[Deereman101]

Hows everyone doing today? I have a quick question for all of you. I took apart my JD 318 to clean the engine up cuz it was very greasy. Now I am putting the mower back together and i can't figure out how the wires go that go to the key switch. Can some one tell me starting at the top and going right or left which colors go where and also where they come from. I have looked at the wiring diagram but i can't figure that thing out. So your help would be greatly appreciated .
Serial Number is MOO318X483669 and its an onan P218G
Thanks
Jamason

 

[chuckv]

Jamason,

The ignition switch should have a mating one piece 5-pin connector, X1 on the schematic, on the harness that plugs into the back of the switch -- plus an additional single pin connector, X2 on the schematic, that also plugs onto the switch. The 5 pin connector housing locates all the wires except the one for terminal "A" of the switch, which mates with the X2 connector that terminates the red #400 wire and the pink #405 wire. If your harness has had the X1 connector replaced by individual wires then it gets more complicated. Here is a view of the back of the ignition switch that shows the terminal call outs:

On the schematic, you can see that the #200 red wire from the circuit breaker goes to terminal "B" of the switch. On your tractor (since it is above SN 475,000) there should also be a light green wire in this terminal. Terminal "S1" should have the single purple wire #700 that goes to the coil of the solenoid, Terminal "S2" should get the purple #710 wire and the purple/black #705 wire.

Note that there are two terminals of the switch that do not get any wires in this application...shown at the far left side of the illustration.

Hope this helps. Ask additional questions if you need further help.

Chuck

 

[Deereman101]

One more question. The voltage regulator that sits on the left side of the Onan engine. In which order do the wires go on or does it really matter. I know the one goes in the center but the other too I have no clue. LOL
Thanks

 

[kencombs]

The two outside wires are AC from the charging coil and can go on either terminal as there is no polarity.

 

[Deereman101]

I have another quick question. Where does the 25Amp circuit breaker that comes from the starter mount at.

 

[chuckv]

Jamason,

I don't have a 318 at my place anymore, but I think the circuit breaker clips into a spring bracket on the pedestal or the firewall. Here is the locator drawing from the TM1590 that might give you the general area -- sorry no other pictures available from me. Item 22 is the circuit breaker...

Chuck

 

[sflem849]

How in the world do you get at circuit breaker (22)?

 

[chuckv]

Scooter,

Later tractors have a removable side screen on the pedestal...early tractors require you to take out the battery and the battery tray to get that far into the pedestal area behind/below the dash.

Chuck

 

[alienbogey]

Background: I bought my 425 five years ago with 643 hours on it. The previous owner had a Deere dealer replace the plastic cam gear with metal, as well as new valve tappets and push rods plus an oil change and filters. Since then I've just filled it with gas, checked the oil, and run it. It now has 790 hours.

Last winter it developed a real reluctance to start when cold. This summer, in the warm weather, it has started and run just fine, and I had promised it that I would give it a good tune up once the season was over.

A week ago, in the middle of cutting the grass, it just plain quit. Gas tank was 7/8 full. Wouldn't start. Then I got it to start with starter fluid, but it would die once the fluid ran out. Then I got it to start and keep running, and I went back to the grass but it quit at full throttle a half dozen more times and sometimes would start up again after cranking, and sometimes would demand starter fluid to start. It got through the lawn and went into the garage and this time I REALLY promised it a tuneup.

Questions:

1. Any opinions and/or guesses on the quitting at full throttle problem?

2. Any opinions and/or guesses on the very reluctant to start on a cold day problem?

3. What should I do for a thorough tuneup? I'm not a motorhead, but I figure I should be able to do it. Anything beyond new plugs, oil filter, oil, fuel filter, air filter?

4. What might be a good idea to replace as preventive maintenance?

5. Is it best to buy parts from the Deere dealer or is there a good online source?

It's been a great little garden tractor and we use it for a lot of stuff. The headlights and tail lights don't work (tail lights aren't even there) which doesn't bother me, but the temperature and fuel gauge don't either. Fuel gauge is no problem because I can just take the cap off and look, but I wish the temp gauge worked.

So, to summarize, I'd like to fix the problem(s) and do a thorough tuneup and preventive maintenance session - what parts should I get and install?

 

[akaothermick]

From what you have described it seems that you have a problem getting sufficient gas, possibly that gas filter is plugging up or the tank pick up is getting plugged up with dirt, spark plugs and a tune up wont solve a gas delivery problem unless you install a new gas filter also, but once the gas is flowing it will help, the fuel pump also needs to be checked for operation. Address the fuel issue first, if it runs on starting fluid the ignition system is working, but the fuel isn't getting there as evidenced by it stops running when the starting fluid is no longer supplied. Mick

 

[woodpecker41]

You should have also changed the oil at least 3 times in that many hours and years. 5 times would have been better. It is not a tractor you should throw parts at as they are very expensive and most will have to be bought at a JD dealer. Could be as simple as a plugged fuel filter or a plugged from dirt carburetor. Since you said you are not a motor head my recommendation would be to take it to the dealer or at least go into the dealership and ask what they think it could be. Welcome to WFM. Roger

 

[akaothermick]

Loren your maintenance of the tractor is below the John Deere recommendations for the unit and the problems that can result from it are starting to arise, you need to bring it back up to standard, take it to the dealer as you not being a "motor head" and the tractor requires experienced technicians,
Mick

 

[aquist06]

Make sure you fuel pump is working, you should hear it when you turn your key on, there should be a whining under the seat. If not, then that can be part of the problem. I had one that didn't always work, and had the same issue as your describe. Its an easy fix, pull the fender pan, removing the 4 bolts that hold it to the foot pan, then the two under the seat, un-hook the seat safety, the the pan should come off without much trouble. You will see the fuel sending unit directly on top of the fuel tank, unscrew it and check it out. I get most of my parts from the dealer, for maintenance, but the fuel pump I was able to get one from Autozone, they had the same one, since its a universal pump.

