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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I own a 314, 316K and 318. I also have a 140 with a chipper shredder and 112 Hydraulic lift for sale with 5 decks and tons of extra parts!
My question is:
1. Are all mule drives interchangeable from 140, 300, 314, 318 and other 300 series?
2. Are the belt lengths the same? I need a mule/deck belt for my 316K and 314.
3. Would you know the belt part numbers?
4. Would the model 49 snowblower belt work on all the 300 series?
5. I need a mule cover.

thanks in advance!
 

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The draft arms are different from the 140 to the 300 series mule drive, but the pulleys and main body are the same.

Best way to find your specific belt needs would be to go to Deere parts and do a search on the decks you have. They will indicate which belt you need for each machine the deck fits. I suspect the 316 & 314 might take the same belt, but that's a just a WAG.

Same for the model 49.

Ebay or Auxiliary hydraulics for a cover.
 

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As stated, you need to know what size deck you're using...distance from deck drive pulley to mule drive determines belt length, and that differs among different size decks. The John Deere Parts catalog online should put you on track.
 

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I own a 314, 316K and 318. I also have a 140 with a chipper shredder and 112 Hydraulic lift for sale with 5 decks and tons of extra parts!
My question is:
1. Are all mule drives interchangeable from 140, 300, 314, 318 and other 300 series?
2. Are the belt lengths the same? I need a mule/deck belt for my 316K and 314.
3. Would you know the belt part numbers?
4. Would the model 49 snowblower belt work on all the 300 series?
5. I need a mule cover.

thanks in advance!
Here I go again being controversial. If you have the old belt, just measure it. Cut if necessary then go buy a belt from any farm or auto store of that length. If you don't have the belts, use a piece of rope to thread around the pullies and measure that. It will give you a very close starting point. (But it won't help you a bit at the dealer) The blades will still cut grass without the sacred Johe Deere belts. If your mower and drives are original, buy "B" belts or 5/8" and they will run forever if all is correct and in good shape. I can't remember the last time I bought a belt. But it wasn't the expensive Deere brand.
 
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Ditto...right now I'm using a TSC blue kevlar generic belt on my 322 from mule drive to deck. It works well and only cost about $25...obsoleted JD belt was like $95, I'll pass on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll have to check for deck tag, I don't have a pic of it. Any ideas? 46?
Wheel Tire Vehicle Tractor Automotive tire

I got these with a 140/112 deal, that is not for a 112, but I feel they are the same as the others I have.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread

316, replacement deck with vac pulley? at the chute and a clean out hole in the rear. No Tag! It appears as a 48?
Tire Wheel Vehicle Hood Automotive tire
 

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I'll have to check for deck tag, I don't have a pic of it. Any ideas? 46?
View attachment 270535
I got these with a 140/112 deal, that is not for a 112, but I feel they are the same as the others I have.
View attachment 270536
316, replacement deck with vac pulley? at the chute and a clean out hole in the rear. No Tag! It appears as a 48?
View attachment 270537

I think both decks are 46, one w/o the front wheels) is an older version. The one with front wheels is the newer version.

Both of those mule drives appear to be for 140's. Note: there is a narrow one (41 deck) and a wide one (really early 48 and the 46's)
 

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As for belts, even if you knew the correct number it wouldn't do you much good in any other place but a John Deere parts counter. They have a habit of assigning their specific numbers to everything they sell even if it's a simple generic item like a belt or bearing. Even bolts and cotter pins have a number. Every once in a while they slip up and publish enough info so you can go to the nearest hardware store rather than their parts counters. If you can find it. Get's frustrating when you doing major work on these things.

With the 420 I'm currently working on, they apparently couldn't decide to use SAE or metric. There's a mixture of each. Not to mention they have a habit of reusing model numbers on numerous machines. You need to be careful to make sure you're looking at the right parts page. I have a nephew who worked in a farm implement dealership (Case) his entire life and hates working on John Deeres for that reason alone. He says he spends more time in the books than wrenching.

But we love our little green machines anyway. It's the added challenge I guess.
 

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I think both decks are 46, one w/o the front wheels) is an older version. The one with front wheels is the newer version.

Both of those mule drives appear to be for 140's. Note: there is a narrow one (41 deck) and a wide one (really early 48 and the 46's)
I think the difference in width is because one has the front guard in place, the other two do not.
 

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I think the difference in width is because one has the front guard in place, the other two do not.
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I wasn't saying both of those are different, just that there are 2 styles of draft arms for the 140 mules (alone together in the picture).

I think all of them are shown in the appropriate parts diagrams for each of the decks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK, so the mules are both for 140s and will not work on the 314 or 316?
I would have to really put them side by side and take it all in, the difference.

Maybe I'll just take the belts off and take them with me to an auto shop.

I think the 314 has a tag on the deck, the newer model on the 316 does not.

