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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
Have been wrenching on a 265 for a family member and have run into what I think is a fuel pump / vacuum issue. I had the tractor running yesterday after a fuel pump rebuild (new diaphragms / rubber plugs / gaskets) and it ran pretty good after sitting for at least three or four years. I ran it yesterday from a small can of gas because the tank shutoff needed to be cleaned. So today I figured it would be ready for me to replace the fuel lines which were cracked and put the tank back on. Well I did this and then put gas in the tank and nothing...It will run if I put a little gas down the carb but that darn fuel pump will not pump a drop of gas out of the tank or a can. I took the fuel pump apart twice because I have been beating my head against the wall here and no dice. The fuel pump is clear and the diaphragms are intact. I checked the vacuum at the crankcase and it has vacuum so I don't think that was the issue. I had everything clamped off so I don't think I was sucking air anywhere. I just don't get why it worked great yesterday but today nada. One question I have is does the system have to be primed somehow for it to create the vacuum? Also, how many quarts of oil does the 17hp FC540V Kawasaki take? I read the Deere specs and it says 2.1 with a filter change but on the dip stick it seems way over. Do you check the oil on these with the stick screwed in or just sitting on the top of the tube? I am thinking if I overfilled the crankcase it could hamper the vacuum effect but I don't know? Any advice any of you guys have would be appreciated! I just wanna see this Deere brought back to life since the owner had neglected it for some years. Thanks guys!
 

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Justin,

I would check the fuel pickup in the gas tank. The pickup tube could be bad or plugged.

You are supposed to check the engine oil with the dipstick just sitting on top. If it is over full I would drain some oil until it is correct.

George of Buford
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey George,
Thanks for the response, I did end up pulling the pickup out of the tank and cleaning the shutoff valve. That was corroded but still clear, so went back to the drawing board. I ended up looking at the parts diagram on jdparts and figured out the issue. It was the fuel pump after all. The rebuild kit I got for it came with four gaskets and only three needed to be used...doah. I didn't realize but the diaphragm on the intake side only needs one gasket as opposed to the outlet side where the diaphragm is sandwiched between two. So I took the gasket off of the back and started pumping fuel like no tomorrow. So I put all the lines back on and started right up.
 

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My 214 Won't throttle up unless warm and even then it tries to die out but once it's throttled up it runs fine it won't run at half throttle At all the carb is very clean its ben in my ultrasonic cleaner 3 times and I rebuilt it It is the Kholer carburator
 

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I don't know if you used the manual settings for high speed and idle screws. It suggests 2 turns out on the high speed screw, 2 1/2 turns on the idle screw, and then readjust to fine tune after the engine warms up. It may also be an electrical issue. Is the reason you pulled the carb because it was running poorly? Have you owned this tractor for awhile or did you just purchase it? I'm sure we can probably get it fixed up for you. Just keep the info flowing so we can get a picture in our head about what it's doing.
 

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I bought the tractor from a guy it had ben sitting outside for 3 years non running if I pull out the choke and throttle it up then push the choke back in it won't die out like usual and when I pull the spark plug it is black
 

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That makes me wonder why the PO parked it and didn't use it. Unless you have a fair amount of experience with these engines you could be looking at a lengthy troubleshooting period. Most of all, don't get frustrated. If you are wanting to make this a reliable machine, you need to do a fair amount of testing and will need to purchase a few things probable. Do you have a manual? It can be downloaded from this site in the wfmfiles section. SM2105 is the one you will need. Are you familiar with these engines and are you mechanically inclined? I had a lot to learn when I first purchased my 212 and I'm a mechanic by trade. I did like you and came to this website. I used the search option often and spent endless hours researching. I've still got a long way to go to catch up with Roger and some of the others but I'm getting there.
 

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If the spark plug is black, that would indicate a rich fuel mixture or burning oil. Not trying to be a SA but a loose throttle shaft would cause a lean fuel condition. If I was you Ean, I would replace the plug with a Champion H-10C and replace the points and condenser as well with Kohler brand only. When I purchase one of these older machines, that is the first thing I do. Set the points to .020. Hope that helps.
 

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It has new points condenser and coil No I don't have the manual yes I am pretty mechanically inclined it dose burn a little oil I adjusted the carb today and it's a lot better not perfect but better now I'm going to start working on the variator if it's all the way back it won't move and when I push it forward it goes at 1 speed and it feels limp and dose not variate speed so it's all or nothing
 

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The manual is an invaluable source for information and can be downloaded for free from this site. The variator center sheave half is probably frozen. After removing the belts, some PB Blaster will help loosen it up. Any remaining oil residue will need to be cleaned from the sheave halves so that it doesn't get on the belts.
 

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I thought I had it until I dicided to move it at full throttle I started missing smoking black smoke and had no power I returned it to idle ran fine half throttle ran fine I think the carburator needs a new shaft I think I'm going to purchase a new carburator of ebay when I get some other stuff for it
 

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It sounds to me like you may have excessive air entering thru the throttle shaft. There is a fix using a brass bearing (washer) at the top of the throttle shaft. It takes a little care but saves a lot of $. I would also check the governor linkage.
 
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