[amvcane]

Recently picked up a new to me 332 in need of some TLC and maintenance. Fuel pump gave up after cutting 1/2 acre and I replaced with a Facet pump from Napa. After changing fuel filter and bleeding out air I was on the other side of the engine and noticed fluid pouring all over the deck. Went back around to the filter side and the input nipple came loose from the filter assembly, fuel spraying all over the just cleaned engine and front of tractor and all over garage floor. Pump works.
Has this happened to anyone else, and what was your solution? There is a small groove cut around the circumference of the end that goes into the filter. Picked out what I think was some hardened adhesive from of the groove. Thinking about cleaning and using some JB Weld.

 

[Skwirl]

It sounds like you need an o-ring on there.

 

[hel2002002yahoocom]

Yeah this happened to mine also, I was mowing when the 332 started to lose power and fuel spitting all over the lawn. I just went ahead and bought a used filter housing of off ebay.
I used Permaflex black to repair the other one but I have not used it yet ... We'll see when the one on it breaks.

Henry.

 

[amvcane]

Thanks for your input Henry.
its wired in place right now and I will address this after mowing and leaf collection season. Figured I would see if anyone has several years in on a similar type of fix.

 

[abrizgis]

The housings are made with cheap pot metal and inevitably break. Never seen one repaired with good long term results.

Best bet is new Deere version or go non oem and save a buck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mitchdaly]

I had the same problem on my 330, but not while I was mowing. I kept noticing a little fuel drip and took the left side cover off to see diesel all over the side. I noticed the output nipple was loose and I removed the fuel ine and pulled the nipple all the way out. Saw the same little groove in the end that you mentioned. I cleaned all around the filter housing and then placed the nipple back into the housing. I took a small block of wood (so I wouldn't mess up the end) and put it up against the nipple and tapped it with a small hammer. It seemed to set itself in there good and tight. It's been several hours of running since and I haven't noticed that it is coming loose again. If it does, my thought is to get an after-market filter assembly to replace it, hopefully finding it less expensive than going to Deere. I also replaced the line to the injector pump and the cheap spring clamps that were on that line. Here's hoping... :nada:

 

[VL21]

My new to me '91 332 has an aftermarket, Racor filter/water seperator mounted there, maybe it had the same problem. Don't know about that.

What I do know, though, is the Racor element/bowl that came with it leaked, and the replacement filter/bowl has been hard to keep from leaking, what it took was for me to get so sick of pulling the side panel because of recurring leakage that I took the biggest pair of pliers I own (water pump pliers) and really tighten the living he daylights out of it.It was either stop leaking or break, and at the time I didn't care which.
It stopped leaking. So far. A couple hours.

Racor R12T, it is small, has a water drain, and works best with a small spacer between the housing and the mount pad for clearance for the drain.

 

[amvcane]

Couldn’t wait any longer so I went with the JB-Weld Original cold weld formula. It’s what I had on hand.
The elbow was not damaged nor was the filter housing. Looks like the adhesive they used finally failed. Will update if any problems.

 

[knottyrope]

I would use Motorcraft TA31 RTV Silicone Sealant
Oil and diesel resistant

 

[amvcane]

I thought about using Permatex Moto Seal, but opted for a rigid adhesive. I felt that a flexible sealant would not last with the fuel line hanging from the elbow with all the vibration, especially when shutting the engine down. JMO.

 

[Kris OK]

Ehhh, it’s like 47$ from JD, and that includes a filter. I’d buy a new one and repair the old one for a back up. Mine was ingesting air at the inlet bleeder screw and causing it to run rough, lose rpm etc after about 30minutes. I replaced just about everything fuel related all the way to the injector pump before I figured it out. Plus I had the radiator rodded out because I thought it was overheating. It runs like a top now, haha. I may have the injectors calibrated since everyone says that makes a huge difference too.

Anyways, just my opinion but I always seem to do a repair and it works fine til I forget that I meant to replace it, then dies at the worst moment. It’s cheap enough to just get a new one and not have it fail on you.

Clean engine you got there, btw.

 

[Iron Mike Golf]

I wonder about the engine vibration causing a crack in a rigid adhesive.

 

[amvcane]

Mowed 2 acres of grass twice and did a 1 acre leaf collection with the trac-vac attached. No problems yet. Only time will tell.
When I put it all back together, I noticed that the fuel line has a hold down at the front engine mount. With the fuel line attached to the engine mount, the block, fuel filter and fuel line vibrate as one. When I bought the tractor the fuel line was hanging off the elbow and not secured to anything. I feel that the hanging un-tethered fuel line accelerated the failure.

 

[amvcane]

Another year of grass cutting and leaf pickup. No leaks.

 

[Toehead]

Nice to see this. I just had the same thing happen.

 

[amvcane]

Update: 2 more seasons, no leaks.