John Deere 317 rebuild questions
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It's finally done. Here's the pics.
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I spent all last week trying to figure out why I couldn't get the max rpms above 2600 no matter where the stop was set. It finally occurred to me on Thursday that I had the throttle cable mounted too far forward. I moved it back and now it maxes out at 3560.
Two things remain though.
When I "stop" in neutral the tractor still moves very slowly forward or backward depending up the direction it was in before neutral. I didn't notice this before because the snow blower was down and it stopped it from moving. Is there an adjuster somewhere or is there just too much play in the control lever?
Secondly, I'm missing this part:
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I'm still not sure what it does. Adjusts the mower deck height or something. I'm hoping to find it when I finish cleaning up the shed but if I don't, what is its size? The parts manual I have shows it there but doesn't give a size.
I finally remembered to look at the serial number for the tractor. It's a 1979. One of the first 10000 made. That explains why the engine was series one with the old style connecting rod.
Anyway, I still have to fine tune the RPMs but that's minor. All the major stuff is over now.
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Eugene
I spent all last week trying to figure out why I couldn't get the max rpms above 2600 no matter where the stop was set. It finally occurred to me on Thursday that I had the throttle cable mounted too far forward. I moved it back and now it maxes out at 3560.
Two things remain though.
When I "stop" in neutral the tractor still moves very slowly forward or backward depending up the direction it was in before neutral. I didn't notice this before because the snow blower was down and it stopped it from moving. Is there an adjuster somewhere or is there just too much play in the control lever?
Secondly, I'm missing this part:
I'm still not sure what it does. Adjusts the mower deck height or something. I'm hoping to find it when I finish cleaning up the shed but if I don't, what is its size? The parts manual I have shows it there but doesn't give a size.
I finally remembered to look at the serial number for the tractor. It's a 1979. One of the first 10000 made. That explains why the engine was series one with the old style connecting rod.
Anyway, I still have to fine tune the RPMs but that's minor. All the major stuff is over now.
Eugene
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If you can't find yours, I would go on ebay and buy one. Lot easier than making one. George
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I been following this thread, and I am really happy that you prevailed and goterdun! that's a testimony to endurance and perseverance, think of the experience gained, nothing you can scare you now about a 317, nice result Eugene, it looks like a worker. Good luck with it
I too would like to give you a cyber-pat on the back for completing this adventure! You should get plenty of chances to use the blower this winter.
And yes, if you can't find the parts in the shed, try an ad in the "Wanted" section of the classifieds here. You should double check, but I believe the lift stop parts are the same for the 312, 314, 317, 316K and 300 tractors. Should be plenty of parts tractors around like those.
tommyhawk
And yes, if you can't find the parts in the shed, try an ad in the "Wanted" section of the classifieds here. You should double check, but I believe the lift stop parts are the same for the 312, 314, 317, 316K and 300 tractors. Should be plenty of parts tractors around like those.
tommyhawk
This last week and half I've been trying to figure out what to write to wrap up this thread, but it turns out this tractor isn't done being difficult yet.
I've been running it every day, letting it warm up and then driving around the neighborhood trying to get the engine broken in. I thought I had the RPM range set correctly three times now. I'll have to just describe what's going on.
It starts up ok. It usually takes two tries to get it started. Put it at half throttle. The first time choking it, it starts, runs a couple of seconds and then the RPMs go down until it quits. The second time choking it, its turns over fine. The RPMs stays the same for a couple of seconds, then revs up and stays there but as the engine warms up the revs slowly come back down again.
After this, I take it out for a drive if I throttle it up, even once, and then throttle it back down, the engine doesn't throttle back down to where it was when it started. After it warms up it settles at about 1900 rpm but after throttling up and then down it never goes below 1700 rpm.
After the second time this happened when I got back from the drive, I reset the min RPMs, ending up have to move the throttle cable to do this. The next day, before taking out for the drive, the min and max were fine, but after the drive, it would not go below 1600 rpm.
I'm not sure what to make of this. Is it normal?
Also, how long before a new engine stops excessively burning oil? I know it burns a little oil when it starts up, the more times I start it the faster the smoke goes away. It used to smoke a couple of minutes after starting before, now maybe not even a minute. I have to add about 4 oz every other time it runs. So far this engine has run about 90 minutes all together.
