When you say hard shutdown, what do you mean?
Do you mean noise, instantaneous stopping, or
diesel'ing, grinding, or maybe something else?
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Do you mean noise, instantaneous stopping, or
diesel'ing, grinding, or maybe something else?
JD 300 hard shut down
Recently installed a new Kohler K341 AQS in my JD 300. It runs great, but shuts down hard. I am shutting it down at half throttle. I tried adjusting the spring on the governer one hole, but it didn't seem to make a difference. Any suggestions?
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
I let mine idle for a little bit before I shut it down. I never shut any of them down at half throttle.
Are you having trouble getting it to idle down?
Are you having trouble getting it to idle down?
When I shut it down it comes to a stop with a "clunk" at the end that shakes the tractor. It could be dieseling...sometimes a little bit of gas smell. I looked at the carb and the throttle plate seems to be opening and closing properly. When running it seems like it responds O.K. to speed changes in the throttle. I ordered a Tach/Hourmeter today to make sure the engine is running in the proper speed ranges.
I put mine in minimum throttle and let it idle for a few seconds before shut down. A "clunk" would sure make me uncomfortable too.
I would guess that either you don't have an Anti-Dieseling Solenoid, or you need to adjust it. These are to be adjusted until the engine idles between 2000 and 2200 RPM or until engine idles smoothly. More about this in the owners manual & service manual.
Again
More---
From the book.
An anti-dieseling solenoid is used to ensure the closing of the throttle during shut-down of the K341 AQS engine. This prevents dieseling.
5. To set idle speed (with the engine running) move throttle lever to "SLOW" speed position. Loosen jam nut, Figure 9, on the anti-dieseling solenoid. Rotate solenoid left or right until 2000-2200 rpm idle speed is attained. Tighten jam nut to lock solenoid in position.
NOTE: Make sure idle speed screw, Fig. 9, on carburetor is turned out until it no longer contacts the throttle bracket. This allows the throttle plate to close.
More---
From the book.
An anti-dieseling solenoid is used to ensure the closing of the throttle during shut-down of the K341 AQS engine. This prevents dieseling.
5. To set idle speed (with the engine running) move throttle lever to "SLOW" speed position. Loosen jam nut, Figure 9, on the anti-dieseling solenoid. Rotate solenoid left or right until 2000-2200 rpm idle speed is attained. Tighten jam nut to lock solenoid in position.
NOTE: Make sure idle speed screw, Fig. 9, on carburetor is turned out until it no longer contacts the throttle bracket. This allows the throttle plate to close.
John, I was wondering if you have or could take a
picture of your properly adjusted anti-dieseling
solenoid? In my repair manual the picture is
rather grainy. I'm having a dieseling problem.
The thing I'm trying to find is a decent picture
of the bottom of the solenoid where there is a
plunger thingy. The plunger thingy looks to be
about an inch long and the diameter of a pencil.
I can't tell if that plunger is supposed to be in
contact with anything. On my engine the plunger
does not have physical contact with anything. I
recently looked up the price of the solenoid on
the jdparts site and a new one was around $150.
I'd hate to buy a new one if the one I have is
just not properly installed. How would I know if
the solenoid isn't working properly? -gordo
picture of your properly adjusted anti-dieseling
solenoid? In my repair manual the picture is
rather grainy. I'm having a dieseling problem.
The thing I'm trying to find is a decent picture
of the bottom of the solenoid where there is a
plunger thingy. The plunger thingy looks to be
about an inch long and the diameter of a pencil.
I can't tell if that plunger is supposed to be in
contact with anything. On my engine the plunger
does not have physical contact with anything. I
recently looked up the price of the solenoid on
the jdparts site and a new one was around $150.
I'd hate to buy a new one if the one I have is
just not properly installed. How would I know if
the solenoid isn't working properly? -gordo
Follow the directions in the book.
Here's a page from my manual.
http://www.wfmachines.com/gallery/album325/AdjustingK341_Carb_001?full=1
Can't get a photo of mine today.
Here's a page from my manual.
http://www.wfmachines.com/gallery/album325/AdjustingK341_Carb_001?full=1
Can't get a photo of mine today.
I'm more convinced now that something is wrong with the installation of my solenoid. The plunger surely must come into contact with something, else there would be no point to adjusting the depth of it with the jam nut. The plunger is on the opposite end of the solenoid wire ('D" in your man page). Hmmm. I bought my JD400 from someone who did a rebuild of the engine. Perhaps there is a part missing in my throttle lever, which is supposed to make contact with the solenoid plunger? Q: Is your solenoid plunger spring loaded? When you push it in, does it spring back out again when released? thanks, -gordo
I found a bunch of different pictures of how it is supposed to look and a tab on the throttle lever was bent away. Got everything straightened out and it worked properly the very first try.
Ray, when shutting off my 300 it always would shake the tractor right before the engine stopped turning. It was that way the 8 years I owned it, I bet if you unhooked the drive shaft the problem would go away, I think the shake at shut down is the hydro pump not being able to turn it's next revolution (because of low rpm) so the sudden stop shakes the tractor
I adjusted the fuel/air and idle speed adjustment by ear and the problem went away. When I get that Tach/hourmeter I ordered, I'll double check the RPMs and adjust if necessary.
Ray - can you give more info on this Tach/Hourmeter? I'm wishing for a tach to check idle and top end speeds on an engine. Havn't a clue as to where to go or what to get.
Thanks,
JQ
Thanks,
JQ
The tach/Hourmeter I ordered was from www.tinytach.com. The part# is TTN226NR-4C. It is set up for Kohler K series engines and it was $36.95.
Thanks Ray - very interesting. May have to spend some money.
JQ
JQ
I am interested in updating to a 445. Currently I have a 318. When I blow snow I use a blade on my 3 Pt to clean up.
The 445 the Snowthrower uses a Hyd chute control. On my 318 the chute is controlled manually so a 2 stage Hyd system works fine. If I understand the 445 correctly it has a 2 stage Hyd systems as well how do you work around this?
The 445 the Snowthrower uses a Hyd chute control. On my 318 the chute is controlled manually so a 2 stage Hyd system works fine. If I understand the 445 correctly it has a 2 stage Hyd systems as well how do you work around this?
John can you operate your 3 Pt independent of the Chute control?
I am wondering how to control the rear blade when I need to turn the chute.
I am wondering how to control the rear blade when I need to turn the chute.
Ed,
The only way is a lockout switch.I just put one in as I have a 3 point in the back with 6 hanging weights and I did not want that to move up and down also when I was moving my shoot.They are real easy to put in.Took me 20 minutes and I was done.It either locks out the front or the back.
Here is one on evilbay....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JOHN-DEERE-425-445-455-ROCKSHAFT-HYD-LOCKOUT-VALVE-/150978935271?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23270bb9e7
The only way is a lockout switch.I just put one in as I have a 3 point in the back with 6 hanging weights and I did not want that to move up and down also when I was moving my shoot.They are real easy to put in.Took me 20 minutes and I was done.It either locks out the front or the back.
Here is one on evilbay....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JOHN-DEERE-425-445-455-ROCKSHAFT-HYD-LOCKOUT-VALVE-/150978935271?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23270bb9e7
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
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