[Zack]

Hello guys! Just wanted to introduce myself and my new project 317.
[URL="http://s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd242/Froggerz2806/JD%20317%20project/?action=view&current=2009-06-08039.jpg[/IMG]<img>[/URL]

It's a 1980 model and has been repowered with a Kohler Magnum 18hp motor at some point so I guess I have avoided the headaches with the 17hp Kohler motors that they came with.

It is currently not running and there are some issues that need to be resolved to get it running.
1. Starter (I can handle)
2. Solenoid (I can handle)
3. the CV's in the drive shaft are shot (Can this be rebuilt or do I have to replace the whole shaft?)
4. PTO clutch? needs to be replaced in the mule drive (Not sure what I'm doing there but will try to get it running before I look at it)
Of course I'm gonna go ahead and replace the oil in the engine and hydrostatic drive before I get going.

I appreciate your patience while I try to muddle through this project and look forward to yall's post.

Thanks, Zack

 

[jdalchemist]

Hi Zach,
Welcome to the group. I can see how you will be spending the summer... Here are some comments and pointers.
Starter and solenoid: it is very common to have connection problems, wire breaks, bad key switch or pto switch, key switch wiring harness corrosion, etc. in the circuit feeding the solenoid. Are the battery and cables good? Have you verified a bad starter or solenoid with direct/bypass connections? Here is a recent thread with a 317 wiring diagram and solution of a related "starter" problem, http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/17/10388.html#POST11325

Driveshaft: if a failing driveshaft is caught early, it may be repairable. However, most are too far gone, http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/335/123791.html?1163820738

PTO clutch: Your pictures do not show a pto clutch on the tractor, nor a mule drive or mower deck. Have you already removed these?

Good luck,
Harold

 

[Zack]

Thanks for the reply Harold!

The post on the solenoid is completely broken off and I will double check the starter before getting started. Thanks for the link.

On the driveshaft one of the yokes is missing a chunk of cast iron but I have seen a post or two about replacing them on the same shaft.

Yes the deck and mule drives are already off and I don't plan on tackling those until I get the tractor up and running.

Zack

 

[Zack]

I finally got it fired off Saturday with the help of my brother! I replaced the solenoid and starter and put new new oil in. Hooked the wires back up and turn the switch... nothing but did get it turned by arcing across the solenoid. Finally got the gas primed into the carb and got it running pretty good but it surges a bit while idling. Is that normal or do I need to adjust the governor in some way? Worked on it Sunday trying to figure out the deal w/ the wiring turns out the PO installed the PTO switch upside down.

So onto the PTO/mule drive section. It seems that the PTO was taken completely apart and is in several pieces. My brother told me the field winding coil (magnet portion) probably need to be replaced. Is there any way that I can test this on a meter to find out if bad?

I'm also keeping an eye out for a drive shaft.

 

[sflem849]

My PTO switch is upside down, too! I would guess you could flip it the other way around OR flip the wires to the opposite positions on the switch.

If it surges you can move the springs up front to different positions. Get the tech manual free online. It tells you which way you need to go to solve the problem.

You can ohm it out. IIRC it is 4.5-5.4 ish, but I am not positive (that may only be for my 318 pto) I have a 317 as well, but no problems in that area yet.

 

[Zack]

Where can I get this "tech manual" at?

 

[vinnie110]

The service manual is available from John Deere through their JDParts website. The CD version costs about $50. It is well worth getting if you plan to keep the tractor.

 

[Zack]

Scooter said it was free. I'm all about that but may have cough up the dinero if it's not.

 

[sflem849]

Kohler is free - http://www.kohlerengines.com/manuals/landing.htm
John Deere - BIG Dollars

 

[Zack]

Thanks Scooter!
Wishful thinking on the JD manuals.

 

[Jimnjo]

Zack,
Don't buy the expensive clutch coil until you check you old one out. If you don't have one, a cheap multi-meter is handy to have. On the k series Kohler tractors, the clutch coil should ohm out somewhere close to 3.4 to 3.8, I don't know if later tractors like yours are the same or not, but I'm someone here knows!!

Jim

Jim

 

[Zack]

I did ohm it out and it shows ok I guess. Does it create an electromagnetic field and push the two metal plates together? What keeps them from slipping? My brain is not comprehending the workings of this thing. Is there some way to test this thing mechanically. I tried to put these things back on it yesterday but the shaft and the mating surfaces had light rust making it difficult to slide them onto the shaft. Guess I'll use some sandpaper/emory cloth and take some of it off and try again.

I really appreciate every bodies help!

 

[Zack]

Also the plastic/rubber that coats the winding's face is cracking and missing some pieces. Will that affect it's performance?

 

[chuckv]

Zack,

Here is an excerpt from the section on clutch service in the TM1590 which covers the 318 and 420 and is a very similar clutch. It gives a sort of functional test...

Note that step 12 states that the coil should be inspected for damage. Missing potting compound on the winding will somewhat adversely effect the heat transfer out of the coil during operation...you may want to review the FAQ thread on winding PTO coils for some idea if you can repot/repair your existing coil.
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/96042/119087.html?1163258214

...hope this is of some help

Chuck

 

[drudeski]

I have a 1982 108 that I am thinking about changing belts on. The Owner's Manual shows how to change the deck belts but not the drive belt. Do I have to drop the PTO to replace this belt? Also, is there a replacement powerplant for the Briggs 8hp? My runs great, but I am curious.

 

[T-Mo]

Maybe this will help, taken from the tech manual.

http://www.wfmachines.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=121332&g2_imageViewsIndex=1

 

[bo2009]

Don,
Have fun crawling around under there. Terry's post is a big help but remember that they can differ, ie: my 1980 111 has the "tensioner" pulley near the pto - my 1985 116 does not. When I replaced the drive belt on the 116, had to make sure (via ser. no.) I bought the correct one.
About the only way to find a drop in replacement engine for these types of tractors anymore is to find a NOS or one that's used. Bobo