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1974 112, snowblower, mowing deck and plow blade
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Hi All
Been perusing posts about folks having problems with the electric lift on a JD 112.
When I first bought this tractor, about a year ago, the lift worked. Turns out the stator was bad and not recharging the battery. This summer, the lift started working intermittently. Now, it doesn't move at all. I have replaced the stator. I hear a "click" when I flip the switch to raise or lower, but, no movement. I have verified that there is connectivity between the poles of the switch, and 12 volts go across the terminals when the switch is toggled either direction.
I have no clue where to look for the breaker points, though, so, hoping somebody can give a pictorial of where I should even be looking. Rather hoping to not have to tear things apart to get at them to test that they are good (how would I test that?).
Once that is confirmed, if those are good, would I then move on to the solenoids, or is that the click I am hearing (which I assume would indicate the breaker points are good too)?
Finally, if everything else is good, I assume I am down to replacing the lift motor, which I assume I need to get under the tractor to do. Since I need to replace the brake bands, I am guessing that would be the time to do that as well.
Are there other tests I can do to validate the lift motor works, before I start randomly replacing pieces?
Many thanks in advance. I am hoping to be able to get this thing functional before snow hits, so I can attach the snow blower and be ready for the New England winter.
 

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Remove the battery tray. There should be 2 solenoids on the flywheel side. There should be constant power on one side of each solenoid. When you move the switch up or down the activated solenoid will have power on the opposite side.
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Look under your tractor for the wire going to the lift actuator. There should be a connector on the wire. unplug it and use a meter on the control end. One wire should have voltage when the switch is activated in one the direction, the other wire will be a ground. When you activate the switch in the other direction, the process reverses, So what was the ground in the first step now should have voltage, and the other wire is now the ground. If everything is good, then the issue is probably in the actuator. There's a coil spring in it that can break and pretty much turns the actuator into a lump of metal.
 

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New anxiety for my 112.
There's a coil spring in it that can break and pretty much turns the actuator into a lump of metal.
 

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I have five tractors with electric lifts, a 110, two 112's, a 210 and a 214. I've had the electric motor separated from the actuator and have seen the spring. The motor has a special drive "claw" on it that pushes against the spring, which drives the actuator. Last I looked, the spring is NLA from Deere. If you can find one, Deere made a lift assist spring kit to help the electric lift on the electric lift 110's and 112's. If you are considering using a electric lift 110 or 112 to run a snow blower and/or a tiller, I would suggest trying to locate one of these helper spring kits. It will help take some of the lifting stress off of the electric actuator. Also, as soon as you hear clicking from the actuator, let go of the switch. This way you don't burn up the lift motor and over tension the coil spring in the actuator.
 

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@jake_vc is this lift assist spring the same ting as the spring I need to tension for the mowing deck? Guessing not, but, seems worth asking.
No, it is a completely different kit. The part that the spring is fastened too hooks around a part of the tractor frame, the piece with the stud and U shaped cutout goes on the rockshaft. The spring mainly helps in lifting.
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