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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1974 H3 that has been in the family since new! I've had a tiller, snow blower, and mower deck that I use yearly. I just purchased a 4-way plow for it. Problem is I can get it to go up and down with no problem, but not left to right at all. I have a cylinder lockout link for the rocket shaft cylinder, but still nothing. I have switched hoses to other side to check the plow cylinders and both work fine on the one side, but not the other. I'm at a loss as everything else works as it should. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

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You’re positive that you’re using the correct lever? (Only asking to rule out that option) And your positive that no one in your family has messed with that set of scv’s?
 

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The 54 blade has a lock pin to keep it from rotating. It's got a hook on on the right side (from the operators seat) and is spring loaded to the locked position. Either drive the spring pin from the locking rod or remove the entire bracket. Bob
 

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But it works on the other SCV so that wouldn’t be it.
 

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You’re positive that you’re using the correct lever? (Only asking to rule out that option) And your positive that no one in your family has messed with that set of scv’s?
Yes, correct lever. Not sure what you mean by scv's. I thought maybe hydro lines running to front on that one side was block as that side had never been used. I removed lines from spool and blew lines out...nothing. I even started tractor with lines disconnected from spool and moved lever to see if anything would come out of spool, but nothing. Again, other side and rocket shaft cylinder work perfect. Completely puzzled still.
 

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SCV is Selective Control Valve, so the valve and lines for that set of ports. Also each level has a separate valve/SCV.
@Paul F ‘s 317 had a set unhooked because a line was ruptured and rather than be replaced was crimped.
If the lever moves I would think the valve isn’t stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The lever does move. Just curious where that valve would be for that port/lever.
 

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The lever does move. Just curious where that valve would be for that port/lever.
Under the fender pan/steering tower.
 

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Just to be clear, the right side quick connects are for the up,down cylinder. They are controlled by the inside lever. There is a float position for this valve. When the lever is pushed all the way forward you feel the valve stick by way of a detent in that valve. As vbosh said the valve is probably stuck from not being used. A very common problem. Sometimes it can be freed up with penetrating oil and working the lever. Sometimes you have to disassemble the valve. Good luck.
 

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If I’m not mistaken it has already been said the valve lever moves, which means the valve isn’t stuck and that isn’t the problem. Otherwise the lever would also be jammed.
That is unless my understanding of how these valves and the lever work is wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
View attachment 261198

Follow the lines back and you can determine the proper lever for that port.
I believe it's the middle one that runs the angle cylinder on plow. Does JD still make parts (o-rings, springs,etc)?
I just talked to my brother that had the 140 before passing it onto me. He said levers were frozen prior to giving it to me. They move, but not the greatest. I guess I'll start with levers and pulling them out and cleaning/lubing. Then move onto spool and pulling it to see if that one spool valve is sticking. I feel problem must be with spool if everything else works perfect. It doesn't look like an easy task.
Just to be clear, the right side quick connects are for the up,down cylinder. They are controlled by the inside lever. There is a float position for this valve. When the lever is pushed all the way forward you feel the valve stick by way of a detent in that valve. As vbosh said the valve is probably stuck from not being used. A very common problem. Sometimes it can be freed up with penetrating oil and working the lever. Sometimes you have to disassemble the valve. Good luck.
I have levers identified correctly. Thanks for clarifying. Any suggestions on lube to try and free up valve before disassembling?
 

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I believe it's the middle one that runs the angle cylinder on plow. Does JD still make parts (o-rings, springs,etc)?
I just talked to my brother that had the 140 before passing it onto me. He said levers were frozen prior to giving it to me. They move, but not the greatest. I guess I'll start with levers and pulling them out and cleaning/lubing. Then move onto spool and pulling it to see if that one spool valve is sticking. I feel problem must be with spool if everything else works perfect. It doesn't look like an easy task.

I have levers identified correctly. Thanks for clarifying. Any suggestions on lube to try and free up valve before disassembling?
And you checked that no one in your family did any “fixing” on the lines? Easy to look at them and potentially save a disassembly.
 

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You must have the H3 valve assembly. Mine is the H2. Then yes, the center lever may control the up,down for the blade. My float position was seized up as well when I bought my tractor. As I recall, I was able to direct the penetrating oil spray right up to the valve from underneath. Between that and working the lever back and forth many times I eventually felt the detent begin to work. Once it was freed up I've never had the problem again.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
And you checked that no one in your family did any “fixing” on the lines? Easy to look at them and potentially save a disassembly.
Yes. The 140 only had a blower, mower and tiller. The one set of hydros in front were never used and tractor was bought new the summer of '74.
You must have the H3 valve assembly. Mine is the H2. Then yes, the center lever may control the up,down for the blade. My float position was seized up as well when I bought my tractor. As I recall, I was able to direct the penetrating oil spray right up to the valve from underneath. Between that and working the lever back and forth many times I eventually felt the detent begin to work. Once it was freed up I've never had the problem again.
I'll do the same next week when I have some more time.
 

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Then in that case it would have to be the valve.
Or on some weird off chance the coupler it self on the tractor could’ve seized.
 

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I would try spraying them with blaster while moving the lever. My 332 had sticky valves when I bought it, although they still worked. I spray them every year. It would be worth a try.
Tom
 

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The 3 way valve itself is not complicated. I have been inside of mine and replaced all the seals. I have a 3 way off of a 318 and it's basically the same (maybe a little larger) but operates the same way.

Mine is set up (the 318 is the same) with the inner and outter being a plain L-R, U-D and the center having the float detent. Each valve or circuit, is really just a sliding groved pin sealed up with o-rings.

I would guess you have an issue with the lever or link that goes from the lever to the valve. You may want to look at the lever that's giving you trouble with the battery out of the way to see what's going on.

I would be very surprised if there was an issue with the valve itself, they are pretty simple and very robust. Other than the valves getting sticky or an o-ring going bad, there's just not much to go wrong.

If you pull the battery and tray, you will get a great birds eye view of the links and all of the lines. That should give you a much better idea of what's going on.
 
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