[beanyurza]

Hello,

I have a 317 with a KT17 series 2 engine in it that I rebuilt a few years back. It was the first time I rebuilt an engine by myself so I had little go on as to whether it was done right or not. I followed the instructions in the Kohler manual and asked a lot of questions here. [Thanks again to all who answered]. The only thing that I know for sure that may cause a problem is the one valve stem clearance is 0.04" in over the specs given in the book.

I haven't run it much in the past two years about 24 hours of run time (according to the electronic rpm gauge I put on it) just over half snow blowing and the rest mowing the lawn. It still burns oil. I fill it before I start and it smokes for the first 5 minutes or so after starting. It burns about half a quart mowing and when I'm clearing snow (20 minute warm up and about 45 minutes of use ) the oil level drops to the bottom of the dip stick. I posted early this year about how it was losing power the warmer it got while clearing snow. I have triple checked for oil leaks; inspecting the engine and leaving a piece of card bard under it. I found a hydro leak but no oil leak.

Is 24 hours use enough time for the rings to set and oil burning to slow down?

I've been thinking about just admitting that I wasn't skilled enough to rebuild it, buy a new Vanguard engine and be done with it.

Thanks,
Eugene.

 

[ettrick]

Even those we consider skilled had to start as novices. There are some great people here that can help you gain the knowledge you need or want. With a proper rebuild you should use very little oil from the beginning. What did you use to measure the clearances when you did the rebuild? Is there smoke billowing out the exhaust when opening the throttle? or engaging the mower deck?
Dan

 

[JBaker]

Did you bore it, or just re-ring it?

 

[beanyurza]

It smokes most when 1st starting up. When it get under load it smokes until it get back up to speed, not as bad as first start up though.

I used a feeler gauge to measure the clearances.

 

[beanyurza]

Used a cylinder deglazer and a new ring kit.

 

[JBaker]

There you go. Should have bored it.

It is my opinion that the KT and Mag (twins) are not cost effective to totally overhaul. If you "repair" one with the understanding that it may or may not last, I guess that's up to the individual. I'll fix one for myself, but not for others.

 

[ettrick]

I always check the out of round of the cylinder first. It is hard to stop oil burning as the rings cannot seal an oval that is to large. I enjoy doing things myself if i can, so i bought a fowler dial bore gauge. They are not to expensive and you can pay for some tools for your shop by doing the job yourself. You can do a bore job with a rigid hone, but probably only good for a 10 over or less bore.
Dan

 

[beanyurza]

Ah well. I've been going over it this last week or so. It stings the ego to say it but I think I took on too much for my level of expertise. I'm going to blame wanting to do it on the cheap more than my inexperience to soften the blow. Yeah, that's it. Wanting to do cheaply was the problem, not me.

So, I mowed the grass today. After a half hour of mowing there was a trickle of oil coming out of the exhaust. And it still lost power when I got to thick grass. But that's just an aside.

I'm just going to repower it.(SIGH. That's admitting defeat) I take it the B&S Vanguard is the only replacement engine. I'd rather not cut the frame but I will if I have to. I keep reading that I might have to cut off part of the flywheel hub if the drive shaft has been changed. Is there any way to tell if the original drive shaft is in it before buying the engine?

Anyone have any experience with the kits that are for sale from Small Engine Warehouse or Pat's Small Engine Plus? Both are within driving distance from me but Small Engine Warehouse would be about 7-hour round trip.

Eugene.

 

[rwmeyer]

Eugene, I'm not sure of the differences in a 317 with a Series I vs Series II. I just completed re-powering my 317 (Series I) with the SEW B&S Vanguard kit. The engine drops in and bolts up with only a few very minor issues: fuel line about 8" too short, different bolt to hold PTO to crank, dipstick has interference problem w/hood support. I highly approve this re-power kit.

Driveshaft: if your present shaft fits, it will also fit with the re-power kit. I damaged my original shaft (due to my impatience!) and got a new shaft from Deere...new design with zerks...and it fit right in. Bob

 

[bisonfan1]

I am very interested in how the predator 22hp fits in there... Is the charging system up to the task? I know home depot sells one that is 22amp and is identical to the predator. Less than $100 more than the predator.

 

[rwmeyer]

I can't see too much sense in putting a 22hp engine in. So far, I've cut 12"-18" grass with my 18hp & 46 deck, pulled my 5 foot York/landscape rake through my "lawn" and gravel driveway...engine rpm never changed and I couldn't here the engine labor. I think the 18hp is more than enough!! Haven't checked specs on charging system. Bob

 

[bisonfan1]

The predator only comes in 22hp next biggest is 12 I think

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[N2 Tractors]

Some of these modern engines like the Predator are over rated when it comes to HP ratings.