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The shop is done. My first project is to get the 1948 Model A running right. The fuel bowl assembly hasn't been right since we bought it. My son had tried to take the assembly off last year, it was stuck. I soaked it with PB Blaster for a couple days. It started to turn real easy. A quarter turn and it was loose, seemed hand tight at that point. Turned and turned by hand but, didn't unscrew.

Long story short, I decided to pull the tank to see what was going on. Off goes the hood. I looked at the poor repair of the hood where it had been cut for the exhaust repair. Why people cut that hole is beyond me. Got the tank removed and could see it had been "repaired". It look like they tried solder, welding and finished with JB Weld. I need to play with it some more to decide how to make a good repair to it.

It also looks like it could use some rewiring and some new switches. The switches will be here Friday.

Brown Wood Art Tints and shades Brick


Wood Flooring Gas Soil Concrete


Motor vehicle Green Automotive tire Water bottle Electrical wiring
 

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You can probably drill and tap the tank. The sediment bowl should be made from a pot metal or aluminum and should drill and tap easily. Just be sure to thoroughly clean tank after.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You can probably drill and tap the tank. The sediment bowl should be made from a pot metal or aluminum and should drill and tap easily. Just be sure to thoroughly clean tank after.
The piece that is still in the tank spins in place. I stopped last night before I figured out a solution to get that piece out. I can't believe there's a lip on anything on the inside of the tank if it was added by the PO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’m sure it’s just stripped off threads. Some persuasion may be necessary.
No it's all still moving in the hole. There's a lip on the piece holding the part I cut off. I'll probably cut it out and TIG a new bung in.

Now I'm debating fixing a few dents in the sheet metal, fixing the exhaust hole and repainting the sheet metal. Really, I'm trying to talk myself out of it. I don't think I can just leave it. :ROFLMAO:
 

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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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The shop is done. My first project is to get the 1948 Model A running right. The fuel bowl assembly hasn't been right since we bought it. My son had tried to take the assembly off last year, it was stuck. I soaked it with PB Blaster for a couple days. It started to turn real easy. A quarter turn and it was loose, seemed hand tight at that point. Turned and turned by hand but, didn't unscrew.

Long story short, I decided to pull the tank to see what was going on. Off goes the hood. I looked at the poor repair of the hood where it had been cut for the exhaust repair. Why people cut that hole is beyond me. Got the tank removed and could see it had been "repaired". It look like they tried solder, welding and finished with JB Weld. I need to play with it some more to decide how to make a good repair to it.

It also looks like it could use some rewiring and some new switches. The switches will be here Friday.

View attachment 284772

View attachment 284773

View attachment 284774
From the background pictures I'm jealous of new shop. My B has a cut out for the the exhaust too. It's not too hacked up and the cover is actually fabricated pretty well. There are legit cover kits though if you don't want to fab up your own to patch up yours. It seems like we're in in the same boat. My tank looks clean but I have some rust in the sediment bowl, but figured if I take the hood off to check out the tank " what's stopping me from continuing " thanks for sharing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My tank looks clean on the inside. I'm waiting on parts before I cut out the fitting and weld in a new one. Still debating painting the hood and grill. I put the new switches in and tried the headlights. They didn't work. :ROFLMAO:

They both had power, bad ground. Once I took them off it was obvious why they didn't work. They couldn't ground through all the paint.
Gas Font Heat Pattern Event
At least they are 12 volt. I polished the reflectors, put them back together. They both work!

While I'm waiting I suppose I should hook up a temp tank and run it to see if anything else needs attention.
 

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My tank looks clean on the inside. I'm waiting on parts before I cut out the fitting and weld in a new one. Still debating painting the hood and grill. I put the new switches in and tried the headlights. They didn't work. :ROFLMAO:

They both had power, bad ground. Once I took them off it was obvious why they didn't work. They couldn't ground through all the paint. View attachment 284852 At least they are 12 volt. I polished the reflectors, put them back together. They both work!

While I'm waiting I suppose I should hook up a temp tank and run it to see if anything else needs attention.
I drove myself crazy last winter for a couple of days wondering why I couldn't get one of my lights to work........until I leaned on it and discovered it was loose. Good catch with the paint. I've read about electrical issues after a restore......usually a painted ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here's proof they work...

Automotive tire Automotive wheel system Circle Auto part Metal

I made the reflectors shiny again. Forgot the after pic.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Plant Agricultural machinery Gas


Tried to fire the tractor yesterday. The plugs weren't getting fuel. Looks like I'll be nosing around in the carb. I had to lift the little tank up above the lights before it would flow fuel. I did that with the top of the carb off, nice mess on the floor.
 

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Here's proof they work...

View attachment 284873
I made the reflectors shiny again. Forgot the after pic.
View attachment 284874

Tried to fire the tractor yesterday. The plugs weren't getting fuel. Looks like I'll be nosing around in the carb. I had to lift the little tank up above the lights before it would flow fuel. I did that with the top of the carb off, nice mess on the floor.
I noticed I need a minimum of about 1 1/2 to 2 gallons in my tank for the gas to flow good. Funny how a bad gasket, or speck of rust in the carb can mess things up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I took the carb off, took it apart and sonic cleaned it. It wasn't very dirty. The cleaning solution hardly changed color. It's a little rusty. I'm going to try Metal Rescue to clean it up. It looks like many of the internals are newer. I'll see if it needs a complete rebuild. I know I should, but I don't want to. :ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Metal Rescue says it can take 24 to 48 hours to de-rust parts. I watched a YouTube video that showed a car carb cleaned in 2 hours. It also says that if you leave it in too long the part will turn black. I bought this stuff because I wanted to avoid that. That's what happened with the parts I used Evoporust on. It turn the parts black as part of the process.

