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Did you have to fill it thru one of the covers?
I honestly don't remember. I can picture using a popsicle stick with the cover off. I can also picture sticking a zerk in place of a fill plug and pumping until it came out the other plug. I'm getting old enough that I can imagine either scenario.
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
I can see the grease zerk thing working. I have already done the 16 ounces of gear lube so I will see how that works out. The mounting bracket was completely coated with oily crud but the gearbox was not. The covers were oily but it was not dried onto the surfaces. What puzzles me is how the gearbox filled with water. Condensation caused by heat from usage and cooled with snow?

Had to go to rural property today so did get much done on the snow thrower today. I did get one side of the 3rd sheave painted before I left. Tomorrow will finish painting the sheave so I can finish assembly.

I had to haul 317 frame and parts home from property so had to move the snow thrower in back of truck. Did a little more clean up and found a couple of pin holes in left lower side of the shell just behind the cutting edge. I really want to restore this snow thrower but a rotted shell would be a killer. The other parts machine is a 46" (M02780X) for 655 compact tractor. Shell is completely different so I cannot use that shell to restore the model 50. Things are not looking good for restoration.
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
This morning I took the mounting bracket out to see if it would attach to the 420.
  • Upper portion with the spring pins appears it will fit frame width
  • Photo is kind of difficult to see but the 420 frame mounting plates are offset making the lower portion of the mount with the hooks narrower than a 400
  • Apparently the 400 does not have offset in these mounting plates welded to the frame.
Again puts me at a decision point before I proceed. I do not own a 400 so this mounting bracket is not usable to me. Modification would be fairly simple to make it fit 420. I am not going to paint this part until I decide if I am going to complete model 50 restoration or part it out. Modifying it to make the model 50 fit a 420 is not really an option because I would need to find different driveshaft. I don't want to go there unless I could find/fabricate complete modification kit.

Other option would be to modify this to work on the BrandX two stage snow blower I have. I currently have that set up to fit 318 with kwik hitch. That set up makes it too expensive to sell because buyer would need hitch and pto drive kit which is quite pricey. Using this mount to fit a 400 would only require finding a correct length driveshaft. Wouldn't need the gearbox. Should probably see if rotating speed would be similar to original speed.

DSCN1548.JPG
 

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It would seem that a restoration of the 50 snow thrower for a 400 needs to be a labor of love. There isn't a very big market for these-even fully restored. So not much value, either. 400's are getting to be pretty old and not very high on a collectors list. The foot pedal hydrostatic GT's seem to be emerging as the next generation of usable vintage tractors and even some of the 7xx series are getting older. That is from the perspective of "if I started over today, what project would I look at with the intentions of having a worker?".
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Agree completely with what you say Grandpajay. I have already made up my mind. No going to cut up parts so they will not fit a 400 but making the mount also fit a 420. BrandX snow blower will be made for 140's but would also fit 3XX open/closed frame tractors as long as I can find a parts model 49.

Decision made ... The mounting bracket is too large and cumbersome to adapt to BrandX snow blower so I am going to have the two pieces of round stock that fit the lower hooks removed and add full length steel rod. It will still fit a 400 or a 420. If the model 50 restoration does not occur the bracket I think would work well to mount a Pincor generator on. I always try to think ahead.
 
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Discussion Starter #46
Didn't get a lot done in the garage today. Nice day and I spent most of it wandering around the yard. Mistake, found a bunch more work that needs to be done.

I did pull the spring pins out of the model 50 mounting frame and got them cleaned up and painted. Will put them back in the frame when dry so I don't loose the parts. Also got the 3rd sheave painted for the chute rotator.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Chute rotator is assembled except for the cables that cannot be attached until the assembly is mounted on the shell and cables are being attached to chute. The hoses attached to cylinder are the model 50 hoses and are to long to use on model 49. Those will also be replaced when model 49 is mounted on tractor and adjustments are being made.
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Can't do anything with mounting bracket until I get the steel rod installed to make it usable on a 420 (I hope). Spring pins are painted and today I want to get the lift cylinder painted and the input driveshaft off the gearbox. Will paint those items so they are ready to reinstall.
 

