[lzamp11]

Hi all, I just picked up a 314 , I know the vibration is common with the kohlers ect but this 314 seems to jump around like it was a 16 hp instead of a 14. . It has new motor mounts and Iam replacing the carb shortly after a rebuild so Ill see if that makes a differance. Ive had a few 140s that werent this bad, just wondering if anyone else has had this problem with the 314s. Alas has anyone repowered a 314 with a twin?

 

[mcain]

Sounds like the counter weights are removed from the block. And to me it would not be worth it to go to a twin as a lot of mods would have to be done.

 

[tommyhawk]

Lou, if the 140's were not rubber mounted, you would notice a lot more shake from a 314. Not as much vibration though. That said, if you notice the throttle shaft/housing is badly worn, it shakes more at low idle. Check the drive shaft at both ends for wear and looseness. No way to see much of the flywheel fins, but one missing fin will add a lot-o-shake. Make sure the engine to engine mount bolts are all there and tight. I don't think the original engine would have had balance gears.

Just my opinion, but a twin cylinder engine in a 314 would be a much appreciated upgrade for a "worker" machine.

tommyhawk

 

[woodpecker41]

Mitchell for information purposes rubber mounted JD Kohler engines didn't come with counter balanced engines. Roger

 

[lzamp11]

Thanks all. A friend sugested getting rid of the rubber mounts and going with mod solid mounts but Iam not sure that would solve the shaking with a driveshaft mounted single kohler. Iam considering a twin though after the holidays because this might be my mowing tractor. Its a nice tractogh someone did a good resto job on it and Iam considering keeping it as an adition to my jd fleet. Iam puzzled about one thing with it. It came with a 49 blower that when mounted allways seems to be 3" lower on the left side, Cant see any problem by looking at it but Iam thinking its been tweeked somehow. Lol-- my next prob once I get it running better.

 

[charms]

Roger, the early 300s to ser # 80048 had balance gears.

Lou, definitely check the driveshaft, and the fan or pto behind the hydro.

 

[burned300]

I've seen the driveshaft joint(s) ready to come apart shake these pretty bad

 

[Mark A. Miller]

Lou: check the drive shaft joints very carefully for loose bolts AND using matching bolts, I use a wooden dowel rod resting on a fixed point like the frame rail in the front, with the fender deck removed, run at idle AND at WOT. set dowel on the driveshaft (not on the couplings) if the dowel bounces off/up it will rub a spot on the shaft slightly. this will be the "high spot to use for the re adjustment. also remember to do this near but not on the couplings at both ends. many times, this will be the biggest noticeable change you can make to the vibration on the 14hpK. remember it is NOT meant to idle for only warm up and shut downs. This engine is made to work at constant throttle. Also pay particular attn. to the roll pin at rear of driveshaft, they can and will wallow out the hole in the trans input shaft if not tight. it should not wiggle by hand. If it has been changed over to the new style that has set screws on either side instead of roll pin, make sure set screws are inserted and tightened equal.Hope this helps. Mark

 

[lzamp11]

Thanks Mark, Cliff, Darrin and everyone else in this thread. I do appreciate the help. Ill deffinetly check the drivshaft next.
Lou