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Yeah I'll say. If it's humid at all after something is blasted you can stand there and watch it rust. If somebody isn't powder coating something after it was blasted it will need extra thick paint, vs something you just prep sanded. A paint gun is a must, to me anyway. A spray bomb won't lay enough volume down and rust will start fairly quickly. The type of paint matters too. Dad was out of enamel for his gun one time after he blasted a flywheel for an old stationary engine so he grabbed a rattle can of flat black barbecue paint to put on it temporarily. He said it was just as rusty the next morning as it would have been without any paint at all. He told me the rust looked a bit different though. Had a fuzzy hazy look to it like frost would. So that's how good barby paint is for protecting something.


will quickly rust if not protected.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I use Deere spray paint and primer. It will get a coat of Deere primer.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Brought the cover and base plate home today. Decided to paint both. In process. I have 2nd Covid-19 vaccination tomorrow early afternoon. Kind of ruins a work day. Hope to have those two parts painted tomorrow morning so I can get photos tomorrow night.

Need to do some filing work on the sliding bracket that holds the sheaves. I scoffed it up a little with the sawzall when I had to cut out the center sheave. That bracket and sheaves are the next parts I want to get cleaned up and painted.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
I finished painting the cover and have one side of the base plate to finish yet. Will finish paint the base plate tomorrow. Also want to get the sheaves and mounting bracket for the sheaves cleaned tomorrow and sprayed with rust reformer. I forget the cure for rust reformer. Hope to have all pieces painted and assembly back together next week.

Pitting on the cover is visible with one primer coat and 2 coats of Deere yellow. Going to have to live with it.
DSCN1520.JPG DSCN1521.JPG
 
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Discussion Starter #25
Second dose of Covid 19 vaccination knocked me down for a couple days. Up and moving again. Heading to rural property for a project today. Hope to finish painting this base plate tonight.
 
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Discussion Starter #26
Air quality alert? Plus 2-4" new snow predicted for this afternoon. Guess I will go hide in the garage and get more of this project done.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Finished painting the mounting plate today.

Then cleaned up and primed sheave mounting bracket. Before supper I got first coat of yellow on the inside of the bracket. Heading back out to the garage to get 2nd coat of yellow on the inside surfaces. Will try to get 2 coats on the outside surfaces yet tonight.

I got all three of the sheaves wire brushed and sprayed with rust reformer. Painting those will have to wait till tomorrow.

Only thing left after all above is complete is to paint the cylinder that actuates the chute rotation.

I will be clearing snow tomorrow. Hope to get snow cleared and rest of these parts painted.
DSCN1526.JPG DSCN1527.JPG
 
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Discussion Starter #29
Looking at the base plate where the sheave bracket mounts, the upper leading corner it bent slightly up ward.. I should be able to put the plate in the press and bend the corner down without massacring the paint job.
Bent base.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Sheave mounting bracket is painted and needs cure time. Sheaves are primed and need two coats of yellow paint. Cylinder gets a coat or two of semi gloss black. Hope to get this all done tomorrow and bolted together Tuesday.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Reassembling the chute rotate assembly. Still need to paint the center sheave and the cylinder before I can complete this part of the project.
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Remainder of the snow thrower is still in back of truck. With warmer temperatures this morning I was able to open up the back of the truck and do some more teardown. I removed the short chute, right side skid shoe, and covers over the gearbox. I want to get the mount off the snow thrower to clean it up and see if it can be used to mount the BrandX two stage snow blower I have on a Deere 400. Issue there would be to find a drive shaft to connect snow thrower to tractor.
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Here are the two driveshafts still attached to gearbox on model 50 I am currently tearing down. Knuckles on the input drive shaft are loose. I think it is still useable but will check to see if knuckles are still available. If not from Deere I will take it to a driveshaft repair shop to see if it can be rebuilt.

Surprise. This morning when do more teardown, the gearbox is not locked up. All I can think when I checked it earlier is either the damage covers caused something to bind or held the driveshaft in an angled positioned preventing it from turning. All appears to be good with the gearbox. This complicates making the final decision to scrap out or rebuild the snow blower.
 
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I can’t really tell from 200 miles away, but the PTO shaft kinda looks like the 420 length.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Hello Grandpajay. I got this model 50 from up in your neck of the woods, Afton. PO had a 400 to sell with it. Because of the condition of this snow thrower I am not sure if he every used it. Do you know the length of the driveshaft for the 400?
 

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I found a picture of the 420 shaft and it is clearly longer than yours. I couldn't find a picture of the 400 shaft that I used to own. So your picture is accurate to a 400.

263819
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thank you for clarifying the photo. I saw the post with that photo and it was kind of confusing if this was the 400 or 420 driveshaft. Now I know for sure.

My model 50 has seen a rough life. Not saying it cannot be restored bu there were things done to it that are just not correct. The roll pin that holds the driveshaft to the gearbox input shaft was replaced with a steep round stock and tack welded to hold it. It will be a little work but I should be able to take a file and file off the bead. I will have at it tomorrow. Not a great photo. Sorry.
DSCN1533.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Cleaning and painting more parts.

QUESTION: Cleaning up the gearbox. Oil in the gearbox smells worse than transmission factory fill in a 1935 Unstyled John Deere B. There are drain/fill plugs in the top and bottom of the gearbox. Is it safe to drain the old oil then add some parts cleaner/parts cleaner and spin the input shaft to agitate and clean the gears then drain and refill with correct oil. I have many manuals but not one for model 50 snow thrower. What is correct service oil and how much do I use?

Gearbox is Curtis brand ... Model 211 ... Curtis Machine Company, Inc.

Edit Curtis Machine link states factory fill is ...
16 OZ AGMA 5EP GEAR LUBRICANT
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Gearbox was all cleaned up. Pulled both plugs and drained oil into pan. There was a large amount of water in the gear case.. Added 16 oz's paint thinner and spun the input shaft dozen or so times each direction and drained again. I did not see any particles indicating gear wear. Reinstalled bottom plug using thread sealant leftover from Auxiliary Hydraulics. I have take Mom to a Drs. appointment tomorrow so will pick up gear lube while I am out. Will use same thread sealer on top fill plug.

Breather?

Parts removed from snow thrower that need work yet:
  • paint center sheave for chute rotator and finish assembly. Its looking good.
  • clean and wipe down mounting bracket ... paint bracket semi gloss black
  • paint lift cylinder ... semi gloss black
  • skid shoes need weld strips welded and paint the shoes
  • finish painting driveshaft between gear box and drive sprocket.
  • still need to file off spot weld on pin attaching driveshaft to gearbox
  • paint the driveshaft.
After these are done there is not much left to finish restoration. Remainder of the work is working with large parts. I have tried removing locking collars on auger bearing. They are rusted tight. They will get damaged removing them. I am at the point where I need to decide if I will continue with restoration or just cleaning up parts to sell.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Had family errands to take care of today so didn't get much completed in garage. I did pick up gear oil for the gearbos and get that buttoned up. Still need to get the input drive shaft off the input shaft and polish up the output shaft. Will try to get this completed yet tonight along with paint center sheave for the chute rotator.
 

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My 50 gearbox was weeping (not just from being owned by me) so I embarked on replacing seals and gaskets. In a flash of brilliance I decided to put synthetic gear oil in the box. Bad choice for mine. I could not stop the seepage. I finally cleaned it out and used corn head grease and now it sits dry as a bone.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Did you have to fill it thru one of the covers?
 
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