hello all, well I have the charging system up to par but now I am having issues with my Glow plugs warming. I am not getting any DC voltage to the glow plugs. I have ohm out from the wire to the glow plug module, and have ohm out the module power wire that runs to the starter. I am getting power coming from the starter to the module. Any other suggestions? I "pinched" the wire that runs from the wire harness to the water pump but it appears to be fine when I ohm'd it out, I'm not sure if that would relate to the problem I am having with the glow plugs not warming but that was the only thing I changed since the last time I've parked the tractor. any help?
John deere 332 glow plug issues
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If that 'pinch' broke some of the strands inside the wire insulation then yes, it could have an effect.
Since the glow plugs draw considerable current when they are working properly, you should be able to measure the voltage drop on the wiring itself. Start by measuring the voltage at the glow plug when it is in its brief cycle at the beginning of the time the key is turned to ON -- it should be at least 10 volts at the plug itself. If not, then measure the voltage at the module output pin 4 -- any large difference is the voltage drop across the wire itself.
Another place you can loose voltage due to the high current is in the F3 fusible link and its wiring, so check that pin 2 of the module is at battery voltage both when the key is off and when the glow plugs are cycling.
Chuck
Since the glow plugs draw considerable current when they are working properly, you should be able to measure the voltage drop on the wiring itself. Start by measuring the voltage at the glow plug when it is in its brief cycle at the beginning of the time the key is turned to ON -- it should be at least 10 volts at the plug itself. If not, then measure the voltage at the module output pin 4 -- any large difference is the voltage drop across the wire itself.
Another place you can loose voltage due to the high current is in the F3 fusible link and its wiring, so check that pin 2 of the module is at battery voltage both when the key is off and when the glow plugs are cycling.
Chuck
yeah, the plugs are fine, I believe the module must have gone bad, I jumped #4 on the module to the wire that runs to the glow plugs, and it fired right up. Im going to see if one of the auto parts stores carry a glow plug module like deeres.
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S. Keating,
The terminal number 4 on the module *is* the wire that should go to the glow plugs -- the red/white #310 wire shown here:
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This illustration is for the 332 and 330...here is the legend for the 430.
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...and here is the text from the TM1591 on how it works:
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Perhaps the #310 wire on terminal 4 of the module is open somewhere along its length... I still believe that your module is not the root cause of this fault.
Chuck
The terminal number 4 on the module *is* the wire that should go to the glow plugs -- the red/white #310 wire shown here:
This illustration is for the 332 and 330...here is the legend for the 430.
...and here is the text from the TM1591 on how it works:
Perhaps the #310 wire on terminal 4 of the module is open somewhere along its length... I still believe that your module is not the root cause of this fault.
Chuck
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4 will only get power for about 30 seconds, it wont stay on forever
Are you getting power to any other terminals?
Are you getting power to any other terminals?
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Terminals 2 and 4 are directly connected to the relay contacts that are actuated by relay coil "A" in the diagram above. There is no other connection to either terminal inside the module, so it does not matter if it has always been wired as you report with the plugs on terminal 2 and the input power from the fusible link on terminal 4.
I do not have any explanation of how it got that way, but that would not be a reason for the drive voltage not getting to the plugs. What CAN cause the lack of the plugs getting powered for the heating cycle is that the relay is not closing for some reason.
Does the glow plug indicator lamp light when you first turn the key to ON? If so, how long does it remain lit?
You mentioned that there is no voltage at any other module terminal -- terminal 3 should have 12 volts on it when the key is ON, as that is what powers the electronics in the module. If there is no power on terminal 3, then check the fuse or holder for F2 (the 10 amp fuse.)
Chuck
I do not have any explanation of how it got that way, but that would not be a reason for the drive voltage not getting to the plugs. What CAN cause the lack of the plugs getting powered for the heating cycle is that the relay is not closing for some reason.
Does the glow plug indicator lamp light when you first turn the key to ON? If so, how long does it remain lit?
You mentioned that there is no voltage at any other module terminal -- terminal 3 should have 12 volts on it when the key is ON, as that is what powers the electronics in the module. If there is no power on terminal 3, then check the fuse or holder for F2 (the 10 amp fuse.)
Chuck
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Also...
You might take the questionable relay/module apart to see if there is a burned out trace on the circuit board, as discussed in 2005 by Romeo in this quotation:
"Well,
I took the relay apart last night and discovered a strip on the circuit board melted in half. I cleaned the strip and re soldered it so I could try it today. Well it works great now, and she starts right up with out a problem.
