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K321 Kohler carb question - installation

4250 Views 11 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  birddog
I have rebuilt the carb for my engine and need to install it back on the engine block. It's been so long since I took it off I'm having a little trouble remembering the sequence of how it goes back on. I have the small, side heat shield or deflector as its called in the parts manual (M43111), a thick gasket (M47509), and a thin gasket (M43131). I don't see the need for both of the gaskets unless the deflector fits between them. By the way, does anyone know if any of the deflectors are still available from JD? Thanks in advance for anyone that can help. Almost forgot to let anyone know that this is for a 1971 140 H1 (serial #34631).
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Gonna try to post a couple of pics that might help

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Ryan, the thick gasket provides insulation to prevent excessive heat transfer to the carburetor, and the thin gasket seals the carburetor flange.
Thanks for the info guys. So Stan, I understand you correctly that both gaskets are definitely needed? The thick gasket fits against the engine block and the thin gasket goes between the carburetor flange and the thick gasket? The service manual refers to a single gasket. I may be making more out of it, but I just want to make sure I install it correctly. Thanks.

Kohler told me to use 2 thin gaskets with the insulating spacer in between. Also, don't overtorque the screws; it is easy to warp or break the carb flange with the insulating spacer installed. Kenny
Thanks Kenny. I'll try that. I'm assuming the K-series service manual specifies the amount of torque. I'll check my manual. Thanks again everyone. Ryan
Hi Guys,

I just rebuilt the carb on my 14hp Kohler... Put it on last night. My gasket came with a thick insulator type material with a paper gasket affixed to either side.

Does anyone know the torque for the carb to block? My manual has a generic "torque" spec for size of bolts in the front of it but I counldn't find one for the carb.

Also, don't forget to put the choke linkage on BEFORE you install the carb to the block... I forgot that and am going to have to redo it tonight.....

PS: there is also a gasket between the air filter housing and the carb....

Ryan yes, Deere calls the thick insulator a gasket so you need that and the normal thin gasket. The insulator has gasket material on both sides.

The carb bolts don't need to be very tight but you should verify that the carb flange is not warped, which is common due to excessive tightening. Place a straight edge across the flange at the bolt holes and if you see light between the edge and the flange you should lap it flat. No matter how tight you torque the bolts it won't make up for a warped flange.
I've got a 2004 LT 160 105 hrs 42" Freedom Deck that my son uses to mow our lawn and the hydro is very touchy.When trying to feather the pedal it jerks the mower forward and does not smooth out until you apply a more constant pressure to the pedal.I guess my question is can it be adjusted?
Look for a broken bracket that helps support the trans-axle , or loose / broken axle to frame members . Had a LT-166 with that problem .
Well finally got around to looking at my LT no cracks or broken brackets but I decided to check the shock absorber and sure enough there was zero resistance.I placed my order and will be installing it after vacation.Hope that tames the beast.I have a 322 that feels like your riding a mechanical bull that's going to need some attention next.DAVID,Thanks for giving me a starting point for my search of the culprit.
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