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Discussion Starter #1
I have restored a half dozen or so model 49's. Sold them all so trying again to restore a keeper.

Purchased model 49 s/n G049J-422563M from member Aaron in southeast Michigan with intent to restore for use on my 140 H3 obtained in collection I purchased here in southwest Wisconsin. Tractor also needs to be refreshed. Until then it may see duty on my 314/317/318. Model 49 condition as purchased:
  • Shell
    • Shell has many dents from use on gravel drive. No attempts will be made to remove dents.
    • Bottom middle of shell is bowed downward and center of cutting edge is highly worn. Shell needs to be straightend and cutting edge replaced.
    • Top of shell has slight downward bow but need straightedge to detect this.
    • The shell is structurally solid with no rust through metal but does have some cracks that will need to be welded.
    • Both skid shoes are worn and need high carbon wear strips added.
    • Shell wear plate (M424814) is damaged and will need replacing
  • Auger
    • The auger is banged up but I can straighten the bent flights and reuse it.
    • As purchased the auger would not rotate. Remove chain guard and found area full of mice nests. Chain has not been lubed for ? years and a few pins are frozen and will not flex.
    • Cleaned area and chain is significantly worn.
    • There is minimal clicking noise in auger rotation with chain removed.
    • Sprockets are in decent shape but I plan to replace 40T sprocket with a 36T and install new chain.
    • Bearing retainer on RS of auger is not assembled correctly and bearing is damaged.
    • Intent is new bearings to handle increased auger rotational speed and add paddles to the auger. I always replace the bearings if I have auger removed.
  • Gearbox/drive pulley
    • There is no undesireable noise/movement in the gearbox or drive components.
    • Gearbox lube will be changed before reassembly.
  • The snow thrower had been refreshed (rattle can paint job) by a previous owner with much overspray. Repaint will correct most of overspray issues.
  • My goal is an economy refresh. No sandblasting or powder coating. Sand and undercoat metal parts. Rusty parts will be coated with a catalyst. Then a rattle can paint job. Trying to keep costs down as $800 restorations do not sell.
Much chatter hear at the beginning but hopefully little during the restoration. Here on mostly photos with minor verbage. Post will probably become photo heavy.

Disassembly photos ...
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The rest of the story is I purchased another model 49 in original condition. This one will be for sale when I am finished. I am going to swap parts between the two like chain and sprockets. I want 36T chain so hopefully parts on second 49 are suitable replacements for this attachment. I will probably be back to work on this one Sunday before the super bowl.

I have never restored a 37/37A but have 4 of them, a couple of 32's for 60/70/80 tractors and an old model 36 for RF 110/112. The 36 is in worst condition and should be restored first. Model 49's are a simple rebuild and 37/37A looks to be similar in design but I do not recall seeing many rebuild threads talking about adding auger paddles or different sprockets to speed up the drive ... Gabby
 

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They are very similar.
I've seen a few threads were the sprocket was changed and the rubber added to the auger. I may do the auger mod but not sure I need the smaller sprocket. I need to use it more before I decide to do that or not.
So far I just needed to replace the chain to get it working as it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cleaning my driveway in town I have found just the paddles is sufficient. I just want to see what increase auger speed does ... Gabby
 

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I've seen quite a few threads about speeding up augers and it doesn't make sense to me! Yes, you're probably going to throw the snow 5', maybe 10' further, but you're putting additional strain on the drive sprocket, the chain, the gearbox, and the engine! This additional strain equates to additional wear. A new sprocket & chain every 10 years or so isn't bad. Additional load on engine just means it may loose rpm...plus wear! Ground speed will keep rpm up. And then there's the gear box! Bearings...I believe 4 for a total of $60+/- isn't too bad, but gears can get pricey! And then there's accelerated wear on keys & keyways! No thank you, I'll use my stock 49! Bob
 

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Yeah I'm with you, bob, my '49 throws even the wettest heaviest snow a good 15+ feet. Doesn't seem to need to go any faster.

Was talking to a coworker who has the 'standard' chute- mine was replaced with a 'tall' chute (i think?) by a previous owner, either way he has rubber flaps too and says he still experiences clogging... mine you can't clog it even if you try. Even shooting pure slush/ice at the end of the driveway. I'm not sure if the tall chute is that big of a difference but perhaps it is. I think it would be safer to just run your engine a little bit faster (within reason) if you really feel like it needs to go faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have decided on this rebuild that I will replace chain and sprockets with parts from the model 49 I bought from Rick. Three of the 4 bearings (rs auger, driveshaft, & idler sprocket) on this 49 are rough and need replacement so I am replacing all all four. I have not checked the gearbox bearings but normally find they a acceptable for continued use.

As for speeding up the auger speed I am satisfied with std speed but just want to see what a 36T will do with the snow. 30T or 32T to me you are inviting trouble and will not increase speed that amount.

Tomorrow I hope to have some more photos of completed work.

Gabby
 

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I've seen quite a few threads about speeding up augers and it doesn't make sense to me! Yes, you're probably going to throw the snow 5', maybe 10' further, but you're putting additional strain on the drive sprocket, the chain, the gearbox, and the engine! This additional strain equates to additional wear. A new sprocket & chain every 10 years or so isn't bad. Additional load on engine just means it may loose rpm...plus wear! Ground speed will keep rpm up. And then there's the gear box! Bearings...I believe 4 for a total of $60+/- isn't too bad, but gears can get pricey! And then there's accelerated wear on keys & keyways! No thank you, I'll use my stock 49! Bob
Changing the sprocket does not add extra strain on the engine, or the gearbox. The sprocket is the final piece in the drive line. Adding extra speed on the auger does not speed up the gearbox rpm, or add extra engine wear.
 

