[Itali83]

Hey guys, kind of scratching my head here. The 66 110 I bought this year has unknown hours on the motor. The long block is black so I know it’s been changed at some point. Motor tan great, no noises or vibrations. It had a blown head gasket but still ran fine when I got it. I replaced the head gasket and saw the cylinder was in good condition.
I just use it for a yard horse and let the kids drive it so no hard use or major hours put on it this past season. I did notice some silver showing on the dipstick. I changed the oil and kept an eye on it. After some use, I noticed silver collecting on the dipstick again. Not much but enough. I was banking on the big end of the rod starting to wear and that was that. Well, end of season my son and I pull the motor and I put it on my bench.

ive got the piston and rod out of it, I inspected the bore for wear visually; looks really good actually. Measured for wear and taper with a dial bore gauge, literally perfectly round and no wear per John Deere specs. Did the same for the rod and crank. All like new perfect. Not even close to worn our out of round measurements.

The cam lobes look fine, lifter faces show no wear and they rotate with every lift. I haven’t pulled the crank out to inspect main bearings but they have no play.

The motor had enough oil leaks and the blown head gasket for me to know it did have some hours on it and not literally just replaced and this is just normal break in metal. I didn’t see if it was magnetic which I regret. When I pulled the oil pan off, there wasn’t a film of silver on the bottom or anything alarming. I’ve got a picture of the dipstick with what I was seeing for metal for reference. I just can’t fathom what I’m missing here. Everything looks great.

my other 110 that I put a freshly rebuilt k181 in has crystal clear oil and wasn’t doing this so I know something is going on, but not sure what just yet.

not trying to blow my own horn, but I’m a 20 year diesel tech who’s rebuilt and diagnosed literally 100’s of 10 liter and bigger diesels for a living. I’ve seen a lot of crazy stuff and just when you think you’ve seems it all, something new pops up so I’m throwing this out there to see if anyone else has any ideas or run into this before.
Thanks!
Ben

 

[TiredDeere210]

Do the crank bearings feel smooth when rotating?

 

[TempletonJDguy]

I’d polish the crank, put a new rod in it, measure (& replace?) rings, hone and reassemble. I’m sure that’s what you were thinking anyway!🤣😉

 

[5540jd]

Looks like rod is trying to gald on crank. Polish crank and get new rod. Make sure to get proper size per crank journal.

 

[Itali83]

Do the crank bearings feel smooth when rotating?

yes everything is smooth. No play of stiffness.

 

[Itali83]

I’d polish the crank, put a new rod in it, measure (& replace?) rings, hone and reassemble. I’m sure that’s what you were thinking anyway!🤣😉

while I’ve got it apart I’m for sure going t dingle ball the cylinder and re-ring it. Everything is standard size in this motor.

I’ve heard that you can’t get genuine Kohler rods anymore and the quality of aftermarket rods can be hit or miss?

I’m not arguing but if I pulled and checked a rod bearing on a big motor with actual bearings and it looked like this rod does, I wouldn’t think twice about running it. There is no deep groove and it mic’s in spec and round. I just hate to put an aftermarket piece in there if not needed. If you guys know I can still get a Kohler piece then I will do it anyway.
Also, what do you guys use to polish the crank? I’ve used fine Emory cloth before, even scotch brite. What’s your preference?

thanks!
Ben

 

[TempletonJDguy]

I’m no expert,.. there’s a couple wizards on here but they hang out with the 400 threads. Aluminum oxide 400 paper and the loop string method is what I use. I wouldn’t be scared at all of an aftermarket rod, hard to figure out what is quality and what isn’t though. I can’t tell you if the rod is good or not but it doesn’t look great from the pic.

 

[DEERE317]

Here’s a place to get a plethora of K181 parts.

By Engine Model - Kohler K141, K161, K181 - Page 1 - iSaveTractors

isavetractors.com

 

[TempletonJDguy]

Here’s a place to get a plethora of K181 parts.

By Engine Model - Kohler K141, K161, K181 - Page 1 - iSaveTractors

isavetractors.com

& Norm does extensive testing of his products. If theirs anyone to blindly trust it’s him.

 

[DEERE317]

& Norm does extensive testing of his products. If theirs anyone to blindly trust it’s him.

Few companies that are willing to install and use their components on camera. And I think he has our farm beat for overusing small tractors…

 

[drew]

Rods are still plentiful.

Kohler Connecting Rods | High Performance Connecting Rod

We have aftermarket and genuine Kohler Original Equipment connecting rods priced below our competitors. Shop at PSEP.biz for fast and flat rate shipping!

www.psep.biz

 

[tommyhawk]

Wonder if Kohler still manufactures the rods for the old K series? Or to they have them made offshore?
tommyhawk

 

[DEERE317]

NOS/inventory perhaps?

 

[Itali83]

I’ve ordered from isavetractors before and I really like that they are literally from two towns over. Just sad that I can’t go there and direct pick up but oh well. I just ordered a complete rebuild kit and will hone the cylinder, polish the crank and put a new rod, piston, rings and all gaskets and seals to it.
Ben

 

[dieselimes]

while I’ve got it apart I’m for sure going t dingle ball the cylinder and re-ring it. Everything is standard size in this motor.

I’ve heard that you can’t get genuine Kohler rods anymore and the quality of aftermarket rods can be hit or miss?

I’m not arguing but if I pulled and checked a rod bearing on a big motor with actual bearings and it looked like this rod does, I wouldn’t think twice about running it. There is no deep groove and it mic’s in spec and round. I just hate to put an aftermarket piece in there if not needed. If you guys know I can still get a Kohler piece then I will do it anyway.
Also, what do you guys use to polish the crank? I’ve used fine Emory cloth before, even scotch brite. What’s your preference?

thanks!
Ben

Check out Insavetractors.com they have complete oem rebuild kits. I bought the kit for a k341 it's really good quality. Good luck on project keep us posted

 

[Gavins 210]

I’ve ran isavetractor kits in several of my tractors, one other thing is I’d put new valve guides in while you have it that far apart, I went cheep once and didn’t put them in and that tractor still has a lot of blow by and it also burns some oil.
I don’t think the guides are included in the kit but not a bad price from isavetractors.

 

[Itali83]

So I’ve taken the motor apart and found no smoking gun for the silver oil. The big end of the rod is visually worn slightly (looks totally fine to me) and I measured it to be well within spec. Main bearings are great, cam, lifters and governor unit are all fine. So, I got my new rod, rings, piston, and gasket/seal kit and started prepping the block for reassembly. I got the cylinder honed and double checked for taper and round. Very happy with the crosshatch and the measurements. See the picture. Also, cleaned the intake valve of carbon, cleaned the deck and started scrapping gaskets off the block.

I also found the terminal for the points wire to be completely broken off. Somehow the points cover was pressing the terminal and the wire together to make contact. This motor was running and never skipped a beat somehow! I’ll fix this as the points are in great shape and genuine Kohler.

I’m going to measure ring gap next and then go to town on reassembly. Two of my boys are helping me take this apart and put it back together. It’s a fun project for sure.
Ben