Good luck

 

[rsbrown67]

I experienced the exact same issue yesterday with my 455. It was in fact the fuel pump. I agree. listen to see if you can hear it turn on when you engage the key in position #1 (not the start position - which is position #2). If you can't hear it's slight whine, then it's likely the fuel pump. Before you remove it, you may want to check the removable fuses located within the opening underneath the display panel. In this location you will also see a control board with LED's on it, on the right side of the tractor underneath the steering wheel. Mine ended up being a loose 10A fuse which I was thankful for. It had me down for three hours running time yesterday though. Hope this helps.....

 

[alienbogey]

Thanks for the replies.

I have been unable to get back to the 425 until now because work, life, and deer hunting got in the way.

This morning I did the following:

• Turned the key to the first position. I heard the fuel pump running. Tried to start the engine - cranked well but no ignition.

• Pulled the air filter box off and sprayed starter fluid down the throat of the carb. The engine started and ran until the fluid ran out.

• Noticed that the air filter minder was at the red mark and reset it.

• Wiped off the fuel filter so I could see in - it looks old but okay to me.

• Pulled the outlet hose off the fuel filter, turned the key to first position and pumped fuel all over everything. The fuel filter looks to me like it's delivering good flow.

• Pulled the fuel hose off the carb inlet and looked down the hose. All clear.

• Scratched head.

• Put fuel hose back on carb and fuel filter. Cranked engine. It started immediately and ran just fine.

• Scratched head again.

• Put everything back together (vacuumed air filter first) and the engine again started immediately, multiple times, and ran perfectly.

• Mowed the lawn. It ran perfectly, mowing grass/picking up leaves, for about 30 minutes then, near the end, began to cough, stumble, and quit.

• I turned the key off, back to first position, and heard the fuel pump operating.

• It started right up again, and I finished the job in another 5 minutes with one more cough/stumble episode.

Right now the only thing I can think of is a fuel pump that is working intermittently. When the engine receives fuel it runs fine, and I saw the fuel pump delivering fuel in a healthy-looking stream out the output side of the fuel filter when I had it apart.

Thoughts?

 

[alienbogey]

My local JD outfit doesn't have the pump in stock, so I'm going to have to order it.

He said that his system showed that the pump comes with a filter included that comes out the bottom, and a sending unit.

He asked if I needed the sending unit and I said that I had no idea.

I'm not even sure what the sending unit is - do I need to replace it, or is it a good preventative idea, or not necessary?

 

[woodpecker41]

Loren the sending unit is what makes the gas gauge work. Roger

 

[jdmaninlouky]

Loren -

I want your serial no. , or first two (of it) so-for-to know exactly what year it is ; or you can just add 2 to the first number after the first zero . *ie , if your first two numbers are 01 that would be a 199(3) model , 05 would be 199(7) , and so forth . I can assume it's pre '99 since you mentioned the plastic timing gear change-out , but that's as close as I can get without your input on this .
The reason I would like to know this is to determine if you have a main jet fuel solenoid on the carb. , or not (very early model ones didn't) . Also a fuzzy ((malfunctioning intermittently)) Time Delay Module (cheap $25.oo fix) could be another possible cause of intermittent rough run and other possible (no start/total cut out) issues . A number of electrical maladies can cause the main jet fuel solenoid to not stay open ; and the time delay module maybe/could fall into this category I would think , and if not , (I) would certainly call it a major , but cheap , tune up part for an older 425 .

A choke plate (at top-center of carb.) mal-adjustment could (very likely) be your cold start issue . Make sure it fully closes at full choke position @ lever on dash , if not , adjust @ cable hold down bracket @ engine to where it does close fully and still opens fully in choke off position @ dash .

Let us know . Hopefully You'll be surprised at how simple some fixes can be with the right information . Not always , ...but sometimes .

Dave

 

[alienbogey]

Dave,

Sorry for the delay.

The serial number is is M00425A013106.

My local Deere dealer doesn't have a fuel pump in stock. I've looked at Deere's web site, but I'm finding it frustrating to deal with their site.

I've found a consumer type "tune up kit" that includes filters, spark plugs and oil, but no fuel pump.

Of course, I'm not sure yet whether it needs a fuel pump.

All electrical connections and fuses seem to be rock solid.

Should the fuel filter that's just before the carb be nearly empty when the engine is running? The bottom of the filter bowl has just a bit of fuel when the engine idles, but I don't know if it should be that way or not.

 

[jdmaninlouky]

Loren -

Start with a thorough carb. cleaning . IOWs remove and dismantle as far as possible , and clean everything , nut just areas you can see , but all passageways and jets , emulsion tube , needle and seat , etc . Flush through all passageways and orifices with can of carb. spray or cleaner of choice , follow with compressed air , reassemble and test . Report back with findings . And like I said a new time delay module SHOULD be a part included in with a tune up if for no other reason than - It's cheap , and when they act up cause all kinds of goofy problems .

You have a '93 model year , probably don't have the carb. solenoid , but check for sure . Tractor that old will surely have one rotted out hose clamp and possibly deteriorated hose at the fuel pump transfer hose inside the tank . I've seen this on everyone I've tore into . I would spend a little time there before deciding on a new fuel pump . Suspect/inspect any/all electrical connections while you are in there at the fuel pump .

Seat , rear fender pan will have to come off to remove/inspect in tank pump , but it's not a bad job .

Dave