Looking at the pics of 317s on-line shows that some people paint the grill green and some paint it black. What color is the grill supposed to be? Assuming this tractor lasts all winter, I'm going to give a proper paint job in the spring.
I finally got the user manual. I see the creep in neutral is addressed in there. Looks like I'm going to have get the technical manual to figure which of the four types I have and how to fix it but that's probably going to have to wait for spring.
Eugene.
I've been running it every day, letting it warm up and then driving around the neighborhood trying to get the engine broken in. I thought I had the RPM range set correctly three times now. I'll have to just describe what's going on.
It starts up ok. It usually takes two tries to get it started. Put it at half throttle. The first time choking it, it starts, runs a couple of seconds and then the RPMs go down until it quits. The second time choking it, its turns over fine. The RPMs stays the same for a couple of seconds, then revs up and stays there but as the engine warms up the revs slowly come back down again.
After this, I take it out for a drive if I throttle it up, even once, and then throttle it back down, the engine doesn't throttle back down to where it was when it started. After it warms up it settles at about 1900 rpm but after throttling up and then down it never goes below 1700 rpm.
After the second time this happened when I got back from the drive, I reset the min RPMs, ending up have to move the throttle cable to do this. The next day, before taking out for the drive, the min and max were fine, but after the drive, it would not go below 1600 rpm.
I'm not sure what to make of this. Is it normal?
Also, how long before a new engine stops excessively burning oil? I know it burns a little oil when it starts up, the more times I start it the faster the smoke goes away. It used to smoke a couple of minutes after starting before, now maybe not even a minute. I have to add about 4 oz every other time it runs. So far this engine has run about 90 minutes all together.
Looking at the pics of 317s on-line shows that some people paint the grill green and some paint it black. What color is the grill supposed to be? Assuming this tractor lasts all winter, I'm going to give a proper paint job in the spring.
I finally got the user manual. I see the creep in neutral is addressed in there. Looks like I'm going to have get the technical manual to figure which of the four types I have and how to fix it but that's probably going to have to wait for spring.
Eugene.
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201 Posts
Eugene as far as your rpm problem maybe the throttle and governor springs need to be adjusted and or the throttle and choke cables need some adjustment, I wish I could help more on this. Maybe tomorrow when I'm home I'll look at my 317 and see if I can get you more help.
As far as the grill goes, the 317 I have was bought new by my dad in 1982, looking at old pictures from back when he first got it, the grill was black, I can also tell you, when you buy a new replacement grill it is also black, but you have to buy the Deere emblem and emblem strap and self threading washers.
As far as the grill goes, the 317 I have was bought new by my dad in 1982, looking at old pictures from back when he first got it, the grill was black, I can also tell you, when you buy a new replacement grill it is also black, but you have to buy the Deere emblem and emblem strap and self threading washers.
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1,346 Posts
Eugene,
Check to be sure the rubber dump valve on the air cleaner housing does not interfere with the throttle linkage. If the valve is set on the left side it must be positioned carefully to avoid interference.
Harold
Check to be sure the rubber dump valve on the air cleaner housing does not interfere with the throttle linkage. If the valve is set on the left side it must be positioned carefully to avoid interference.
Harold
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27 Posts
Great to see you got it running!
+1 on Harold's answer above. It happened to me.
Yep, the grill was originally black.
I’ll bet the detent bushings in the hydro linkage are worn causing creep. I’ll see if I can find the part number from when I replaced mine.
Scott
+1 on Harold's answer above. It happened to me.
Yep, the grill was originally black.
I’ll bet the detent bushings in the hydro linkage are worn causing creep. I’ll see if I can find the part number from when I replaced mine.
Scott
I think the oil leak is back but I'm not sure. I'll just describe what's been going on.
I've been running the tractor 15-20 minutes a day (driving around about half the time) almost every day. I think it is using more oil than it should. I still don't entirely trust the camshaft plug so when I park it I make sure there is a level layer of snow under the engine to see if any oil drops down. I haven't seen any oil on the snow yet.
