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K341 carb on a k301

689 Views 10 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  grant_baker
Any issues? Fitment seems fine
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The bigger carb from the k341 will bolt right onto the k301 & operate good but when the rpms pull against the governor, the throttle butterfly doesn't open much & it does hurt the overall power. The carb opens up just a bit to reach proper rpm even under load while the smaller carb will open up all the way & produce more & better power under load.
I've seen guys in the pulling sport try it over & over again oversizing the carb for the cubic inch it's on & it never works out on a goverened rpm class.
I dont doubt what Kyle says. But the carb works great on my bro's K301 in his 312. There is a 1/8" plastic spacer used as a heat sink to keep heat off the carb. A 4 mm larger butterfly should not interfere with using the larger carb on the smaller motor. He also smoothed the intake runner under the carb base as well. Removed only the material to smooth the intake.
Well i tried and didnt work for me...pulled the good 341 carb off my 16hop engine and bolted on the 301 12 hp. didnt have a spacer jsut a gasket...however always seemed too rich and never could get enough air. and smoked.

Put the 301 carb back on and all is well

PS spacer was 8.00 at JD dealer......4.00 at AGWAY power shop
The battery light came on one day. I continued to mow a few more times, and as I expected, the battery went dead. It actually lasted longer than I thought, but now I need to fix it. Anyone ever ran into this and hopefully it is a fix I can do here and not have to take it to the dealer. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
You need to find a service manual and do the test for the electrical system that the manual tells you in the right order to isolate your problem. The parts are to expensive to throw at the problem. Could be many things including ignition switch, stator, voltage regulator (sometimes called rectifier), wiring, fuses and on and on. Maybe the dealer depending on your relation ship with them would copy the parts of the manual you need. At least offer to pay for the copies. Roger
Thank you for your input on my situation. I can agree with you wholeheartedly "throwing parts at it" is not the answer. In my 31 years in the automobile repair business I have never been an advocate of that and in all reality it is actually ,in most cases, cheaper to let the Dealer take a look and diagnois the problem.
I do know that in a lot of cases , the concern that the customer brings to you, has occured before on "another" repair situation and this reference can be used to help repair the problem you are up against.
Basically my original question was, had anyone ever ran into this before? Sometimes it can be said that, for example the Blue wire under the battery in the left harness may have been a reoccuring problem, or a plug becomes corroded over time , or a short here or a open there,etc...
That is actually what I was looking for. Just took a shot that someone had run into this before and there was a "simple fix". Otherwise Ill move to plan B. Thanks again for the input.
Roy I agree with what you are saying but with JD it seems it could be any of the problems you described. That is why the service manual and testing in the order the manual says points you in the right direction. If you want to try simple things I would open every wire connection/plug and clean the terminals one at a time and put them back on with grease to prevent oxidation from happening. That may solve it and if not it is good preventive maintenance. I had a electrical problem with my 345 and tried all the tricks I know. Finally what the dealer found was the fusible link in the tractor had a part time open in it. As you said just because it is a lawn mower doesn't make it any simpler than some of the modern automobile. Roger
Roy Fisher I will try to help you out without telling you to go buy a manual first! I have seen this problem a lot at the dealership. It is most likely the voltage regulator. But again I don't have 9892 post either like some guys on here. Email me and I will send you a troubleshooting page out of the manual.

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Roy,I had the battery light on on my LX277 for near a year at low rpm's,after a year though it would not go out at high rpm's.o It always started though,but I changed the battery and haven't had the light come on in over a year now.The only other thing I've had to do the LX277 besides oil changes was to change out the coils
Don't know if this will help or not

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