Jim most are 15 amps which leaves you only a bit left with the lights on. Roger
K321 amperage
could someone tell me what a 69 k321 puts out for amperage?... im looking to install some accessories but im not sure what is leftover in terms of watts if i remember correctly its amps x volts = watts.
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thanks roger... i was thinking of installing a muffin fan under the hood to help with airflow across the cylinder fins jim
Jim, a low amperage fan should not be a problem unless you run for long periods with the lights and PTO on. And I'm curious, why the fan? The old Kohlers had good air flow and I've never heard of overheating problems if the screen and cooling fins are kept clear of debris. And good clean oil of the proper viscosity.
Stan
Stan
hi stan, well as u know in n.e. it gets pretty hot (90F+) and being an air cooled engine i figured that maybe i could reroute the exhaust and install a 120 cfm draw through fan on the belt guard of the 140. do you think this could be beneficial or a waste of time ? any input ? thanks jim
Jim it would be a waste of time. You need to remember that air cooled motors run hotter than water cooled ones. Look up on Google how hot airplane motors run. If you are that nervous use synthetic oil instead. My 214 has a little over 800 hours on it and has run all of them on 30 weight in the Summer and 10W 30 in the Winter. This is on plain old petroleum oil not synthetic.. My only change from factory suggested maintenance is I change at 10 hours instead of 25 hours. Oil is cheap and on an engine without a filter oil changes are the only way to get the dirt out. Roger
Jim, I agree with Roger. In my opinion adding a fan would not significantly affect the operating temperature and would put an additional load on the stator and regulator. Just make sure the timing is within specs and the carb is adjusted properly. Retarded timing and/or a lean mixture will make the engine run hotter than normal and shorten its life.
Stan
Stan
when i took off the air shroud of the k-321 i found what appeared to be the remaines of some type of weather stripping material aparently to help direct the air flow accross the fins rather than out of the cluch opening is this correct ? i thought it would be p.n. m43112 (seal) but when i spoke with dealership i was told that m43112 was an engine seal ?
thanks for the info regaurding the fan sounds like good advice ... i figure after i install the engine i could try a test ...what ill do is run the engine with a 120v 130cfm fan drawing through and out the front grill as the tractor sits take temp readings then try without fan and take same temp readings just to see if their is a significant tempature differance i will post my findings (although i do tend to agree with you guys the engine itself would probably move more air than 120 cfm)
Hey Jim, just rerouting the exhaust will help with cooling, even though that wouldn't be necessary like Stan and Roger are saying. Otherwise, the engineers at Deere originally would have designed it that way. I think the early 140's, '69's like ours are actually 10 amp anyway. I'm going to shoot my exhaust straight out the left side through a 5"x 1" iron nipple to an upright muffler that I got through eBay just because it looks cool like the bigger tractors and will be more free flowing. I'm not concerned with 100% concours, so freeing up the front space where the exhaust used to make a sharp turn to the factory muffler will only let the top engine shroud draw in cooler air. I was actually going to post a question to the list about whether there were plugs anywhere on the low side to the Sundstran hydro. I could tap into them to run lines to an oil radiator to fill that space where the old muffler was, making the front grill more functional- a real radiator grill! I would be more concerned about overworking the hydro oil in the summer than overheating the engine.
Cheers,
Stephen
Cheers,
Stephen
Hi Stephen. Although moving the muffler will get some heat away from the front of the engine (radient heat from the muffler), you won't be "drawing in" cooler air. All the Kohler engines draw the cooling air in from the flywheel side of the engine and blow it around and over the engine to the PTO side. That is why there is a screen on the flywheel (or in the case of a 140, a screened can). My thought is that putting an air to oil cooler up where the muffler used to be might not be a good idea though either. It would be getting engine heated air blowing through it which might actually heat the hydro oil up more, and depending on how you duct it, it might start restricting airflow away from the engine, possibly overheating the engine. The late 300 series tractors (318) that had a trans oil cooler had it mounted back by the flywheel, so that it was getting cooled air drawn through it. At least these are a couple of things to think about.
Kent
Kent
Yes Kent, you are right. I stand corrected. I thought about that after I posted. I remember how I got a blast of wind when looking from the front of the tractor. That would not happen if it drew the air in. That would be a fan on a car, the opposite. There is such a big void once you take that muffler out that if you put one of those Hayden flat transmission oil coolers as far forward as you can, the wind blowing off the top of that Kohler woudn't be so hot that it would still help cool it.
Cheers,
Stephen
Cheers,
Stephen
Hey guys,
One other thing to remember is this, those engines are designed to give optimum performance at those temps as well. They had been designed to take the heat, without any distortion. If you try and cool it any more than what it already does, I think you will run into problems with it's performability.
One other thing to remember is this, those engines are designed to give optimum performance at those temps as well. They had been designed to take the heat, without any distortion. If you try and cool it any more than what it already does, I think you will run into problems with it's performability.
Hello people..i will try to take an airflow reading in cfm at the intake screen and post it fyi (engine is out of tractor at this time) first with no shroud seal then with one installed. ....the cooler this beast runs the longer life it will have ...i dont think over cooling this engine would be an issue...if this engine was water cooled i would think it would have a much longer service life...jim
hi stephen i like the idea of the cooling coil for the hydro its just a matter of finding the right spot for it ....i wonder if over heating the hydro is an issue.....how hot does the fluid get ? jim
Hi Jim. My personal thought on the hydro oil is that if you think that you are running in conditions that warm, you might try synthetic oil (that meets the spec's of JD Low-Vis HyGard oil) since it holds up better than dino oil. I also think that the fin type oil coolers that the 400 & late 300/400 series have were more than likely because those tractors have power steering running off of the hydro, so they would more than likely run a higher temp because of more "use" to the hydro oil (those hydro units also run a higher PSI in the implement circuit b/c of the power steering, and that too will make the oil run hotter). Also, the early tractors (120-317) do have the long suction tube that is also used to help cool the oil, so it isn't like they have nothing in that area. I know that with my 140 the rear housing does get warm when plowing or doing other high drawbar load work, but I can still put my hand on it and not get burned (if that was the case, I would run synthetic oil). That is my .02 cents anyway.
Kent
Kent
hi kent if you can put your hand on the housing then i would not think the temp is an issue... man no wonder why these hydros are bullet proof its like their not even working ...jim
I haven't measured the temperature of the hydro oil, Jim. So far, I've only used one implement at a time, either the deck or the 54" blade. Seeing that these haven't put a big strain on the hydro, the oil cooler or syn oil might be okay only if we lived down in Arizona or New Mexico. I'm a little anal retentive with my bikes and cars, so being no different with this newly acquired tractor, I've gotta ask Kent Ortman this question. I've got one of those Hayden oil coolers laying around. Could it be plumbed into the long suction tube that you mentioned? If you're running multiple hydraulic implements, this probably can hurt and would increase capacity at the same time.
Cheers,
Stephen
Cheers,
Stephen
Hi Stephen. On a 120-317 tractor, the "cooling tube" is also the suction line that feeds the charge pump. So, if the cooler you are mentioning would add much resistence, I'm not sure about doing that (as it might starve the pump for oil). On the later tractors that have a dedicated cooler, it is plumbed into the return line from the power steering/implement control valve, so the cooled oil is under some pressure and is then dumped back into the rearend housing after being cooled.
Kent
Kent
I bought an X500 a couple of years ago and keep thinking about adding either a front blade or the tractor shovel. Other than price differences, what are the thoughts on one over the other? Thanks in advance!
David
David
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