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Gabby, when you get the rod installed I would suggest welding a plate in the center between the rod and mount. I did that on my 54 blade mount that I got for my 420. The mount was originally for a 400 and looked like your snow blower mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Jake, do you have a photo to show me what you mean? I have been contemplating a removable plate on both sides slightly less than the amount of the offset in the 420 mounting plate.

Would adding the plate still allow the mount to be used on 400 and 420?
 

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I don't have a picture, but can maybe explain it a little more. When I took my plow mount to a weld shop I told them that I wanted the rod to be reinforced in the center so it would not bend over time. Looking at the mount from the top the bar stretches the full width across the mount. In the center there is about a three to four inch long piece of 3/8 thick steel plate welded between the rod and mount. I have like a two inch pocket on either side where the lower frame hooks around the rod. This way, instead of the force being focused on just the end plates, it is distributed across the entire back of the mount, also, it keeps the rod straight, so it doesn't bend of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Pretty sure I know what you mean Jake. Problem I see that would need a work around is can you still use a driveshaft on the tractor front drive or does the plate interfere?

Want to get the mount to Denny today to get this work completed.

Working on the gearbox, input driveshaft. I was able to remove the driveshaft using hammer and chisel to break the spot welds. Not happy with what I saw underneath. There is damage to both the gearbox shaft and the driveshaft. Came in the house to get camera for photos.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Damage to both gearbox input gear shaft and drive shaft. First four photos show damage to the shaft, the key slot, and roll pin bore. There is a significant step in the driveshaft at location in 4th photo. Probably the best way to fix this is contact Curtis Machine Company, Inc.To get cost for replacement gear/shaft.
DSCN1563.JPG DSCN1564.JPG DSCN1566.JPG DSCN1567.JPG
Last 3 photos show damage to the drive shaft. Driveshaft is shown in last photo. Right side was attached to gearbox input shaft. Knuckle has a stiff spot but may be usable if I have to, Takiing it to Drive Line to see if they have the crosses to rebuild the driveshaft and also replace the yoke with damaged key slot.
DSCN1569.JPG DSCN1570.JPG DSCN1571.JPG
Good thing I am going back to work because I think this is going to get expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Matt, sometime around March 8th I will be back to swinging a garden hose in 4 greenhouses. That is all they trust me with.This will be my 8th year.

Kevin, I do not really need another mount. I took the 400 mount to have pins cut out and rod added across the width of the mount. Took the driveshaft to Drive Line. They are piecing together a complete new driveshaft and will get back with me on cost. New driveshaft if I go with it will not use roll pin to attach. Key slot and set up. With this setup Drive Line felt there was no need to do anything with the gearbox.
 

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I don't have a photo Gabby, but maybe I can describe it better. I replaced the two stubs with a solid rod across the bottom of the mount. I had a weld shop weld the ends of the rod to the end plates on the bracket. Then I had them weld a 3/8's thick piece of plate steel about 5-6" long between the the center of the mount and the rod. This way instead of all of the pressure being on the end plates it is spread across the whole mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Phone call from Drive Line this morning. Can get parts to put together a new driveshaft with round center link and overall length about 7 3/4 inches. JD400 driveshaft is 6 1/2 inches. I told them that would not be acceptable. I want the parts to be able to install on a JD400.

Question: Has anyone drilled new holes in the mounting plate and relocated the gearbox further forward to use a longer driveshaft? I understand the second drive shaft needs to run at acceptable angle but it is a slip fit so length is somewhat flexible as long as it does not run at a steep angle.

Work on this project is about to a standstill until I get mount and driveshaft issues worked out.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Possibility but I think moving the geabox ahead would be a simpler solution. There is plenty of room on the mounting bracket for this.
 

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Your only dealing with a inch and quarter difference, I think as long as there is no contact between the gearbox and the blower housing, or any acute angles to the two shafts within the full range of movement, you should be ok Gabby.
 
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