I will be taking the decks off from them soon and I will get them all set up for next spring.
 

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OK, so the mules are both for 140s and will not work on the 314 or 316?
I would have to really put them side by side and take it all in, the difference.
They might work, I have never laid the 332/50 mule next to the 140/46. So it may work, the easiest way would be to just give it a whirl, it only takes a second to hook up a Deere deck.

Again, the actual mule drives are all the same, the only thing that changes from deck to deck are the arms that attach to the deck.

AFAIK, Any mule drive from a 140 through a 332 should interchange as far as physically mounting to the tractors.

Remember, you'll have to make adjustments if the MD & deck haven't been on that particular tractor before. It should be pretty clear if they are close.
 

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They might work, I have never laid the 332/50 mule next to the 140/46. So it may work, the easiest way would be to just give it a whirl, it only takes a second to hook up a Deere deck.

Again, the actual mule drives are all the same, the only thing that changes from deck to deck are the arms that attach to the deck.

AFAIK, Any mule drive from a 140 through a 332 should interchange as far as physically mounting to the tractors.

Remember, you'll have to make adjustments if the MD & deck haven't been on that particular tractor before. It should be pretty clear if they are close.
I was about to say the same thing. The only difference I'm familiar with is the 318's and later had a slightly different drawbar arrangement. That was done so the deck could be adjusted without disconnecting the mule drive arms. But the dimensions were the same.

Same advice. Give it a try.
 
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I was about to say the same thing. The only difference I'm familiar with is the 318's and later had a slightly different drawbar arrangement. That was done so the deck could be adjusted without disconnecting the mule drive arms. But the dimensions were the same.

Same advice. Give it a try.
Just looked at the fiche, the 46 deck MD shows both the newer style and the older style. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/72258/referrer/navigation/pgId/28274697

The plate AM100015 is the same for the 46 deck and the 50.

I don't normally bet, but I bet those mules will work fine. :)
 

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I highly recommend this cover if you haven't found/purchased one yet.

I recently purchased it and it was worth every penny. Very high quality piece that'll outlive the tin can metal one from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OK, so I was mowing with the 314 last night kinda testing as it is still new to me, I went over the ditch bank like I do with the others and the mower quit, threw the mule belt. I pulled back into the shop and went to pull the deck to give a go over, but I could not get the mule off, litterally had to beat it off from the frame! I also had to remove the front bezel plate (hydraulic outlet area) in order to pull the mule off, no other way.

Anyway, here is what I found. The main drive pulley on the deck has a wobble, not sure if it is shaft or pulley yet, it was dark. I'll keep an update.

The mule however is as shown
314 on the right, 140 on the left. They look identical from what I can tell. But is that what a 314 would look like? Is it also normal to pull the front to remove the mule? I have never done that on any deere ever.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wheel Road surface Asphalt


314 on the left this shot.Arms are longer and seem bent. One end was repaired. Funny, I have 3 mules with no covers. I appears like I could clean and swap out the drive.
Automotive tire Gas Composite material Concrete Metal
 

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No, you shouldn't have to pull the front bezel plate. Did you disconnect the front pins on the deck before you attempted to remove the mule drive? Usually, the problem is just the opposite as the thing tends to fall off way too easy when installing the deck. The install sequence for installing the deck that works for me is to hang the mule, connect the front two pins to the deck. Attach the two spring-loaded pins on the forward lift holes in arms, then connect the lift cylinder pins. Removal in reverse. It also helps to lower the deck mow height so the deck is resting on the ground when removing. When installing be sure to route the drive belt properly before attaching the front deck pins. Or, you'll be taking it off again.

There is a difference between those two for sure. But it appears there is enough thread to allow proper leveling of the deck with either. It's hard to tell in the photos. And the right-hand clevis on the left-hand drive is homemade. I can't tell exactly where the pinhole is. It likely took the maker of that clevis longer to fab it than it would to buy a real one. Folks do some strange things.

As for the front covers, they have no other function than acting as belt guards. The tension gauge is reference only when tightening the belt. It is not required for operation and many folks run without it. But always good to have on. Aside from safety, it helps to keep debris from getting into the belts. And your fingers of course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
jetjoe, Thanks! I don't know why I had to pull the cover, but the mule was not coming off without it being done and I did release all pins, belt! It doesn't appear bent.
The clevis is jacked ho made, but works. I think the plate/arms on mine are bent to heck also, This is why I want to use the other and feel I can.

They appear to be the same mule otherwise, so I think I'll try it.
I just like the front cover because thats how it came. If I can find one cheap, I'll throw it on, but not worrying about it right now.

I have never had an issue installing or removing a belly deck on a dear and I have done many including the old round fender (bug eye) 110s! In fact, I am super fast at it.

I also have the wobble in the drive spindle or pulley to contend with.
 
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