than the rear of the deck, wheels off the ground. Use plenty of penetrating oil on the threads, old toasty draft plate arms WILL twist. Get the deck attitude right, level it on smooth surface with even tire pressure using the adjustable deck hanger strap, route the belt and tighten until you have about 1/2" deflection in the belt halfway from the mule drive to the driven deck pulley. Bob's yer uncle! :p
 
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