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#5??? Choke wide open implies not engaged at all...not fully engaged.
IME at best you will get inconsistent readings and risk damaging your arm/shoulder. When I tried this on a 214 rehab some years ago, I did the thumb over spark plug hole test instead and checked valves (ok) and head gasket integrity instead. Then decarboned the head and piston just in case. Quit stumbling after that, but mine wasn't bad enough to choke/kill the engine with PTO engaged...so may not be a valid comparison. If you do the comp test, rely on a set of young arms/shoulders!

 

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The PTO sheave is what engages to the crank, where the deck belt goes on/rides. And if it's got decent compression, you'll be hard pressed to hit 1000 rpm jerking it clockwise with a rope...even with the plug out. Be careful of the rope knot, they sting.

 

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Could you provide some explanation about this: "When I tried this on a 214 rehab some years ago, I did the thumb over spark plug hole test instead and checked valves (ok) and head gasket integrity instead. "

I tried the compression check method posted earlier from the manual by TiredDeere210. Had a hard time getting any grip on the PTO sheave (manual PTO) with a rope and wore out my arm...only to get below-par compression values. So I reverted to my basic compression test...pull the plug, put your thumb/finger over the hole and spin the engine over. If you can't keep the hole covered...ie. compression pushes your thumb/finger off...it has decent compression. So I moved on to checking the valves, pulling the head and decarboning the engine. New head gasket, clean underneath and it ran much better. It never had a dying problem to begin with though. I was just being fussy I guess.

That is an interesting idea 'spinning the crank backwards to keep the ACR out of the picture'. In theory it matters not which way direction the crank is rotating as long as both valves are closed during the compression stroke, right?

I have no clue...just following the manual's advice. You can also disable the ACR, which isn't too hard to do. Learned this by watching an online video about a complete Kohler rebuild...don't have that link though. IIRC I found it by GoogleMachining "Kohler ACR Compression Test" or some similar search string. What I remember about that is you remove a cover on the block, look inside with a flashlight and you can see the spring that is part of the ACR...which you remove or unhook to disable the auto ACR. Of course I discovered that AFTER I decided the 214 was okay and didn't feel inclined to have another go at it. Someone with Kohler chops on the board can likely answer your question about crank rotation for compression checks.
Unless this is brain fart Monday, I believe I have always done compression tests on carbed engines with the throttle plate wide open...which is why I earlier questioned item #5 about closing the choke completely.

 

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Electric PTO then...lead away Tommyhawk.

 

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I think you should check the resistance of the field coil on your electric PTO clutch, because it recovers and runs well when you shut the PTO off...plus check the ignition switch as well. I suspect the field coil is toast or shorted after x-amount of run time. IIRC the correct resistance reading should be 2 to 5.

 

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You will need a preferably digital multi-meter, a not too expensive and quite useful tool. There are a series of vids on Youtube showing you how to test components with it...like the one posted above. You can get a good meter for less than $30 if you don't already have one. A resistance test will tell you if the PTO field coil is in spec/good. I would also pull and check the ignition switch and plug as mentioned in an earlier post. Doesn't sound like you have a fuel or compression problem, since the tractor only acts up and dies after the PTO has been engaged awhile. A malfunction in the PTO circuit can cause exactly what you describe...the key indicator is that it doesn't occur with the PTO NOT engaged. Maybe Chuckv will find this thread and explain how to get a good meter and use it for different tests...he's one of the forum's electrical gurus/guides. Don't give up on your 214, they are great machines.

 

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Yes, the Facet electric pumps are nice. Seems quality replacements for the stock metal pumps are getting hard to find...just like carburetors. I keep a Facet pump around the shop, too...handy to have for project machines.

 

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Easy way to live with the lazy stock pump problem is to put an outboard motor squeeze bulb in the line...pump the bulb 2-3 times to prime the pump, hit Start and Bob's yer uncle!
Just watch the morning caffeine jolt if you rely on that...a big shot can mess with your heartbeat/pulse...don't ask how I know that. A better option is a small bottle of your fav fruit juice, with pulp...real juice, not juice-drink. I favor grape juice, which really pops my taste buds for some reason. Then a slow infusion of weak-sister chicory coffee after breakfast (more fresh fruit when you can get it, plus staple like eggs, meat etc).

 

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True enough...kits still available? IIRC the diaphragm is the main component and some springs...been a few years since I had one apart.

 

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Good to know...good folks to deal with, too.