I'm going to wait until morning before I start soaking the carb. I want to be able to keep an eye on it. It's not that rusty, I don't think it will take 24 hours. No worries, a new carb is only a little over 500 bucks. :ROFLMAO:
 

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Metal Rescue says it can take 24 to 48 hours to de-rust parts. I watched a YouTube video that showed a car carb cleaned in 2 hours. It also says that if you leave it in too long the part will turn black. I bought this stuff because I wanted to avoid that. That's what happened with the parts I used Evoporust on. It turn the parts black as part of the process.

I'm going to wait until morning before I start soaking the carb. I want to be able to keep an eye on it. It's not that rusty, I don't think it will take 24 hours. No worries, a new carb is only a little over 500 bucks. :ROFLMAO:
I took the carb off, took it apart and sonic cleaned it. It wasn't very dirty. The cleaning solution hardly changed color. It's a little rusty. I'm going to try Metal Rescue to clean it up. It looks like many of the internals are newer. I'll see if it needs a complete rebuild. I know I should, but I don't want to. :ROFLMAO:
Just remember
I took the carb off, took it apart and sonic cleaned it. It wasn't very dirty. The cleaning solution hardly changed color. It's a little rusty. I'm going to try Metal Rescue to clean it up. It looks like many of the internals are newer. I'll see if it needs a complete rebuild. I know I should, but I don't want to. :ROFLMAO:
There's a quote out there something about if you don't have time to do it right the 1st time you'll have to find time to do it twice. Granted many of my carbs got by with just a basic brake clean and air hose cleaning. I'm sure you don't have anything to worry about if yours isn't that dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, I had too much time on my hands today and decided to try taking a few dents out of the grill. My planishing skills ain't real bad...or the 2 dents came out easy. :ROFLMAO: That means that the hood and grill parts will have to be repainted.

I put the carb in the Metal Rescue this morning. After 3 hours the top half looked good. I took both halves out. I was surprised, it looked pretty good.

Before..
Sculpture Art Wood Font Metal


After...
Wood Gas Auto part Metal Household hardware


As you can see the bowl probably could have stayed in longer. The inside looked good. The outside will get paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Got the A running last night. Finally got around to it.🤷‍♂️ Carb seems to e working like it should. Dirty hasn't welded the gas tank yet. I haven't painted the rest of the parts yet either.

Now that in runs good I knock the rear wheels off and get the tires replaced.
 

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Got the A running last night. Finally got around to it.🤷‍♂️ Carb seems to e working like it should. Dirty hasn't welded the gas tank yet. I haven't painted the rest of the parts yet either.

Now that in runs good I knock the rear wheels off and get the tires replaced.
Nice job getting it running. What are your plans for the new tires? I've read on some other ag sites some guys are using irrigation tires as a cheaper route. The sidewalls aren't as strong, and with a more spaced out tread pattern they're rougher going down the road. Being meant to be outside year around and wet they are made with thicker rubber, and are 200.00 too 300.00 cheaper than a basic tire. Guys were saying for a show or play tractor they like them, guys who were using the tractor all the time said they hated them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nice job getting it running. What are your plans for the new tires? I've read on some other ag sites some guys are using irrigation tires as a cheaper route. The sidewalls aren't as strong, and with a more spaced out tread pattern they're rougher going down the road. Being meant to be outside year around and wet they are made with thicker rubber, and are 200.00 too 300.00 cheaper than a basic tire. Guys were saying for a show or play tractor they like them, guys who were using the tractor all the time said they hated them.
I bought tires for it a while back. I think they are in the barn. I'll get the rims off and take them to a tire shop to get mounted. I could do it, but I sure don't want to. One old tires has a hole in it and so does the tube. Hole big enough that you'd dang near need a tire to use as a boot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
We got the TIG welder working today. I put new plugs in the A and it ran pretty good and quit. We fiddled around for a bit. It'd run good, then run and quit. We had a bit of a discussion on how excited the guy was that it was running when Dirty first bought it. That lead us to saying it's a distributor problem.

With so many bad condensers out there we decided to try a different one before ordering a new distributor. I found one new in the package. Dirty went to put it in and said this screw ain't right. The screw was too small, found an 8-32 and screwed it down. Runs like a dream now.

Now I face the painting dilemma, do I or don't I? How far do I go? The parts I pounded the dents out of need paint for sure.
 

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That's what you get when you dip a toe in, then think wait maybe I wade in just to my knees, then you get brave and get to your waist. Then you get real stupid and your up to your neck and treading water, are you getting tired of it yet. :unsure::whistle:o_O:cry::censored::devilish::devilish::devilish:

Now you've really caught the JD collector syndrome!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That's what you get when you dip a toe in, then think wait maybe I wade in just to my knees, then you get brave and get to your waist. Then you get real stupid and your up to your neck and treading water, are you getting tired of it yet. :unsure::whistle:o_O:cry::censored::devilish::devilish::devilish:

Now you've really caught the JD collector syndrome!
LOL I've been doing the same crap for years. The trouble is the new shop allows me to do it all year now. :ROFLMAO: The other day my buddy stuck in my head, if I'm going to put new tires on I should take the old ones off myself, sandblast and paint the rims before the new tires go on. I'm guessing I'll want to if I see the inside of the rims.
Gas Font Heat Pattern Event
This thing is really getting some mission creep.
 
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