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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My JD 165 Hydro is not charging its battery. The battery is new, and I checked the stator per the manual and got zero voltage. So I changed the stator with one I bought off ebay (um, yeah) and I get the same reading. Both stators (the old and the new-old) both have 0.5 ohms resistance. Neither one puts out any voltage. Bad stators, or something else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
O.k., so I checked a little closer and got some advice form another forum and the Stator (both of them most likely) are good, putting out 38 VAC (not VDC as the manual implies). Anyway, it looks like I have a bad voltage regulator, which checked bad across more than one set of terminals. Anyone know a good source? I'm selling this tractor and I don't want to pour a bunch of money off my bottom line, but I don't want to sell someone a problem child either.
 

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Roy,
Wrong forum. The Hydrostatic Drive section here is for the 120, 140, 300, 312, 314, 316, 317, 318, 322, 330, 332, 400, 420 and 430 garden tractors. The lawn tractors belong in the Late Model section. Please repost this there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Silly me, posting a question about a hydrostatic tractor built prior to 1992 on the forum for hydrostatic tractors built prior to 1992.
 

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hey roy. i have a few regulators known good.. give me your address id be glad to send you one.
one grandpa to another: dont sweat the rudeness. Some folks dont know that there were tractors made between 1990 and last week. Some people have what my grand son calls" net balls" they like to pick on folks while hiding behind a keyboard. bet theyd never knitpick ya in a taproom man to man. Prolly some teenager hasnt learned his place yet. pay no mind. enjoy the day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No sweat, I really do have thicker skin than that. I was just pointing out the ambiguity of the forum's description. I
 

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My question is I got a flywheel coming for my kohler, but what if I feel like the crankshaft keyway is also a little wore? Is there anything a guy can try to make work? I know this depends on how bad it is but what if it iffy? Can u try file in groove, JB weld? Etc. Thanks for your suggestions. MATT
 

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Matt if the flywheel is installed correctly and torqued correctly you really shouldn't need the key. Many of the clone class kart racers around here don't use the key so they can change the ignition timing but they are very careful how they do the instalation. The key is just there to align things. You really need to start adding pictures of what things look like. Your concept of a little worn and mine could be different. My only worry would be if the taper on the crankshaft is worn also. How many hours was the bad flywheel used?? I suspect this all started when a previous owner used the wrong key or installed the flywheel incorrectly. Roger
 

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The keyway is probably okay but the scars on the crank scare me a bit. Make sure you have the right sized key not a universal one and try it. You may need to do more work with this like replacing the crankshaft. Roger
 

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Matt,as Roger pointed out the crank is not too good ,and the threads don,t look good either,,but before i would junk the crank .i would get some lapping compound and lap the flywheel to the crank and try to get 100%fit crank to flywheel .,when you do this besure you have all the compound off the shaft ,and flywheel ,and get some machinist blueing and wipe a small amount .on the shaft ,then push flywheel on with out key ,then rotate flywheel 1/4 turn ,remove flywheel ,and look to see how much blueing is in the bore of flywheel ,if you don,t have 100%,lap again ,till you get 100%,then get new key stock ,grind to fit bottom of ket to fit shaft shaft on the large part of shaft ,wipe all blueing off and install flywheel ,be sure the torque is right ,and the nut is good .hope this helps David
 

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got the key today. local kohler dealer does not carry new nut and washer. 5/8 x18 grade 2. so im going to resuse old one. it did originally just have nut and flat washer is that correct? thanks. torque 45-55.
 
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