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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Fimco 25 gallon sprayer that I tow behind my 425. To date I have just used the included alligator clamps as necessary and hooked directly to the battery with the wiring hanging along the footboard and over the fender. Not very clean and prone to being damaged.

I'd like to permanently wire a connection to the rear of the tractor and install an Anderson connector or something similar. I'm looking for input on a safe path to run the wiring. I'm also curious where people have mounted switches on the 4x5 series. I hate to permanently modify anything but I also want something that is clean and out of the way. I've considered mounting the switch either inside or on top of the toolbox as it would be easier to get back to stock than modifying the dash, but I'm not 100% sold on that idea.

Any ideas/assistance would be appreciated.
 

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I also pull a sprayer and in addition have a loader with the extra lights that I use on my 455. I bought a pigtail plug with 2 conductors (sort of like a boat trailer wiring connector) and wired it into the tractor's light circuit and just let it hang out at the top rear of the side panel just below the hood. I use it for the loader lights and also for the sprayer. So the light switch also functions as the sprayer switch. Figured I'd try it and if the light switch became a problem or weak point then I would rewire the lights with a relay. Has not proven to be a problem yet anyway. When I use the sprayer I just route the wire to power it under the seat and plug it into the pigtail. The pigtail can be tucked into the area behind the dash when not needed and nothing shows.
 

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Whoops, only caution is that the hot wire needs to be run to the wire on the pigtail that connects to the female end so there isn't a hot open connector. I need to recheck mine to make sure I did that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good idea using the light switch for that, that never occured to me but I like it. I think I may consider running a separate wire and then using an automotive relay as opposed to drawing straight from the light circuit but otherwise I think that will work. And, if I use a relay, if I ever decide to use a separate switch it would be pretty easy to change the setup.
 

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I recently installed a lift assist assembly in my 210 and there seems to be some "stiction". Before I installed it, I soaked it in WD 40 specialist, then an oil bath, dried it, then sprayed everything down with Liquid Wrench Dry Lube and installed it.

The dry lube doesn't seem to be enough so I was thinking about using a spray grease for garage doors on the sleeves/guides. Any other suggestions?
 

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It's the manual helper. The spring resides over a sleeve/guide that slides on itself.as the lift is raised and lowered. The sleeve appears to be binding on itself. Maybe I'll continue to hit the assembly with wd 40 for awhile before resorting to grease that could attract dirt.
 

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Andrew, you might want to make sure you have the unit installed correctly, with all the connecting pieces in the right order and position. You might also want to verify there are no bent or misplaced pieces on the lift assist unit, the lift system, brakes, or frame which might interfere with operation of the lift assist.
 
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