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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone seen this before? Tomorrow I'm planning on starting a project on a 60 that's been stripped to near nothing. So far I'm thinking of using a rearend that I have for a MF 8 that's been stripped also. It seems to be the same as the one in the tricycle 70 Ive nearly completed. I have a cast front axle a buddy brought me with the rear axle in the 70. I picked up enough steel to build a boxed in frame to mimic the 60. It will be slightly wider to accept a bigger motor & larger rearend, may have to stretch the length a bit aswell. I've also thought I will build a sub-frame for the loader & using it for the oil tank. Since there will be hydraulics I'm thinking a 3 point hitch would be nice & maybe power steering. Tomorrow I'm wanting to tack the loader arms together & start on the frames. Starting this project while I wait on finding the rear tires I want to start the high crop project.
 

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Man that sounds awesome!!! You have some great ideas for really different projects, stuff no one else has! You got skills man, you got skills!!! Just let me know when I can place my order!
 

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Kevin,
If you need a NEW NEVER USED 10hp cast iron vertical shaft engine for your JD60 loader project let me know.
I will make you a good deal ...... smile.
Best of luck on your project.
Don
VH100b.jpg VH100d.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That would be a nice engine for the project Don, but I do have a 12.5 hp Briggs I believe. It was bought some years ago to replace an engine in a old mower, just don't think it's going make it there. Thanks Jason, I think it will be a cool project. I'm not sure how it will all turn out, but time will tell. I see the larger loader tractors on here & would like one, but currently out of the budget. I love these old round fender tractors & can afford time & some money. My Dad & I do have another idea for a tractor, but I'm going to have to collect some part for a while first. We want to turn a Wisconsin twin cylinder on its side & make it look like a styled G. Have the motor need a larger rearend. A buddy at work has a old Case garden tractor might work. Maybe next winters project. I did get the loader arms put together today, minus the under side. Guess I forgot to order the steel for that. Monday I will get that so I can weld it all up. I will have to work on a rolling frame next, then build the sub-frame for the loader to mount the arms. It will be a quik attach bucket also, they are to handy not to be! image.jpg

image.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The welder is a Lincoln 140C mig when at my Dads garage, For some of the heavy welds I take it to work to use a Lincoln power mig 300. Either way I usually V out the area to get 100% weld. The loader arms were tacked on the outer corners, then "V'd on the one side, welded, flipped over, V'd to the root of the lat weld & re welded. Takes a while but worth it down the road.
 

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Great plan Kevin,I'll keep a eye on this thread too.If you don't put the 3ph on it,your gonna need a good weight rack at least
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the tip Grant. I have noticed with dads little D2000 Kubota its a handy little guy, but without the rototiller on the back its nearly useless. I was also looking at the degrees of the arms of the loader tractors we have. The Kubota was 105 degrees, 2755 JD was 127 & 4000Ford was 131 degrees, I went with 122 because the Kubota doesn't put the load out from the tractor really, the other 2 do but this takes weight away from the rear axle as it lifts. It ok if you have the weight, so I'm hoping on a bit of both worlds.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I had some time on Saturday to bend the main frame rails, they need to be capped yet. I also got the plate for the rearend welded to look like the plate that's on the tricycle ( I'm assuming off a 110). On this one I'm notching the top & bottom for the 3 point hitch to be built into the plate. I don't have any pics yet, & it doesn't look like much at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got the frame boxed last night. The rails should be sitting right rail on left side of the other to picture it, the top would also be the rear of the tractor. I'm hoping sometime on the weekend I will have the rearend tied to the frame, maybe a rolling frame. I won't be able to weld the frame solid till I place the engine in place & likely move the inside frame rail out for more room. Then decide if I'm stretching the frame as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I never got anything done this weekend, I had the opportunity to work were my mother grew up this weekend so I bought here there to see family while I worked. I spent some time tonight after work & did some welding on the rear frame. Think it should work alright, I've made some pockets for the 3 point. I never got it all welded yet, ran out of gas so I will need to grind some of the welds & redo them.
image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've got this piece welded & nearly all cleaned up. Holes for the Pins to hold the arms are drilled & the top was drilled for the rock shaft. I was thinking of getting some bushing made to put on either ends of the rock shaft. Next weekend I'm thinking of taking a trip to princess auto to look for some hydraulic cylinders for this project. I picked up 3 top links this weekend, 2 will be cut up to make the arms. I'm not sure about how far apart the arms normally spread to or what the measurement is from the arms to the top link on the tractor, if someone could help me with that info. It would be greatly appreciated.
 

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The lower arms spread 20 inches measured center of ball to center of ball. The center of the top link measures 12 inches from the centerline of the bottom mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK, Thanks Doug. I seen that on a Google search, but I was taking it like those measurements were taken on a blade or something & lynchpin would go on the outside of that. So then I'm wondering should I be making the arms spread 22-23" to get over the pins? Didn't want to build them twice is all. Am I thinking on the right track?
 

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Kevin, I hope you are putting a ball on both ends of the arm. This allows enough pivot side to side to allow you to hook up Cat 0 implements. Now I don't know the distance at the tractor end of the Cat 0 balls but the offset bend in the lower arms is half that difference of the measurement at the tractor end and and implement end.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes, I plan to put balls at each end. Think I'm on the right track, 20" is the magic number. tether chains will need to allow a little extra for implement installation. Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This is were I'm at so far. 10 1/4" centre of the balls where it sits so it shouldn't be to bad of bends. I will see if I can get the ends of the balls attached to the bar I'm using during lunch tomorrow.

image.jpg image.jpg
Not sure why the first pic turned on me.
 

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It's starting to look like something. :thumb:
 
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