[Merc1973]

After a 2-year hiatus of taking it apart, I'm Reassembling my refreshed 50 thrower.

1. Auger installation: the inner shaft was pounded out with a BFH (rusted together), flapped disc cleaned and lubed. I remember removing it from the shell was a real PITA. There is very little clearance with the shell sides and the inner auger shaft. Is there a trick for installing this without scratching the paint too bad?

 

[grandpajay]

I seem to remember that the shaft has to be loose enough to slide back and forth a couple of inches. But it's been a few years since I had mine apart for restoration.

 

[TooManyTractors]

Looking forward to seeing more on this. I hate when people's garage cabinets are nicer than my kitchen cabinets.

 

[Merc1973]

She's in. A little prying leverage with a sledge hammer handle to gap that 1/8" for the shaft. New bearings going on.

Stupid question: The letters JD on these bolts, does that stand for John deere? My 400 has many bolts like this all over it.

 

[Merc1973]

I seem to remember that the shaft has to be loose enough to slide back and forth a couple of inches. But it's been a few years since I had mine apart for restoration.

Thanks. I suppose I could have removed the shear bolt bracket from the keyed shaft. But installing once it's in the housing might be difficult.

 

[Merc1973]

Looking forward to seeing more on this. I hate when people's garage cabinets are nicer than my kitchen cabinets.

Haha. They're Old hand-me-down Cherry cabinets from my in-laws house after an addition was put on. We installed some of them in our kitchen as well.

 

[dhager4692]

Looking forward to seeing more on this. I hate when people's garage cabinets are nicer than my kitchen cabinets.

You would like the cabinets I built for my previous garage. They were knotty pine laminate on both sides of the doors and side panels. I started with 15 x 48 shelves and glued two together to make all the panels. I used black tmolding around the edges. It really looked sharp.

 

[army]

I'm pretty sure that's that's how I did one for a QL Cub Cadet. Been a long time though.

Thanks. I suppose I could have removed the shear bolt bracket from the keyed shaft. But installing once it's in the housing might be difficult.

 

[Merc1973]

Its back together. I wanted to install a tall chute, but they are all over priced. Next up is flapper mod and need some new decals Anyone know why JD parts catalog doesnt show model 50 thrower when looking up a 400?

 

[jdalchemist]

Merc,
Super job, both mechanically and cosmetically! In the jdparts catalog just search for model 50 and scroll down to find the 50 snowthrower.
Harold

 

[Merc1973]

Merc,
Super job, both mechanically and cosmetically! In the jdparts catalog just search for model 50 and scroll down to find the 50 snowthrower.
Harold

Thank you. Its not my best rattle can job, just dont look to closely. I still need to repaint the lift and mounting frame.

You can tell the original owner had a gravel driveway. The shell and auger took beatings. At least they kept up with repairs.

 

[army]

Don't get into my stone driveway very often with the blower but it occasionally happens. I made a pair of oversized shoes for it. Worked pretty good but it turned out support wheels are better for the clean crushed 3/4" stone top layer I have. Had everything I needed to make them. Just had to do the fab work. I offset the flat part inward so the bottom edge of the blower tub was protected. When the blower was down all the way the shoes provided about an inch of clearance for the stone. But the pads left 4" wide by about 1/2" deep ruts though so I switched to 10" tall x 1.5" wide wheels instead. These shoes should work pretty well on a paved or hard packed gravel driveway though. They are basically the same as what we had on plow trucks back in the day.

 

[Merc1973]

Don't get into my stone driveway very often with the blower but it occasionally happens. I made a pair of oversized shoes for it. Worked pretty good but it turned out support wheels are better for the clean crushed 3/4" stone top layer I have. Had everything I needed to make them. Just had to do the fab work. I offset the flat part inward so the bottom edge of the blower tub was protected. When the blower was down all the way the shoes provided about an inch of clearance for the stone. But the pads left 4" wide by about 1/2" deep ruts though so I switched to 10" tall x 1.5" wide wheels instead. These shoes should work pretty well on a paved or hard packed gravel driveway though. They are basically the same as what we had on plow trucks back in the day.
View attachment 286479

Those look very well done!

 

[army]

The only PITA part of making them was cutting the shoes crossways about 1/8" deep with a hacksaw so they'd bend up where I wanted them to on the ends. No heat. I just walloped them with a BFH.

 

[army]

You did a fine job on yours btw. Looks like a new one. You probably should grab a screwdriver and scratch and gouge it in a couple spots and get that part over with.

 

[Merc1973]

You did a fine job on yours btw. Looks like a new one. You probably should grab a screwdriver and scratch and gouge it in a couple spots and get that part over with.

So true!

Greased zerk fittings and topped off gear box oil with some Lucus oil. Flapper mod installed with the old original tires. I need a piece of flat stock aluminum or steel to replace the washers. I just used what i had in my parts bin. I wanted to try it out but I forgot i need to update the QD fittings to match the poppet style i installed on the tractor last year.

 

[Merc1973]

Swapped washers for some aluminum

 

[army]

My paddle mod is done like that too. It's sandwiched between the auger paddle and a piece of flat aluminum on the back side of the paddle, not the front where you'd think it should be. It allows a longer rubber flap to be used, which I theorize might help because it sticks out further and throws the snow up the chute better (?). I dunno if that's actually the case but it works better that way. It never plugged once with the flap behind the auger paddle but as soon as I tried it on the leading side of the paddle it started plugging the chute sometimes. I tried a longer chunk of rubber with it installed on the front side but that caused a noticeable thumping as the auger turned and the rubber flap had to squeeze through the gap. Probably not good for the auger bearings.

 

[Merc1973]

My paddle mod is done like that too. It's sandwiched between the auger paddle and a piece of flat aluminum on the back side of the paddle, not the front where you'd think it should be. It allows a longer rubber flap to be used, which I theorize might help because it sticks out further and throws the snow up the chute better (?). I dunno if that's actually the case but it works better that way. It never plugged once with the flap behind the auger paddle but as soon as I tried it on the leading side of the paddle it started plugging the chute sometimes. I tried a longer chunk of rubber with it installed on the front side but that caused a noticeable thumping as the auger turned and the rubber flap had to squeeze through the gap. Probably not good for the auger bearings.

Very nice. I theorized that the snow throwing surface should be slick. So i made sure only the bolt heads contacted snow so it wouldn't build up. Lol. I have no idea how well it will work. Your idea makes sense too.

 

[Merc1973]

These couplers are stuck on real good. Probably hardened sealer. Tied 18v impact driver, and pneumatic 1/2" impact gun (too much power). I'd like to reuse the hoses, but i feel that the propane torch will ruin them and id like to avoid hydraulic injection injury. Besides soaking with PB Blaster, any ideas on how to remove? I forsee new hoses in my future...