430 that doesn't start when it's cold - $60
time and investigation into the problem - FREE
430 that starts right off - PRICELESS
I know a lot of people have this same relay and would like to know if anyone else has taken their's apart and discovered the same thing.
I think what happens is a person might have moisture inside the little relay and when the piece gets to hot from cranking it melts this little strip. Just curious to see if this is something that is the cause of the problem with these burning up.
If anyone is interested in having their old one fixed (if you still have it) let me know"
The entire thread is here --
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/335/422475.html
The glow plug controller module was $60 from Deere in 2005 -- and likely quite a bit more by now so what have you got to loose?
AND BY THE WAY...the glow plugs will not be powered at all if the temperature is at or above about 70 degrees or so -- it is cold now where you are, isn't it???
Chuck
You might take the questionable relay/module apart to see if there is a burned out trace on the circuit board, as discussed in 2005 by Romeo in this quotation:
"Well,
I took the relay apart last night and discovered a strip on the circuit board melted in half. I cleaned the strip and re soldered it so I could try it today. Well it works great now, and she starts right up with out a problem.
430 that doesn't start when it's cold - $60
time and investigation into the problem - FREE
430 that starts right off - PRICELESS
I know a lot of people have this same relay and would like to know if anyone else has taken their's apart and discovered the same thing.
I think what happens is a person might have moisture inside the little relay and when the piece gets to hot from cranking it melts this little strip. Just curious to see if this is something that is the cause of the problem with these burning up.
If anyone is interested in having their old one fixed (if you still have it) let me know"
The entire thread is here --
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/335/422475.html
The glow plug controller module was $60 from Deere in 2005 -- and likely quite a bit more by now so what have you got to loose?
AND BY THE WAY...the glow plugs will not be powered at all if the temperature is at or above about 70 degrees or so -- it is cold now where you are, isn't it???
Chuck
Chuck, its starting to get cooler here in SC today it was 70 degrees a little unusual for us, this time of the year but I'm not complaining. So I ordered another relay and installed it today, the glow plugs worked, but stayed on continually supplying power to the glow plugs. What got my attention first was why the glow plug light was staying on. I then checked with a meter going to my glow plugs and sure enough I was getting 11.5 volts to them
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I am having some bad luck!!! another question I have is where does the negative connection go to that connects to the fuel pump? (I knocked it off while tracing wires and am not sure where it ties in at?) I know i could send it straight to ground but would prefer to put it back to where it originally came from.
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The glow plug lamp should be illuminated for about 8 seconds from the time the key is first turned to ON and then go out... The glow plugs, however should remain powered for about 30 seconds -- see the last paragraph in the text attachment to my post 7799 above.
If pins 5 and 4 are shorted together in the module socket some bizarre lamp behaviors may be possible, and the lamp would likely stay lit as long as the glow plugs themselves are powered (30 seconds nominally...)
The fuel shutoff has two windings, a pull-in higher current one that is only on for a short time and a hold-in one that keeps the fuel flowing until the TDCM calls for a safety shutdown or the key is turned to OFF. If your wiring has been hacked such that the pull-in coil is powered for a prolonged time, it will burn out and not open the valve correctly when the tractor is first turned on. With the key in the ON position, try manually moving the fuel shutoff linkage and see if it stays in place -- that may confirm a burned out pull-in coil but a still functioning hold-in coil. You can also measure the coil resistance (an open would indicate a burned out winding...) Here is the schematic excerpt:
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and how it is supposed to work:
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Chuck
If pins 5 and 4 are shorted together in the module socket some bizarre lamp behaviors may be possible, and the lamp would likely stay lit as long as the glow plugs themselves are powered (30 seconds nominally...)
The fuel shutoff has two windings, a pull-in higher current one that is only on for a short time and a hold-in one that keeps the fuel flowing until the TDCM calls for a safety shutdown or the key is turned to OFF. If your wiring has been hacked such that the pull-in coil is powered for a prolonged time, it will burn out and not open the valve correctly when the tractor is first turned on. With the key in the ON position, try manually moving the fuel shutoff linkage and see if it stays in place -- that may confirm a burned out pull-in coil but a still functioning hold-in coil. You can also measure the coil resistance (an open would indicate a burned out winding...) Here is the schematic excerpt:
and how it is supposed to work:
Chuck
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