I'm hoping it is. I tried getting some pics of where I got to, but they don't show up so well. What I did was trimmed off close to 1" around the perimeter of the dash, ( where the gasket is,hood meets dash). I cut the base of the dash & moved it 1" closer to the seat over hanging the serial tag. Then cut the bottom of the actual dash & added 2 1/2" to the vertical & changed the degree of slope. There will be a 2 1/2" band at the top & it flares out to 4" at the bottom. This is a picture of the piece I am going to cut today & shape to fit. Looks right on paper, guess I'll see!
Thanks. I just have an idea of what I want to see & go for it. Have to admit, Dad helped me on this one. I was tack welding sides on & he got looking at it & thought it should look different. He was right. I never rolled the sides & I do like a factory look so I broke it all free again & rolled it. Have to admit it looked better that way. Most was done with a vice& rubber hammer, no special tools. Just opened the vice & beat in the desired shape if anyone was curious. Soft ground works also, but that's hard to find this time of year. Lol.
I welded the loader arms all up, bushings are in the bottom for quik attach. I still have to clean up the welds, I'm a little disappointed the arms twisted while welding. I'm sure I can straighten them, but will need to take them to work where we have some heavy equipment. I've seen this done on a 988 cat loader after frost had fallen on it, that was bad, this is rest her mild & a lot smaller material. I have ordered H3 valve & controls from a 430 as well as a 5 port steering valve from a 425. That should be in sometime this week. I plan to tie the steering together today & get it ready for the cylinder. By putting marks on the floor & turning, it looks like 2" of stoke is all that's required to turn full in both directions.
Loader arms are back to normal, not completely welded due to running out of wire. So the steering never got done yet either. I did look closer into the 425 steering pump. I never got the pump with the hoses or mounting plate, but did learn that a 16x1.5 tap will allow me to tap the hole so I can change it over to JIC fittings. Taps should be in this week, at $40 a piece, wow! I did take the tractor to work & got the tank cleaned & capped. I will still need to put the fittings in the tank, but holding out till I know where I want them. I was planning on doing a quik attach like a skid steer, but now think I will make it more like what's on dads 2755 JD. May be lighter in the long run.
I haven't had any time to tinker with this in a while. To many other projects needing attention, I'm sure most can relate to that! Here's what's in he works, T-75 panzer needs tires & rims painted, tricycle 70 needs completing with paint, but I've spent a fair bit of time stripping down my old 6.0L to do an ls swap in the '72 c10. Currently rebuilding an old school 350 so we can get the old girl out for the summer. Thought I would give a little update.
So the arms are off a f725 I dismantled. The one on the left is longer than the right, but they are nearly identical. My question would be, how long do the lift arms normally hang out beyond the tires. I believe I can cut down the arms & make them identical. Just need a ball park measurement if anyone can help. Thanks
The welder is a Lincoln 140C mig when at my Dads garage, For some of the heavy welds I take it to work to use a Lincoln power mig 300. Either way I usually V out the area to get 100% weld. The loader arms were tacked on the outer corners, then "V'd on the one side, welded, flipped over, V'd to the root of the lat weld & re welded. Takes a while but worth it down the road.
I found a little time to work on this again today. In retrospect I likely should’ve extended the spindle & drilled through like the 60 had, but this will work for now at least. That may happen yet & still need to hook up the other end.
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