[jimpennycuff]

I have a 1992 JD 318 with P218G Onan engine that isn't getting any spark. I want to test the coil and trigger but can't find any specifications or test procedures for the breakerless ignition in either the JD Technical Manual for the JD 318 or in the Component Technical Manual for Onan engines. Where can I find this info? Thanks, Jim P.

 

[bigr]

Jim,

I don't have the tech info you need, but my experience with the P218G was that one side of the coil failed and the other side still produced spark. I replaced the coil and condenser and that solved the problem. Two years later I had a no spark problem on both sides of the coil. As you, I had no tech info and decided to go ahead and yank the engine and replace the pickup module. Ran like a champ. The module was about a hundred bucks I think. I checked all kinds of things before I did it, like grounds, seat, ignition, and PTO switches. Just my 2 cents. Hope someone else on this Great site can be of more help.

 

[vbosch]

There is a test in the manual on this. I tried to attach it below. If this doesn't work contact me and I'll send it another way

Ignition Module test.doc (66 k)

The test is a follows
Note Terminal (A)is the larger of the two post.
Measure ignition module voltage. Connect voltmeter red lead to negative (-) coil terminal (A) and black lead to engine ground.
Turn key switch to RUN position.
Turn flywheel slowly by hand. Voltage should fluctuate back and forth between battery voltage and 1 - 1.5 volts.

Results:
VOLTAGE DOES NOT SWITCH: Replace Ignition control module.
IMPORTANT: Always replace ignition module and trigger as a set.
Make sure an insulator is installed between the ignition module and gear cover.
Also, replace the condenser whenever the ignition module is replaced.

 

[jimpennycuff]

Thanks for the help. I replaced the condenser and now I have spark!!!!

 

[gunner]

My Father-In-Law called me and said he couldn't get it started to blow the 8" of fresh snow we got overnight. I looked at it tonight and found there was no spark. I checked the PTO switch and it was off. The brake was depressed. It turns over fine, just no spark. Are there any sensors that could be preventing it from starting? Neither side has spark, so it sounds to me like it's not the coils. Anyone have any ideas on what to check? I don't have an electrical schematic for it. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[w_broderick]

Time delay module failed,had the same thing happen on my father in laws gx 345 last week.No warning,the tractor started normal,ran a few seconds then quit.It would not restart,I checked all the obvious,gas in the tank,spark(none).Replaced the TDM with a spare I had and it has been running fine since.

 

[gunner]

Thanks William. I suspected it was something like that. I wasn't sure there was one, or the name of it, but figured there must be something like that as to why it stays running for a second after you turn the key off. Thanks again. I'll let you know when I get it running.

 

[gunner]

Well, I got it fixed. Apparently when your father-in-law asks where the part is located, and you point it out and start tracing wires to locate where they go, you jostle a bad connection and it works fine. I started cranking it over to raise the snow thrower so I could push it outside (more light) and it backfired. Well that means there's spark. So I continued until it worked through being flooded and it started. So we hung the new time delay module on the pegboard for future use. The dealer had 35 of them on hand and said it's a common thing to go out.

Thanks again for the help William!

 

[w_broderick]

Your probably going to end up changing it out anyway Troy,because sometimes they come and go with no rhyme or reason.I have read several posts where someone would rap on the module with a pliers or screwdriver handle and it would come back to life.Glad it worked out,a spare is good to have around.

 

[Moggyjames]

There is a test in the manual on this. I tried to attach it below. If this doesn't work contact me and I'll send it another way

Ignition Module test.doc (66 k)

The test is a follows
Note Terminal (A)is the larger of the two post.
Measure ignition module voltage. Connect voltmeter red lead to negative (-) coil terminal (A) and black lead to engine ground.
Turn key switch to RUN position.
Turn flywheel slowly by hand. Voltage should fluctuate back and forth between battery voltage and 1 - 1.5 volts.

Results:
VOLTAGE DOES NOT SWITCH: Replace Ignition control module.
IMPORTANT: Always replace ignition module and trigger as a set.
Make sure an insulator is installed between the ignition module and gear cover.
Also, replace the condenser whenever the ignition module is replaced.

This might sound like a Stupid question but does the insulator have to be on the back of the Pulse switch I bought a new one and it didn’t come with the backing and I’m having issues I’m wondering if I should make one and put it on the back of it please help

 

[chuckv]

Yes, the insulator MUST be there -- see this excerpt from the manual:

 

[Moggyjames]

Thank you got all new parts and have been pulling my hair out for weeks and weeks. I’ve pulled the motor like 8 times now. I’ll pull it out again put something on the back of it. I don’t have one would a gasket work or something like that.

 

[Mike_U]

If I recall correctly, that isolator might be made of thin rubber. If you are going through all the work to take the flywheel off again, I would try to buy the genuine part.
What kind of problems does the engine have, stalling, won’t start, quits when hot? Check that 3 pin connector where the module connects to the engine - sometimes that connector causes intermittent connections. Also look at the wires coming from the ignition module and the stator and make sure the insulation is good and the wires aren’t shorting against anything.

I’ve often wondered what the function of that isolator on the ignition module is and what it prevents but I have never tried to run without it. I don’t think it’s electrical isolation because the module is held in with metal screws. Maybe it prevents heat from the block from overheating the electronics in the module? Does anyone know it’s function?

 

[Moggyjames]

If I recall correctly, that isolator might be made of thin rubber. If you are going through all the work to take the flywheel off again, I would try to buy the genuine part.
What kind of problems does the engine have, stalling, won’t start, quits when hot? Check that 3 pin connector where the module connects to the engine - sometimes that connector causes intermittent connections. Also look at the wires coming from the ignition module and the stator and make sure the insulation is good and the wires aren’t shorting against anything.

I’ve often wondered what the function of that isolator on the ignition module is and what it prevents but I have never tried to run without it. I don’t think it’s electrical isolation because the module is held in with metal screws. Maybe it prevents heat from the block from overheating the electronics in the module? Does anyone know it’s function?

Last year it would run and when it got it would shut down. No spark. So this spring I ordered coil condenser module and ring thing. Now I have no spark again coil good condenser good. Tested with micrometre and there’s no trigger pulse when I rotate The fly wheel. I don’t think it’s TDM. I can’t even get spark on the bench with the battery and booster cables. If I ground out the negative side of the coil it’ll backfire. The only thing that’s not right is that insulator on the back of the trigger was not there on the new one I’ll try to make it out of gasket or something see if that works

 

[chuckv]

The insulator is both thermal and electrical...use the factory part! The trigger ring must be placed on the crankshaft in the correct orientation as to which side is toward the flywheel -- see the picture below from the vendor:

Chuck

 

[Mike_U]

The insulator is both thermal and electrical...use the factory part! The trigger ring must be placed on the crankshaft in the correct orientation as to which side is toward the flywheel -- see the picture below from the vendor:
View attachment 268365

Chuck

Thanks Chuck.

 

[Moggyjames]

The insulator is both thermal and electrical...use the factory part! The trigger ring must be placed on the crankshaft in the correct orientation as to which side is toward the flywheel -- see the picture below from the vendor:
View attachment 268365

Chuck

Yup it’s out wards