John Deere 140 No spark

8502 Views 34 Replies 8 Participants Last post by lisle, Aug 5, 2014

nitrosport_5

Discussion Starter · Jul 13, 2014

Ive got an early i believe John Deere 140. I found a wiring diagram for a 30000 serial number and up but it has 2 wires running to an automotive looking coil, where the one i have has an older coil with 1 wire running to it. I would go get the serial number but its late and its out in the shop...

Ive got no power to the coil when i turn the key on, but when i crank the engine i do get power pulsing to that wire. Would that suggest a bad coil? or should the coil have more constant power.

21 - 35 of 35 Posts

woodpecker41

· #21 · Jul 17, 2014

Matt when new these early electronic ignitions had severe failure rates. That is why they were only made one year and why most were converted to normal battery points coil ignition. In other words all the things you are describing were happening 45 years ago and Kohler gave up on the system. That makes it an interesting oddity but not one you can depend on to run every or all day. Good luck with it. Roger

nitrosport_5

Discussion Starter · #22 · Jul 17, 2014

Roger I appreciate you guys putting up with my stubbornness in thinking I can make this work. I'm to the point where I think its worth the roughly $175 for the kholer breaker point conversion as was mentioned early on in this thread

nitrosport_5

Discussion Starter · #23 · Jul 17, 2014

Got the go ahead to put points on the old girl. Shouldn't have any more problems after this install.

nitrosport_5

Discussion Starter · #24 · Jul 17, 2014

Now, to install points, is this where they mount? I'm notnseeing the plug that needs knocked out. In wish I could tell you the exact engine this is. There is no plate or serial number I can see

Edit: Or is it that small hole about an inch above the flathead screw? I was looking for a much larger hole

See less See more

cd202

· #25 · Jul 18, 2014

A rod goes in that hole to control the points. Above and below that hole are screw holes to mount the points. Above and below those holes there is 2 more holes where the points cover screws on.

cd202

· #26 · Jul 18, 2014

And it's a kohler K321

woodpecker41

· #27 · Jul 18, 2014

Matt take the cover in the picture off. That is where the points live and then follow Colton's advice. I doubt it will cost $75 to make the change. Roger

cd202

· #28 · Jul 18, 2014

The cover in the picture covers the cam gear not the points.

cd202

· #29 · Jul 18, 2014

4

I couldn't find a mount for the points in arms reach but you get the idea.

See less See more

cd202

· #30 · Jul 18, 2014

The thing I dont knoe is if he should be changing the stator

nitrosport_5

Discussion Starter · #31 · Jul 18, 2014

Thanks guys. From what I read the stator doesn't need changed. Its job now is just to charge the battery, and the ignition will now run on the battery. Am I wrong?

And I got all the parts for right around $85. Coil points pushrod, coil bracket plugnwire and ignition switch.

woodpecker41

· #32 · Jul 18, 2014

Colton the stator only charges the battery and as such really has nothing to do with the ignition except charge the battery. My bad on points location. Roger

cd202

· #33 · Jul 18, 2014

Stator feeds to battery and straight to the coil on a solid state.

nitrosport_5

Discussion Starter · #34 · Jul 29, 2014

Well I ended up doing the points conversion. Used the same stator and it still charges the battery and ran good. So I say it was a success!

Thanks everyone again or your help!

lisle

· #35 · Aug 5, 2014

I have a 2200 serial number 140. It has the magneto, doesn't work well so if I understand to change to battery ignition I need to cut the wire from the magneto to the points and cut the the spark plug wire, replace the ignition switch, wire from switch to battery ignition coil, change condenser ?

21 - 35 of 35 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.