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Stoshu, It's all a matter of gear ration. Just using arbitrary numbers here:

If you have a shaft with a given load...like an auger with always the same amount of snow... and it takes 10 hp to turn this shaft with a 4:1 ration. Let's say 10 teeth on the drive sprocket and 40 teeth on the driven. Now change the driven to 20 teeth, that's a 2:1 ratio and it will now take 20 hp on the drive gear to turn the shaft. This additional hp needs to come from the engine and transmitted through the gearbox, shaft and keys. Bob
 

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Exactly, I know exactly what you're trying to say Bob but in this case i'm thinking in terms of torque.

I was thinking about this last night. I think the reason this 'works' or rather people get away with it is:

1) the auger is big and heavy, it carries a ton of rotational mass which helps it resist shock loads, and the chain has some additional give, so even though the gearbox is seeing higher torque its not as much abuse as direct drive
2) The limiting factor is the engine torque which is sized to the gearbox (probably oversized to the biggest engine possible, 332?)
3) the belt slip ultimately limits torque to whatever the transmission capability of the belt is, I'd guess about 25 ft lbs? I have in a pinch made mine squeal/ slip the belt but thats really givin' er.

upon further consideration i'd guess its probably not going to hurt the gearbox, maybe put extra load on it, but more importantly does it actually work better? I've only got the 16 hp single so some folks with the big twins might have different experience but my '49 will bog down the engine way before it stops chucking snow, not sure i'd want to go that direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Back to the update ...
  • the following items have been cleaned up and painted black.
    • auger (bent flights have also been straightened)
    • arm ... per PC1080 calls this is the smaller bracket that fits on the shaft and shear bolt ties the arm and auger together
    • bearing locking collars
    • drift cutter and driveshaft tube have been sanded and painted black.
    • shell and chain cover have fresh coat of yellow paint.
Still needing work...

  • mounting bracket and most of components bolted to bracket still need clean up and repaint (black)
  • lift cylinder needs repaint (black)
  • hydraulic hoses have much overspray from previous repaint. Hoses are cracked but do not leak. They will not be cleaned up but reinstalled for use.
  • Angle bracket which bolts to center of shell ahead of discharge chute needs clean up and fresh coat of yellow. I think I have a Deere decal that mounts on this bracket.
  • Skid shoes need to have paint removed and taken to Denny for weld repair. New material will be added. Then painted black. Will probably take the skid shoes from 826 and have same repair done to them.
I know I owe photos. Tomorrow morning I plan on reassembling auger into shell with new bearings. After reassembly would be a good time for photos.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I had to sand and repaint part of the shell this morning. It was painted with bottom of can and paint job was spattered. It still need another sanding and light coat to get satisfactory finish.

Also painted some of the other parts.

I had photos but don't know what happened to them when I downloaded them to the computer. The files became corrupt so will go get some more. Some of the photos cannot be duplicated but will get photos of current status.

Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The first three photos are snow thrower being reassembled. Auger has been installed in the shell and drift cutter bar and chain cover temporarily installed. Due to original condition of model 49 decision was made not to spend money on sandblast and powder coating. Rebuild will be 100% mechanical but appearance will only be about 7 on a scale of 10. I still need to install keys in auger and lock the collars into position after setting the auger in correct position.

Spent some time today prepping other parts for paint. Used heat gun to remove a painted over decal on the short chute which will be reinstalled. I will clean up and paint the tall chute also to use on another project. I will be selling this model 49 so if buyer wants the tall chute and is willing to pay additional amount it will be ready to install. The center angle bracket also has a painted over decal I need to remove and bracket painted. I think I have a new decal in inventory so it will be replaced.

Lift cylinder has been painted and hoses reinstalled. The original hoses have yellow overspray from PO repaint. They will be the sore eyes of the project. Again, I do have replacement hoses in inventory that I can install if buyer wants them.

Tearing down the mounting bracket for repaint. PO paint job painted the bracket yellow with overspray on pulleys, shafts, springs, pins, etc. They will all be repainted black to be color correct.
I have found the most difficult task on these rebuilds is removing the drive pulley on the gearbox. I have damaged many pulleys removing them so am being cautious not to damage the pulley. It is expensive and I do not want to have to replace it.

Second most difficult task is replacing the bearing on the driveshaft. The complete length of the driveshaft needs to be cleaned with emery cloth. The bearing is rough on the SB so will need to replace the bearing.

Last photo is the skid shoes that need weld repair and repaint.

I figure I have 4-5 days to complete this project but need to get to my rural property to some work done on my new shop. Menards 11% Rebate expires Sunday and I need to return two door and replace them with fire rated doors.

Gabby
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Rattle can paint job and no sandblasting is not giving me the quality I saw in other restorations but due to the dented up shell I felt it best to keep costs down and try to recoup all expenditures. Yes it looks good but a person's worst critic is himself ... Gabby
 

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I'm hoping mine will turn out to be a 5 or 6. Anything is better than what it is now. But, like you, I'm planning on focusing on mainly the mechanics of it.
 

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I found when doing my tiller that, if I filled in the scratches in the original paint with primer and spent the time sanding it smooth, I could make a pretty decent rattle can paint job.
Probably won't do that on my blower because there are more scratches and rust than original paint left on it.

How hard was it to straighten out the bent part at the front of the shell? I have the same thing on mine that I need to straighten out.
 

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Looking good Gabby! I just saw a 49 by me for sale. The seller wants $50 bucks. Looks like it is missing chain cover, pulley, shaft and gearbox. Just might be worth looking at. Same person has an 80 cart with rust thru in cart bed.
 
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