Blake generally with carb problems on a Tecumseh you end up replacing it. There is a check ball inside the carb that sometimes freezes/sticks and there is no way to get to it and fix it. If you have all the parts (float, needle , etc.) off the carb and shake it you should hear a small rattle inside the carb body. If you do not hear that throw that body away and put all your new parts into a different carb or better yet buy a new one if you can find one. Roger
John Deere 60
Hello all,
I have a John Deere 60 lawn tractor. When I restored it, I put a NOS 57 RER block in it. Everything was new. I had the technician at the store here set the points for me because at that time, I could not get that. Since then, it has never ran correctly. Has good spark, and is getting fuel. I have always left it back in the corner of our shop until I got tired of looking at it sitting. Well the time has come. I took it out of storage about 2 weeks ago. put new battery in it, cleaned carb, rebuilt and installed. checked spark, had good spark, replaced spark plug just for good measure. I cranked on it for a while and nothing. started adjusting crab jets and it finally started. Ran very poorly so I adjusted until it ran at best decently. It ran for a while then died. I couldnt get it to start again until I adjusted jets to where it would start and then once it started once again, ran poorly. Adjusted accordingly again, and it ran for a while again, then died and process was again started over. I thought maybe one of my jets was bad so I bought another carb kit and replaced jets again after cleaning. and this time installed an in line see through fuel filter so that I knew I was getting clean fuel and my delivery of fuel was good. Still changed nothing. Getting good fuel, good spark, and it wont start unless I turn the jets out. Then when it does start, it really never has run smoothly. I am a bit confused at what the problem could be since everything is essentially new in it. I was wondering if anyone here had any ideas? I am away from my shop for a couple of days now, but as I wait to get back, hopefully I can get some ideas on what to do with this thing. Another note, when it dies it is immediate. It gives no signs of sputtering, which sounds kind of like ignition to me. I just hate to pull the flywheel and start messing with that system unless I am sure thats the issue. The next thing I was going to try was a cylinder leakdown test to see if there is anything there.
Thanks in advance,
Blake
I have a John Deere 60 lawn tractor. When I restored it, I put a NOS 57 RER block in it. Everything was new. I had the technician at the store here set the points for me because at that time, I could not get that. Since then, it has never ran correctly. Has good spark, and is getting fuel. I have always left it back in the corner of our shop until I got tired of looking at it sitting. Well the time has come. I took it out of storage about 2 weeks ago. put new battery in it, cleaned carb, rebuilt and installed. checked spark, had good spark, replaced spark plug just for good measure. I cranked on it for a while and nothing. started adjusting crab jets and it finally started. Ran very poorly so I adjusted until it ran at best decently. It ran for a while then died. I couldnt get it to start again until I adjusted jets to where it would start and then once it started once again, ran poorly. Adjusted accordingly again, and it ran for a while again, then died and process was again started over. I thought maybe one of my jets was bad so I bought another carb kit and replaced jets again after cleaning. and this time installed an in line see through fuel filter so that I knew I was getting clean fuel and my delivery of fuel was good. Still changed nothing. Getting good fuel, good spark, and it wont start unless I turn the jets out. Then when it does start, it really never has run smoothly. I am a bit confused at what the problem could be since everything is essentially new in it. I was wondering if anyone here had any ideas? I am away from my shop for a couple of days now, but as I wait to get back, hopefully I can get some ideas on what to do with this thing. Another note, when it dies it is immediate. It gives no signs of sputtering, which sounds kind of like ignition to me. I just hate to pull the flywheel and start messing with that system unless I am sure thats the issue. The next thing I was going to try was a cylinder leakdown test to see if there is anything there.
Thanks in advance,
Blake
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Roger,
Brand new carb when the engine was installed. Last time I had it apart, I shook it and the ball was "rattling" inside. I wondered that after you gave me that info on the 55 RER post I had not too long ago. I understand this carb is a bit different than that carb, but still has the check ball you are talking about. I appreciate your input and idea. Any other avenues to look down?
Blake
Brand new carb when the engine was installed. Last time I had it apart, I shook it and the ball was "rattling" inside. I wondered that after you gave me that info on the 55 RER post I had not too long ago. I understand this carb is a bit different than that carb, but still has the check ball you are talking about. I appreciate your input and idea. Any other avenues to look down?
Blake
The subject in question is called the fuel metering pin, not a ball, and it is in the idle circuit and non serviceable. However, I have soaked carb bodies in Zylol for a few days and that has loosened up the little devil. It's worth a shot to spend $8 or so and have it rattle, then a $100 maybe. Plus you have new parts to rebuild it.
Roger and Bob,
Thank you very much. I have ruled out carb. Rebuilt it 3 times and each time the bll does in fact rattle. I am now going to replace ignition components such as condensor to see if that gets me anywhere. Maybe the spark shows on a dry test, but when reinstalled in the block is too weak to make good combustion. Its just another theory, could be wrong. I also will readjust the valves and put a new head gasket on to make sure that I am getting good compression as well. When I can get to it, I will let everyone know if this makes any difference.
Blake
Thank you very much. I have ruled out carb. Rebuilt it 3 times and each time the bll does in fact rattle. I am now going to replace ignition components such as condensor to see if that gets me anywhere. Maybe the spark shows on a dry test, but when reinstalled in the block is too weak to make good combustion. Its just another theory, could be wrong. I also will readjust the valves and put a new head gasket on to make sure that I am getting good compression as well. When I can get to it, I will let everyone know if this makes any difference.
Blake
Could it be your gas cap vent is plugged
Kelvin,
None Issue, Left it loose on top of the tank. That was one of my first tests... like the KISS rule... Well latest update on it as of about a month ago, Replaced all of this and the ring gear for the flywheel had an issue and came loose of the flywheel, ruined the flywheel. So I located another used good condition flywheel that I am waiting for a free night to install and try again. Got all of the new ignition stuff on and carb has been drained while sitting waiting on me. Im hoping like crazy this takes care of it. There is a chance that maybe the prior flywheel was a little weak as well. I mean the magnet felt good, but I am down to guessing on this mower what it could be at this point. All the ignition stuff still looked as new as when we put it all in.....
I will update when I can tell more.
Thanks a lot to Roger, Bob, and Kelvin.
Blake
None Issue, Left it loose on top of the tank. That was one of my first tests... like the KISS rule... Well latest update on it as of about a month ago, Replaced all of this and the ring gear for the flywheel had an issue and came loose of the flywheel, ruined the flywheel. So I located another used good condition flywheel that I am waiting for a free night to install and try again. Got all of the new ignition stuff on and carb has been drained while sitting waiting on me. Im hoping like crazy this takes care of it. There is a chance that maybe the prior flywheel was a little weak as well. I mean the magnet felt good, but I am down to guessing on this mower what it could be at this point. All the ignition stuff still looked as new as when we put it all in.....
I will update when I can tell more.
Thanks a lot to Roger, Bob, and Kelvin.
Blake
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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