[sreynolds]

I recently purchased a fresh rebuilt 301 from a WFM member that does just that very same thing. Exact.

I complained about it after I had gotten it home and ran it a bit, but he insists it was a total rebuild done right and by a shop that does all his rebuilds he sells in his restored garden tractors.

It runs well, clean, burns only a tad of oil each time out over the two acres and the plug is clean. It smokes blue when hot and at a slow idle for five minutes or more. Outside of that it is a fine engine. I have used it now one season mowing and blowing...........

I'm not impressed by small gasoline engines anyway, so I don't expect it to be perfect. Like David said, the parts you buy kinda lack quality/stuck w/that.

The engine I replaced in one of my 212's was worn out and it never made any knocking sound from any component, hot/cold no load/fully loaded etc.

The old/worn rod I gave David to look at was from a worn out K series and it was not knocking in any way, never.

 

[mikeduwe]

Anyone reconize this piston? Kohler did not offer a 0.025" over piston, so is it .25mm or 0.010" over? Any idea on the brand?

Was going to put ring in since I have the pan and head already off, but not if I cant find out what piston it is.

 

[junderwood]

Mike,

Drop the piston down and measure the bore. Should tell you what you have. I would bet the noise is the loose balance gears. If the bore looks good and the rod seems tight I would crack the gears and get them out of there and bolt it back up. If you cross you fingers right it should be good to go.
John

 

[charms]

I have ordered .010 under aftermarket pistons and received pistons marked .25mm, which if exact .25mm, is .0098425, very close to .010 under.

 

[mikeduwe]

Gears are gone. Engine bolted back in the frame. Need to order a head gasket yet but can work on hooking everything back up in the meantime. Anticipating the next startup and will be listening with a close ear that's for sure.

 

[motiv8]

Wow, Mike,
those are some loose gears!! Got to be better w/ those gone. Many one cyl engs can get a camshaft "chucking" noise. I think it 's been already mentioned that happens on your series engs and the work to correct it was posted. Maybe you might try prying the shaft axially in different positions if you have access w/ pan off. Most engs don't need but .003-.004". Ck a manual for exact. David

 

[knottyrope]

you can see the wear on the gear teeth too

 

[cubby]

Looks like that gear was just about ready to launch, any that's usually not a pretty sight.

 

[sreynolds]

what are you guys looking at............

 

[knottyrope]

tractor porn

 

[KB]

I almost spit out beer on that one, almost.


Scott,
On the previous page there is a you tube link in the last post. It shows how sloppy the gears were.
Kb

 

[mikeduwe]

Gears=out. Engine=partially reinstalled in the tractor. Waiting on a magnetic drainplug and head gasket before it will be done.

Not sure what time it is there, but its only 4 here, not quite beer time yet...

If you want tractor porn, check out the show your 140 thread. Unless thats not your thing, then find the model of your liking.

 

[KB]

Mike,

It's 5 here. I usually have one after work while the dog eats and goes out. Good time to relax and make a plan for what chores to do. Tonight is finishing my bathroom circuit and laundry.

This whole site makes the grade for me, but the 140 thread is a great one

Kb

 

[adam_214]

Wow those gears do seem loose. I hope removing them cures the issue for you, I will be curious to know myself and we'll all learn something. I have heard a very similar rattle in a k321 I had that didn't have balance gears. The timing was not spot on and once new points and condenser were installed and timed correctly the rattle went away. Adam

 

[mikeduwe]

I wont touch the timing and will run it and see what happens.

Gears were definitely missing a couple of the shims they talk about in the manual, and were had at least 3 times over the end play spec.

 

[mikeduwe]

Posted the same in the 140 thread, but here it is here in this one too:

Resolution: it was NOT the balance gears making the noise. Was still there after I drove it for a few minutes. Opened up the points a bit more and went away, close them some and it came back.

Going to check the spark plug gap, but it looks like timing using the mark on the flywheel/gap at the points isn't ideal.

At least those loosy goosy gears are out now before they let go.

 

[428_pi]

Have a 71 140 with what sounded like a perfect engine two years ago. It sat and we we got it running this Winter to put a Johnson loader on. I noticed it wouldn't accelerate well and put on new points and condensor on. Accelerates well now but has an annoying rattle. I set points at.020 I think. Can incorrect point gap cause a rattle like this?

 

[mikeduwe]

Too early ignition can cause preignition and detonation also know as knock. Prolonged the engine will overheat or it will pound a hole in the piston.

Try opening up the points just a tad. Too far and you will start loosing power.

I set mine with the engine running and would close the up till I heard the rattle then opened them up some till it was gone. Too far open and it will start missing and dying.

I happened to not have the muffler on since I'm painting it so I could easily hear the engine tone change as I opened them up.

But too far it would start poping out of the exhaust right by my head.

I have an adjustable timing light so I'm going to see where timing is at now. And also measure the points gap.

 

[428_pi]

Thanks Mike. I'll try that. Yeah, it is more of a knock than a rattle.

 

[sreynolds]

Mike,

A fellow WFM member I bought a rebuilt K301 from informed me it is best to set points .018 for best performance. This would be opposite of what you are speaking of. This guys sells many items here on this site.

Just saying. Maybe this is just your particular application where adjusting them wider seems to help???

A narrow points gap would equal earlier timing and the wider gap equals a later timing???