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I take it the breaker is still kicking after 10 seconds. Need to find out if it's a bad breaker or the wiring before you get a new one. Did you try switching it with the other circuit breaker that is on the tractor???? If it's still kicking the breaker with the other one on the tractor, it's in the wiring somewhere.
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
I replaced the breaker...and yes still clicking. Simply remove the B+ wire from regulator and all is fine! I double checked the DC volt coming from B+ on regulator and it won’t read above o.3 and it is a new regulator. If it were bare wires you would think it would effect it either way?
 
Sound like you have a dead short in the "B+"wire. Try a jumper wire from the DC side of the regulator to the "+" side of the battery and measure the voltage at the battery with it running and then with it not running. That will tell us whether the charging circuit is working.
What you are probably going to have to do is cut the "B+" wire close to the key switch plug and rewire it to the "amp gauge", new wire from the "amp gauge to the "circuit breaker" and then another from the "circuit breaker" to the "hot" side of the solenoid.

If all else fails, you might have to buy another wiring harness. Looks like this one will work. It doesn't say what year, but 1969 and later were all the basically the same.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/John-Deere...580286?hash=item3fe340477e:g:16AAAOSwPGNe49EA

Here is the harness part # AM33903
I have no idea if it's available or what it cost.

HAPCO sells them for $200
http://hapcoparts.com/wireharnessforjohndeere140-1.aspx


I could send you one of mine with all the plugs marked where they go, and see it your tractor will run with it. If it does, you could send me yours for me to fix for no charge except the cost of shipping it back to you plus the shipping of mine to you.
 
in, Before you start buying/replacing parts, do another check. Remove plug from regulator and check each AC wire from stator to ground. If OK, NO continuity, start engine, warm for 3 or 4 minutes, go full throttle, and check AV volts from stator... check wire to wire then wire to ground. Bob
 
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Win, Sounds it to me! Pull flywheel and check the 2 leads from stator...VERY CLOSELY! You may just have a thin area in insulation or a small crack/split in insulation. This break in the insulation may also be in the coils and I doubt if you'll be able to spot that. Check leads and replace stator if needed. Bob
 
How are you checking the stator that you get 2 different readings???? Set your meter to "AC" volts and and hook both stator wires to your meter. Start engine and read voltage from idle to full RPM, shut it down. Do it again. If they are different, do it again. Want to get the readings to be the as close to the same every time.
 
As Red said. You don’t measure from the lead to ground. You measure across both leads with meter set to AC.

If you really have a short in the harness it is possible you have damaged your new regulator.


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Discussion starter · #49 ·
What I did was measured both stator wires at high rpm on AC volt. Read 26 so then still being on AC I tested each wire separately red to wire black to ground .....one wire read 6-12 volts ac and the other 20 -21 volts ac.
 
Win, If stator wires were completely removed from regulator, Stator is bad. You should not have ANY voltage to ground. If stator plug was loosened from regulator enough to get a reading on stator wires, yet still attached to regulator, You may have a bad regulator...allowing some AC voltage to go to ground.

Remove stator wires completely from regulator. Set meter to resistance and check each wire to ground. You should have infinite resistance/NO continuity. No need to start engine. Bob
 
What I did was measured both stator wires at high rpm on AC volt. Read 26 so then still being on AC I tested each wire separately red to wire black to ground .....one wire read 6-12 volts ac and the other 20 -21 volts ac.

OK, I understand now.
Do as Bob said and do the stator leads to ground test.
 
As I think about your shorting problem, I really think it might be the stator is grounding somewhere. Your going to have to pull the engine.

Here is how I do it.

Take the grille out
Unbolt the muffler support on the left side (as your looking from the front).
Unplug the headlight if equipped.
Pull hood by spreading it apart off the hinge pins.
Unbolt muffler support bracket from left side, and then all 4 bolts from the hood supports
Pull battery and loosen the 2 fuel tank straps. Pull fuel line off carb and pull tank
Unbolt battery tray and take it out
Take a 1/2" wrench and take the 2 bolts out holding the driveshaft to the flywheel hub.
Take battery cable off starter
Unplug the stator/+ coil plug
Disconnect the throttle and choke cables
Unplug the PTO clutch
Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the engine from the bottom.



I've done this enough on my herd of 140's, I'm sure I can do it in my sleep.


Once engine is on your bench (or what ever you use), pull the shroud.
Take nut off holding flywheel
Using a flywheel puller or harmonic balance puller, bolt to flywheel and tighten the puller bolt. Wack the puller bolt with a big hammer and it should pop. If it doesn't, tighten the puller a little more and try again with hammer. R&R the stator




Engine support stand for working on engine










Pulling the flywheel


 
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