K181s main bearings

865 Views 13 Replies 7 Participants Last post by grant_baker, Dec 19, 2014

mljenson

Discussion Starter · Jun 30, 2012

My LT 133 runs great when cool but when it gets warm if I set the parking break and release, the engine dies. It will start back up and run fine if I have the break set but will die again as soon as I release the break. It also spits and coughs in reverse when warm. I tried a new parking break switch and temporarily bypassed the seat switch. Problem continued. Any ideas?

Save

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

Grant Baker

· #2 · Dec 17, 2014

I am starting to rebuild my 110's motor,I went to the bearing shop yesterday with the original main bearings in hand.The best that he could come up with was a set of sealed bearings of the same dimensions.
Will the sealed bearing work,or do they need to be oil bathed bearings?

Thanks,
Grant

Save

tommyhawk

· #3 · Dec 17, 2014

They need to be open on both sides to let the oil lubricate and cool the bearings.

tommyhawk

Save

sreynolds

· #4 · Dec 17, 2014

These are very common bearings. If they cannot supply, then they are not trying.

Go to Ebay and you can buy different name brands. They MUST be like the originals, open. Not shielded in any way.

Go to NAPA, John Deere if you want to pay twice/three times what they should cost. Any engine rebuilder with have them etc,etc

Save

hundojoe

· #5 · Dec 17, 2014

Couldn't you just pull the seals out?

Save

sreynolds

· #6 · Dec 17, 2014

probably....(?)good question. One would have to degrease the bearing.

You can phone my supplier at 419 337 1548 45.00 per set. Fits K241 K301 K321 etc.etc.

Save

hundojoe

· #7 · Dec 17, 2014

I would think that leaving the grease in the bearing would help keep it lubricated on initial start up, the hot engine oil should be more then enough to degrease and flush out the bearing once running.

Save

Grant Baker

· #8 · Dec 17, 2014

Thanks guys!
Talked to my guy,and he suggested the same thing "pull the seals out" thanks Joe,and I also believe that the grease will be left in,as it will be changed quickly after rebuild.
Scott,I guess I did better then your supplier,they were only $40CDN for the pair

Save

sreynolds

· #9 · Dec 17, 2014

I threw in a ten dollar tip though...LOL

Save

Grant Baker

· #10 · Dec 17, 2014

*LMAO*

Save

woodpecker41

· #11 · Dec 17, 2014

Grant is there some reason you are replacing the bearings. I have had a lot of Kohlers apart since the 1970s. I don't think I have ever replaced a bearing primarily because they are a smooth running bearing that lives totally bathed in oil. There isn't much to wear them out. If it makes you feel better do it. Roger

Save

Grant Baker

· #12 · Dec 17, 2014

That's it Roger,peace of mind

Although mine seem to be a bit gritty even after a kerosene bath.

I just want everything to be perfect when I'm done,is all

Save

mark_b

· #13 · Dec 18, 2014

in the service manual It states to press in the bearings shielded side up or in. bearings must not be exposed to engine crankcase oil???? I also am in the process of rebuilding two K181 Kohler engines and both had shielding on one side of the bearings facing the crank , so this post is interesting. could the manual be wrong or???

Save

Grant Baker

· #14 · Dec 19, 2014

I haven't read "reassembly" yet,and I can't remember which way they faced when I took it apart. But it doesn't make sense to expose the shielded side the crankcase oil.Guess I have some reading to do

Save

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month