However, I've wiped off the top of the housing and the plate that is next to the fuel pump a couple times now. After I've ran it for the day they still look dry but the next day before starting it there is more oil on the housing and plate. When the camshaft plug leaked the oil came out of the top, sides, bottom of the housing, and I could see the oil drops flying when it was running. I don't see anything while it running and the oil only appears on top.
I'd think that if there is a leak then oil drops would have to hit the ground at some point but the oil only appears on the top of the engine. I even put a large piece of cardboard under the entire length of the tractor one time and only one drop of something under the trany nothing under the engine.
I'm not sure what to make of it. Is using about 4 oz of oil every 30-40 minutes of run time normal for newly rebuilt engines? Any other thoughts as to what might be happening?
Eugene
I've been running the tractor 15-20 minutes a day (driving around about half the time) almost every day. I think it is using more oil than it should. I still don't entirely trust the camshaft plug so when I park it I make sure there is a level layer of snow under the engine to see if any oil drops down. I haven't seen any oil on the snow yet.
However, I've wiped off the top of the housing and the plate that is next to the fuel pump a couple times now. After I've ran it for the day they still look dry but the next day before starting it there is more oil on the housing and plate. When the camshaft plug leaked the oil came out of the top, sides, bottom of the housing, and I could see the oil drops flying when it was running. I don't see anything while it running and the oil only appears on top.
I'd think that if there is a leak then oil drops would have to hit the ground at some point but the oil only appears on the top of the engine. I even put a large piece of cardboard under the entire length of the tractor one time and only one drop of something under the trany nothing under the engine.
I'm not sure what to make of it. Is using about 4 oz of oil every 30-40 minutes of run time normal for newly rebuilt engines? Any other thoughts as to what might be happening?
Eugene
I have to run 30wt in my KT17. If I use 5w or 10w30, believe it or not it goes though oil bad. Even my low hour 10HP Magnum in my WheelHorse burns a lot with multigrade. Put a straight weight in there and I don't have to add oil the entire mowing season...
I'm using Delo 10W-30.
It was suggested here that since I live in a cold climate that a heavy duty 10W-30 oil should be used. One said that straight 30 would be like molasses below freezing which is when this tractor would get the most use. There were two brands suggestions but I could only find Delo.
It was suggested here that since I live in a cold climate that a heavy duty 10W-30 oil should be used. One said that straight 30 would be like molasses below freezing which is when this tractor would get the most use. There were two brands suggestions but I could only find Delo.
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621 Posts
The Delo 10w30 should be fine for winter use.
Delo is an excellent oil. 30wt in a MN winter would be so thick, you might not even be able to get it turning over fast enough to start. Even if it starts, it would take a while to pump through all the passages and the engine would see more startup wear.
I would keep running it and see if the oil consumption goes down over time. The best way to get the rings to seat is to work the engine. When the engine is under load, the cylinder pressure will be at its highest, this forces the rings out against the cylinder wall.
Delo is an excellent oil. 30wt in a MN winter would be so thick, you might not even be able to get it turning over fast enough to start. Even if it starts, it would take a while to pump through all the passages and the engine would see more startup wear.
I would keep running it and see if the oil consumption goes down over time. The best way to get the rings to seat is to work the engine. When the engine is under load, the cylinder pressure will be at its highest, this forces the rings out against the cylinder wall.
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201 Posts
Eugene I have been using Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic for the last few years and I couldn't be more pleased. I only have to add an ounce or two of oil ever 15-20 hours of run time, either when snow blowing or cutting grass.
As Josh said get out there and work that engine, even if you have to snowblower your yard or just push the snow around with out the blower running. Anything will help seat the rings.
As Josh said get out there and work that engine, even if you have to snowblower your yard or just push the snow around with out the blower running. Anything will help seat the rings.
You never want to put synthetic oil in an old engine. If it uses a little oil now or has never used oil before, it will with synthetic. Learned from past use.
Now if you have a 100% new engine, different story. But if you use in a freshly rebuilt or new engine the rings will take forever to seat.
The creep in my 318 was worn linkage parts.
Now if you have a 100% new engine, different story. But if you use in a freshly rebuilt or new engine the rings will take forever to seat.
The creep in my 318 was worn linkage parts.
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