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Thanks to all who had suggestions about repairs for a 314 mule drive. Does anybody in the forum have pics of their mule drive set up? My pulleys have dug into the front axle unbeknownst to me until I took the mule drive off last season. Some folks have suggested welding a new piece on the adjusting bolt shaft but I can't envision it. Any additional help would be appreciated.. Thanks in advance. Vooch
 

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Steve
If you want I can rebuild it for you. Depending on how bad it is. Ive done a few alredy. Restores it to nearly new. Did it to both my 318 abd 314. The 318 was the worst with one side 3/16" out of round. Runs great now. No digital pics as yet. Write me an e-mail. Perhaps we can work something out.
Eric
 

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Steve,
There are several possible reasons for mule drive pulley rubbing--having things mounted wrong, having a bad pulley, and as the members describe in your other post, having the cross shaft wear into the body of the mule drive leaving a lot of slop in the cross shaft/pulley assembly. I happen to have a mule drive apart ready to do a rebuilt much as Wayne described in your other post. It is not welded yet (I was saving up several small welding projects), but maybe the pictures will help. You need to totally disassemble the mule drive, removing the cover and taking out the cotter pins holding together the shaft and spring (careful, the spring is under tension and can pop out and ding you). Pull out the inner, smaller cross shaft. The larger (3/4" o.d.) shaft and arm was welded after assembly and cannot be removed. My first picture shows how the hole in the right side of the frame is expanded, but the more important wear is actually on the end of the cross shaft. The second picture shows inside of the mule drive frame with the cross shaft pulled out of the hole. The third picture shows a 3/4" i.d. x 1" o.d. x 5/8" long bushing I added to the cross shaft (I cut this bushing from a category 1 to category 2 three point sleeve adapter). This bushing will be mig welded to the side of the frame, giving a tight, better-than-original support for the cross shaft (if you put a grease zerk on the bushing, the repair might last 50 years!). The left side of this mule drive frame was hardly worn, and I am not doing any repair there. However, Wayne described in the earlier post that a bushing split in half can be welded to the left side if necessary (the thing does not come apart to add a whole bushing). You may want to look at the JD parts page to see the mule drive components for reassembly. This is not a tough rebuild if you have the equipment, and should not be expensive at a welding shop if you have the thing disassembled. Hope this helps.
Harold



 

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Harold - Steve
this is what I did to fix mine also, but with a heavier piece of metal. The first one i did with a square block of metal with the core cut out to the dia. of the shaft. This did have to be modified because the yoke going from the mule drive to the deck hit it when elevated. You have a good idea too with the bushing welded over the shaft. We have to be diligent in finding ways to repair these machines as the cost of a mule drive is a third of what I paid for the tractor. Keep up the good work. Eric
 

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I've a noisey mule drive because of slop in that hollow cross shaft. I've been thinking of cutting the shaft to get it out and re-bush it. Never thought of splitting the bushings. HOLY COW what a great place to exchange ideas.

Thanks Harold. Sometimes you can't see the simple solutions for the complicated ones.
 

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Webmasters - I recommend Harold's solution to go into the archives. That's a neat needed solution that is going to be more needed as time goes along.
 

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Talk about a timely thread... how's this for wear - it actually ate into the smaller rod inside!!




Now to come up with a bushing source!
Oh, and the metal rod that goes inside the tension spring elongated the mounting hole on the bottom to nearly all the way thru the edge and wore away half of the last 3rd of the rod where it slid inside the hole!!


(Message edited by linkschamp on May 07, 2006)
 

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Steve, my 314's mule drive was repaired by welding a large hex nut as a bushing, one on each side in the same position as shown in Harold's post. It was done by a previous owner, so I'm not sure just how it was done. It would be a good idea to drill out the threads of the nut to increase the bearing surface. I will see if I can get a photo of the repair.
-Schreck
 

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Looks like they were brazed on.
The drive is installed but the grille is not, so this is looking down at the repair, towards the deck nose roller. Kind of dirty in there.


 
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