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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 88 316 refurb project is moving along, ive got the motor out and am sealing up some oil leaks on it, i replaced all the hydro hoses on the tractor, but am not quite ready to fill it up, bc i am replacing the h1 valve with a 317 h2 valve, and am waiting on some parts to come in to actually hook it up. My question is, am i safe to push the tractor in and out of the garage with the hydro drained? I would just use a jack or car wheel dollies, but i wanna get it out on the gravel drive to degrease/pressure wash before the motor goes back in.....
 

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You will be fine as long as you just push it by hand. May still need to use the hydro release if there is oil in the pump.

Never will be able to get all the fluid out so the moving parts will still be coated with some oil for the little bit of time they are moving at slow speed and under no power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, i had a feeling it would be ok, but, having almost no understanding of how a hydrostatic actually works made me nervous. Another question, if i took off the input shaft into the pump, (to gain more access to put on two non swivel 90* fittings for my new hoses) and the rotating "pump" part behind that housing for the input shaft swung down and moved out of position, is this trouble? My question is, is this part of the pump "synced" to the rest of the hydro? Kind of tough to explain, i hope this makes sense. When i buttoned it all back up i just lined everything up with fingers so that the input shaft housing slid on easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tom, thank you! I did not know such info was available! Getting this pile of nuts and bolts to look like a tractor again will be a breeze now....i now know the piece i was talking about is the gerotor.
 

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Yes it is very safe to say that you can move it around with no harm…
Heat and contaminates is where the trouble begins …. as in if you were to tow it down the road for any distance, that would generate heat …. As a precaution cap off all open hyd ports and keep it clean until you are ready to proceed with your project
 

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Due to the gear reduction (opposite when your "powering the wheels") on the rear end, towing any speed over 5mph causes the speed of the hydro to increase over what its mean to be. That and a lack of proper lubrication and the plungers like to leave their bores.
 

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I had a neighbor with a 425 that died at the end of his driveway(40ft) and pushed it in to his garage and he had the lever turned to push manually and he took out the rearend. there are two brass swashplates in the rearend that if they don't have oil they get scratches in then, then over time the steering gets hard and when the oil gets warm the tractor slows way down. My local deere dealer service tech says it's better to lock parkbrake and let the rear tires slide then to push the tractor, he tells me 10ft is enough to do some serious damage
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wow. Now i dont know what to think. I may have pushed it a dozen feet. After i got the rolling chassis all cleaned up and degreased, i had to hook up a come along to pull it back in, due to the small slope and the 4" dropoff from the garage floor to the driveway. I took it real slow, like one click at a time with the come along, hopefully all is well with the insides. It does seem like others recomend dragging the back tires over using the freewheel valves too



from here to just outside the door is all the further she went.

(Message edited by treed on April 01, 2014)
 

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Sam
Another option would be to use two furniture dollies on the rear wheels. Assuming you have a way to lift the tractor. Then two small boards or piece of plywood to get you over the drop off.
Dollies are useful for many chores.
Could you post a picture on how the JD front weight bracket is attached to the rear of this tractor?
Thanks,
Bob C.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think i may just unroll some heavy duty plastic around it to make an upside down tent, to catch all the greasy oily gunk, and use a pump sprayer instead of a pressure washer. It will take longer, but i wont have to worry about ruining the hydro. The dollies are another good option, even just for moving it around inside the garage, i may try to get some casters from harbor freight and whip some up. Bob C, im away from the tractor at the moment, but will try to get a pic later...basically, i made a very rudimentary sleeve hitch, and then i welded a small"C" piece onto the very bottom center of the weight bracket, to accept the pin at the sleeve hitch. It was a rush job last fall to get some traction on the goat trail(thats what my wife calls the driveway) ill try to get some pics up soon
 

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I drug a 318 around a good 1000 ft or better between dragging it to the trailer, unloading it at home, then dragging it to wash it down and then to the garage. I got it running that same weekend and drove it around quite a bit and never had any problems. Just make sure you release the hydro and you shouldn't have any problems.

I've moved several tractors by pushing them short distances and never had any problems there either.
 

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Andrew I have done the same with my 318 for years.If I would run out of gas push down the hydro release arm and push it to my shop or let it roll down the driveway to my shop and it would roll pretty fast. 24 years old and no problems. So what's going on here. Dave ????????????
 

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Hello Sam
Back when I found my son in law's 1991 John Deere 316 and went to look at it, I noticed where it had ben dragged or pushed across the seller's lawn and the rear wheel's had skidded on his Grass as it was not in free wheel position. I was a Bit concerned about it's hydro unit due to this but I unlocked it, loaded it up and when I got it running it was fine. I never move a Hydro Tractor without Taking into Free wheel position if the engine is Not running. Regards, Kurt
 

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Here is a copy and paste from Jim's repair about this subject.



Sundstrand hydrostatic transmission

Cub Cadet, Simplicity, Alles Chalmers, Ariens, and John Deere have garden tractor models that have hydrostatic transmissions. If you have problems with a hydrostatic transmission normally you have to make a decision to:

a: Rebuild it. (somewhat expensive and can be done only if the parts can be found)
b: Replace it. (very expensive and only if the same or compatible transmission can be found) or
c: Get a different garden tractor.

Obviously it’s best if you prevent problems with the hydro transmission before they happen. One of the most common and preventable causes of the hydrostatic transmission failing is pulling/towing the garden tractor. Just don’t do it, not even a short distance. If we need to move a non-running garden tractor around the shop we will even skid the wheels rather than take the chance of ruining a good transmission. We specifically overhaul Sundstrand hydrostatic transmissions, there are other brands. These are a couple of e-mailed questions we have answered about Sundstrand hydrostatic transmissions. It will give you an idea of the symptoms of the hydrostatic transmission failing and a few things to check out before you overhaul or replace it.
Tom
 

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Sam,
Can you hit your "Enter" key on your keyboard a couple of times before and after each and every picture. It will keep the pictures from stacking horizontally (along with the text) and forcing members to scroll from left to right on the entire page. Thanks.
 

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Not to be obtuse or anything, but why would Deere build on the freewheel valve (or sunstrand engineer it?) if using it could wreck the Trans? Also, does the OM say anything about transporting the tractor with the motor off? I don't have one, and would sure appreciate it if some one could consult that, and post it up here! Thank you!

Max
 
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