[iouzilch]

I have a GT275 that I believe requires a little too much effort to start when it is cold (IE has not been running). This happens in the summer months and is exasperated in cooler weather. It has never failed to start eventually, but it does seem to take more cranking than it should.

Here is the routine that seems to work (eventually). Crank with full choke for 3 -5 seconds. Turn ignition off completely for 2-4 seconds. Then crank with partial to full choke. This process gets repeated. Sometimes I can smell gas as in flooded. Once started it will then restart quickly with just full choke.

If I remember correctly this MAY have started after I performed maintenance kit (spark plug, air filter, oil filter etc...) I did gap the spark plug according to the tech manual.

I think I kept the original spark plug under the seat...maybe I should try putting it back in.


Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

Art

 

[jdmaninlouky]

Perhaps a valve adjustment is in order.Just thinking . Dave

 

[iouzilch]

I found that if I manually move the choke linkage to further choke position I get better results. I will look into checking the choke adjustment.

I also found the info. below at the John Deere Answer Center https://jdagccc.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/90/~/kawasaki-engines---hard-starting-in-cold-weather

Question:Why is my Kawasaki engine hard to start in cold weather?Affected Equipment:160, 165, 175, 185, LT180, LT190, LTR180, LX172, LX178, LX178, LX188, LX277, LX279, LX280, LX289, GT235, GT245, GT242, GT262, GT275, GX255, GX335, GX345, GX325, GX335, GX345, X475, X575, X300, X304, X320, X324, X340, X500, X520, X534, X540, X700, X720, X724, X728, X729, Z445, Z465Answer:There are a variety of reasons including using the improper starting procedure, too slow cranking speed or an improper choke adjustment. Refer to the information below for details on these issues.

A. Proper Starting Procedure

Put the choke/throttle control lever control in full choke position.
Crank the engine for 5 seconds. If it does not start, pause for 10 seconds then crank for 5 more seconds.
Continue this 5 seconds on / 10 seconds off "cycle" until the engine starts. If the engine "fires" or tries to start, continue cranking beyond the 5 seconds until the engine starts.
Normal operating engines should start within:

10 cycles at -15 degrees F (-27 degrees C)
7 cycles at 0 degrees F (-18 degrees C)
4 cycles at 15 degrees F (9 degrees C).
NOTE: Following the above procedure will improve your starting performance and decrease the total cranking time. The 10-second pause allows the fuel in the intake manifold time to evaporate for improved combustion and also reduces the chances of flooding and muffler backfire.

When the engine starts, move the choke/throttle lever back gradually as the engine warms up. Excessive exhaust smoke or backfire will indicate that you are choking too much. The engine should be able to run without the choke within approximately 15 seconds, depending on the air temperature.

B. Proper Cranking Speed

Cranking speed should be at least 250 rpm for reliable starting. Possible reasons for slow cranking speed are:

Engine oil weight is too heavy. For cold temperatures use 5W-30 oil.
Battery output is too low. Charge the battery and have it load tested. See your John Deere Dealer as needed.
Battery or starter terminals are corroded. Remove and clean as needed. Do not overlook the battery ground cable connection to the engine or frame.
NOTE: To increase battery power in cold weather, turn the lights on (if equipped) for 5 seconds before cranking. Turn the lights back off when cranking.

C: The choke may not be adjusted properly

The choke plate must be COMPLETELY closed when the lever is in the choke position, and it must be COMPLETELY open when the lever is in the full throttle position.

A visual inspection of the choke plate position is NOT sufficient. The choke operating linkage must be tight when the lever is in full choke. The linkage must also be tight when the lever is backed off to the full throttle position.

I hope this helps someone else!
Art

 

[iouzilch]

Update_
I adjusted the throttle and choke according to the manual.
This morning in 26 degrees F the GT275 started after only two times of cranking. Before the adjustments this would have taken at least twice as long.

 

[jdmaninlouky]

Art -

You may also want to check your throttle shaft and bushing / bore for wear . If worn very much it will pull air in through the gaps , and effectively reduce the choke action by 'bypassing' any extra vacuum that the choke is supposed to produce . It doesn't take much of an air leak to defeat vacuum effort .

Just a thought ..., Dave

 

[tractorguy]

Just started to rebuild my K181 out of my 68? 110. While reading the Kohler manual it states to install the crank bearings with the seal in towards the engine. My bearings have no seals on them and appear to get oiled from the crankcase, anybody else have experience with this. I think I am going to leave bearings as is cause they seem ok. Just need to get the crank machined for a new rod and the cylinder bored for an oversized piston.

 

[Grant Baker]

Crank seals are separate from the bearings,I am going through the same thing right now and will be using new seals

 

[T-Mo]

Moved to proper forum.

 

[jcronk69]

Any Kohler K series I have ever seen were unsealed on the inside so they could be lubed by engine oil.
Seals are on the outside, and mine were separate from the bearings.