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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a new to me model 49. Trying to determine the age from the serial number is proving to be a challenge. I haven't found a break down by year anywhere, but maybe it doesn't really matter. I assume from the warning sticker around 1984.

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I have read enough here to know the gearbox is a critical component to pay attention to. When I bought it I felt carefully for play and everything is really tight. A bit too tight actually, the shear pin is tightened down and frozen from corrosion, but that's a different issue. The seller said the gearbox was replaced by a dealer a year ago, but then in person said it was replaced "a year or two ago" so who knows, no receipts. Once I got it home, I was a bit surprised to see it filled with gear oil, not grease. There's also more metal in the oil than I like.
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However the gears themselves look fine. Assuming this really is a new gear box (I was assured it was not a used replacement part) is there a break in period where the oil should have been drained? I'm planning on using corn head grease.
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The unit looks great over all and not abused. Once I get the 332 belt (it was on a 318), some grease and some ballast I should be ready for some snow.
 

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IMO people make to big of of deal over looseness of the gears in the model 49 gearbox. As long as the gears run in ample amount of corn head grease and are not about but picking up and blowing gravel or ice chunks at end of driveway caused by ice uses on road and then plowed into a pile at the end of your driveway.. This area needs to be cleared before the water caused by salt freezes. If you have a gravel driveway that is fine but the skid shoes need to be adjusted to not pick up the gravel.. Another thing members with gravel drives do is drive over early snows until they have layer of ice over the surface. This protects snow thrower from picking up stones.
 

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Sorry about the link. I do not know what changed on this site. I can no longer copy and paste the URL. I deleted that and used the "insert link" button. Info inserted with green text and underlined the way it used to. Admin, what changed or am I doing something wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thankfully since I've moved a couple of years ago, my driveway/parking is all concrete. I haven't mounted it up yet, but the PO welded some extra 1/2 inch plate to the bottom of the skid shoes, it remains to be seen if the extra height will be an issue on smooth concrete.
 

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I have high carbon steel strips welded to skid shoes also. 1/2" might be a bit much.Typically I place a penny under each and middle of the cutting edge and adjust the skid shoes to that amount of clearance. I have noticed that snow throwers that are used to "ram" frozen surfaces or raised cracks in concrete surfaces can cause a bow across the bottom of the shell the cutting edge bolts to. Decent size hammer fixes that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm also going to have to figure out how to mount the bracket for the cute rotator handle. This is what is currently present:
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Which is a bit of a DIY puzzle. I should have looked at his 318 before leaving. The "correct" bracket for the 332 looks to be NLA and expensive to buy used. I should be able to make something from sheet metal that will work.
 

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What model tractor are you mounting the snow thrower on. Open frame tractors have a bracket to mount the rotator lever arm onto. What you have shown in photo is a homemade mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I will be putting this on a 332. I see the bracket used on ebay. To get both the arm that supports the rod and the bracket that holds it and bolts to the tractor would be $125, so I think I'll make a reproduction based on pictures/diagrams of the original.
 

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Yes, that bracket for open frame tractor is rather pricey. The 332 bracket is taller than the 318 bracket so they are not interchangeable. I have one of each, not for sale, but I can get you dimensions if you want fabricate one yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If you can get an approximate thickness, that would be handy. Otherwise I'll just get something that seems sturdy enough. Should be easy enough to match up the existing 3 holes at the top of the bracket, however I am missing a hole in the bottom right of this picture:
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Another tractor donated some sheet metal at some point here.

Knowing the distance between the top and bottom mounting holes would help keep it stock.
 

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Hardware/location shown is not correct for mounting the correct bracket. Here is the PC link that I assume is not going to work again.

file:///C:/Users/Kelvin/AppData/Local/Temp/49_Inch_Tractor_Mounted_Snow_Throwers__Introduction.pdf

It only shows bracket for 316/318 open frame tractors but will give you an idea of what the bracket looks like. Lower tab mounts to fender deck hardware and upper holes mount to two flat head screwdriver screws on top of screen.

I will get you a thickness.
 

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Sorry, I was wrong. Found 4 brackets. Three are definitely for 318, the 4th has hole pattern matching location you are showing (for 332).

332 bracket measures 1/8" thickness.. Three holes at top should match what you are showing. I do not see the lower hole. There is a weld nut to mount the rotate bracket to this bracket and a slot to prevent the rotate bracket from indexing.
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318 bracket was 3/16" thick. This bracket was on 318 I bought and am refreshing.
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Gabby, I'm not 100% sure, but I think the link you posted is requiring the OP to access your computer...C:/Users/etc.
Try selecting the file and attaching it.. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That 332 bracket matches the three mounting holes I have at the top, but my tractor does not have the 4th mounting hole on the bottom of the bracket. I assume it should be used for stability.

I appreciate the pictures and measurements.

On a different issue, I pulled off the chain/sprocket guard to take a look at condition, the chain and teeth look great, but I noticed the large one was wearing on the inside cover:
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The large sprocket about fell off in my hand! I lined it up with the chain and tightened up the set screw over the key and it's good now. I'm really glad I checked this.
 

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The hub on replacement sprocket (large sprocket) is thicker than original. I have to have some material shaved off the hub before I have it welded to the sprocket to keep this from happening.

Wear on skid shoe is normal. I have resurfaced many of these especially if used on concrete surface. There is some new type of material these shoes are now made from but I have no experience with them.
 

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Roller chain ... I have never been able to find a spec associating pin wear to how much the chain bends. Attached photo shows new vs old chain. The more the chain can "bend" the more wear there is to chain link and pin. Track chain on Deere crawlers there is a spec for this that tells you when service is needed or needs replacement. Wish I could find a spec for this. New chain is around $40 (aftermarket).
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