[kencombs]

I have a 455 with a leaky steering cylinder that I haven't been able to get rebuilt correctly. So, I'm on the hunt for a good used one. I've found that there are a couple of different PN's for different years. AM123017 fits the later s/n, but it appears the only difference in the two is the size of the locating pin that enters the axle. If so, could one be subbed for the early model if the pin was changed? or the axle hole bushed?

The mounting nuts are the same as are the hoses. So the only possible difference that I can see would be that pin.

Anyone have any experience with this???

 

[jdmaninlouky]

Ken -

Many on here have parts for the 4x5 series . I suggest you simply place a wanted ad for the cylinder , with the dimention of the hole the pins fit in , and maybe even a picture with dimentions of what you need . Heck I may even end up selling you one , as I have a parts 425 - '96 model yr . 'wink-wink'

Mods ; this is not one of those "thinly veiled" advertisements you guys speak of so negatively . That would be totally illegal

Dave

 

[kencombs]

Well, as it turns out my spare cylinder is on it's way back, repaired. So, I'll wait on any other purchase til' I get to try it out.

 

[keithf]

Hi folks, has any-one researched using the model 44 loader on a 425/445/455?

I am aware the model 40 loader is the correct model for the 425/445/455.

I have a 420 with 44 loader - am considering buying a 455 and moving the loader over.

I'd think there would be at least 2 areas to check:

1. Mounting the 44 loader mid-pto pump to the 455 - are the frame rails the same to attach the pump bracket - are the mid pto shaft splines the same - etc?

2. Attaching the 44 loader subframe to the 455 - does it bolt to the front frame rails easily - does it bolt to the rear axle easily - etc?

Thoughts? Thank you!

 

[woodpecker41]

II personally would contact a JD sales or parts department and ask if it can be done and if so what needs to be replaced. If you have an AG dealer would be the best place to ask. Roger

 

[jdjake49]

Keith,

You can hook the loader cylinders directly to the tractor remote hydraulic couplings for a 445 or 455. You will need to add the couplings to a 425.

Attaching the 44 loader to a 4X5 will require a chop saw and a welder. They are not compatible.

George of Buford

 

[keithf]

I appreciate the replies gents! Rats, was hoping it was a bolt up and go move! Oh well. Thank you!

 

[harbertm]

I think you will find that selling your 44 loader should be an easy task. You will also find it rewarding to purchase a 40 loader for the newer machine because of its easy mounting and dismounting. No more need to have one tractor per implement!

Best part, they are about the same value in my area.

 

[sreynolds]

Not impressed with the assist when installed and adjusted on a 212 w/twin extension 31 tiller.

I was informed that the assist spring, when properly set, will "float the tiller" and there is "no effort" to raise it.

My spring is not broken. It require quite a load of effort to lift this unit. I *did* move the lift rod from the upper hole to lower hole on the tractor's lift pivot and that helped some but, I still struggle with lifting this.

Sounds pretty much normal?

I didn't measure the length of the adjust bolt, but it came with assembly and it is very long, like 6 to 8 inches. It completely compresses the spring when the bolt is turned in to the bolt head.

BTW, the install is insane. What a job that was....wow. Solid 4 hours!

W/O detailed instructions, you simply guess and then found the front pin must be shimmed.....after I had this installed.

 

[woodpecker41]

You adjust it by adjusting the bolt. If it doesn't seem to help turn it the other way. My 214 the tiller was never easy to lift even with a helper spring. Roger

 

[sreynolds]

OK, that helps. Thanks.

The assembly was apart when I bought it and so I installed that bolt and kept turning it and turning it until I ran out of thread and the spring was compressed tightly. It never got to the point it was effortless like I was told.

 

[littlehoot]

IIRC if you have compressed the spring, you have gone the wrong way. The spring should be compressed by the lowering of the tiller and it should "push" with you to raise the tiller.

 

[sreynolds]

Correct. That is what it does. It pushes against the base of the lift quadrant which is connected to the lift arm.

More compression on spring the harder it pushes against the lift.

I can back it off, but I had it backed off all the way when I installed it and it did nothing. You are supposed to back it off for use w/the mower deck.

 

[dwhit]

Wow, am sorry to hear about the helper spring, I thought I was heading in the right direction to post on the want ads. Maybe I need to rethink about my decision to try to find one for my 210 and 31 tiller combo.

 

[charms]

On the 200 series, hydraulic lift is the way to go. Works very well.

 

[dwhit]

How difficult to find hydraulic lift assembly, and what all is involved to install on the 200 series?

 

[sreynolds]

I didn't mention the fact that I fought with the hydraulic lift for about four/five years because it wasn't relevant to my question.

That was a nightmare on elm in the full sense. I realize my tractors are different than that of others and I have problems that of which others will not encounter. However, I can say with certainty, I will never revisit that nightmare as along as I'm alive.

Just a hint; The hy pump leaks all over the engine/tractor. When you reseal it with the very costly seal kit from Deere it lasts about six weeks of use then leaks. I did that four times and never again.

It was leaking right on the pump. the two halves which fasten together. Not a lip seal on a shaft. Rather, the gear pump halves.

Sold it to a WFR member/collecor who, to this day, has not installed it onto a working tractor. Most likely due to the fact it was inoperable.

I removed it and simply set the mower deck with the height control knob. Never again bothering to lower or raise the deck. NO need to.

 

[JDF/ SwampFox]

Scott,
I just installed helper springs on my 212 and 214.
The first one was a chore not knowing how it went on for certain. The second one was a snap since I knew what I was doing.
I installed them mainly for front blade use and they work well for that.
I had a 212 with hydraulic lift also and it was a messy unit. No way to stop the oil seeps.

Btw, not sure why you had to shim your helper. ???? The longer end of the pin hole should point to the right side of tractor, putting the adjustment bolt on top.

 

[sreynolds]

Right there. That strap that has the 5/16" bolt/nut. When you tighten it down....like you THINK YOU WOULD........it pinches the slotted rod which MUST move free. So, you get everything in place and snugged up, then come to the realization that it will not move.

Haaaaa.....what the hey man!

Then you begin to sweat, cuz now it hits you that you must partially remove the rear mount to loosen up the front pin, then remove that bolt,,,, then pull the pin out 1/8 inch then shim it with a flat washer and on and on.

yea, not knowing step by step you really don't have any idea where to begin.

ONLY tip I had was that the lift arm must be move a number of times while you install said assy to afford clearance/manipulation of said parts.

 

[sreynolds]

p.s. that slotted rod is for the rear lift assembly. The slotted portion is the front section. It SLIDES in that helper spring's front pin.

You may not have that with use of the front lift kit, so you would not have the same senario as I.