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That sucker looks like it's going to be pretty stout and quite heavy all on it's own. :eek:
 

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i'll have to go back and look at the thread on my mini payloader build, i remember doing a test where i extended both cylinders and compared reservoir level. of course that was a 2.5 x 10 and a 2" x 16, so the level will likely drop a little bit more on this setup.
If you're intending to use a single action cylinder, I'm afraid you'll never have enough oil. If you use a double-action you'll be returning about the same amount as your using. But, they take more power to operate. If it were me, I would plan on an electric remote pump with enough reservoir to supply the cylinder. But I too think you're asking an awful lot of that little tractor. You do very nice work though. Well done.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
485 lbs so far, with the two cylinders thrown in. still need to add the tongue, coupler and jack, and side walls, tailgate. i have a couple 3/32" sheets of aluminum for the deck and sides.
at this point only 100 lbs tongue weight. but maybe a little more when it's done.

the front cross member of the main frame is setup to be an oil reservoir, so i have the option to do an onboard hydraulic system if the tractor hydraulics are too slow or weak.
getting close to testing that out once my hose and fittings come in.
 

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i went with the 50 degree coupler just in case plan B is needed where i mount a small gas engine to the tongue and use the built in oil reservoir in that front square tubing.

View attachment 270821
Looks to be a pretty stout frame!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
thanks! it's 3x3x1/8" and 2x3x1/8" with 2x2x1/8" tongue and bracing. currently up to 520 lbs total and still have the sides, tailgate and decking to go.
 

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thanks! it's 3x3x1/8" and 2x3x1/8" with 2x2x1/8" tongue and bracing. currently up to 520 lbs total and still have the sides, tailgate and decking to go.
May need to make the wheels have brakes!
 
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I've been hauling a lot of paver sand with my 80 cart. Up about a 10 grade I would guess and that makes the now 20 hp 317 grunt a bit. On wet grass it breaks loose fairly easy. Just saying.
 
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A full 80 cart is hard up a grade on grass or loose dry dirt and wet dirt. My 80 cart has been extended with wood that slips inside the bed. Super heavy and I need to get a running start to get up the little grade going up into my backyard.

This thing I’d assume would definitely need a locking diff or locking diffs in a 4x4 tractor going up any type of grade with grass or loose dirt. Hard packed clay might not be as much of an issue.

I still dig the construction part of the build.
 

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A full 80 cart is hard up a grade on grass or loose dry dirt and wet dirt. My 80 cart has been extended with wood that slips inside the bed. Super heavy and I need to get a running start to get up the little grade going up into my backyard.

This thing I’d assume would definitely need a locking diff or locking diffs in a 4x4 tractor going up any type of grade with grass or loose dirt. Hard packed clay might not be as much of an issue.

I still dig the construction part of the build.
I'll bet Paul is like the rest of us. Buy the tractor, build or buy something too big for it, and that justifies yet a bigger tractor. Works every time. :) He'll have one hell of a trailer to pull with whatever.

I should have mentioned that my 317 has turf tires and no weights. Just the 50" mower deck under it. And of course 210 lbs of me. It's not a pulling machine at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
i also have a 1986 Ford 1110 compact diesel 4WD, 1500 lb machine i can pull with if i need to, but for lighter loads, mulch, leaves, weeds, i think the 317 will do ok. my lot is flat anyway.
i was thinking to load this trailer with my little backhoe, take the dirt away and dump it, but as you say traction will be the determining factor on how much i load onto it.

i was thinking of using some brakes from a golf cart, the person i got these wheels from used to sell used golf carts and has the shoe brake setup for these, just not sure how they would mount in my case but would make a nice parking brake, etc anyway. good thought!
 

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Not sure on how dump trailers are set up in Europe but probably could look at those for inspiration for a brake set up, tractors running 50kph (~31-32mph) hauling multiple times their weight is pretty common over there.
 
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My opinion is a 317 will have its hands full handling this trailer full of dirt/ rocks. We haven't seen the bed size yet so could be wrong. Keep up the good work and prove me wrong.

Again ... Gabby
 
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I thought Surplus Center sold brake systems but checked and did not find them.

Hydraulic drum brakes with surge actuator mounted on hitch?
 
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Army probably knows how to do golf cart brakes on anything.
Got news for ya. I bought all my brake parts for the last 317 project at a golf cart repair store. Exact match. If you have the patients to do the research. I came upon that by accident while repairing a friend's golf cart.
 
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i also have a 1986 Ford 1110 compact diesel 4WD, 1500 lb machine i can pull with if i need to, but for lighter loads, mulch, leaves, weeds, i think the 317 will do ok. my lot is flat anyway.
i was thinking to load this trailer with my little backhoe, take the dirt away and dump it, but as you say traction will be the determining factor on how much i load onto it.

i was thinking of using some brakes from a golf cart, the person i got these wheels from used to sell used golf carts and has the shoe brake setup for these, just not sure how they would mount in my case but would make a nice parking brake, etc anyway. good thought!
Ah! so Paul has an ace in the hole. I think he may be building that cart with the Ford in mind?
 

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Looking sharp!
Wondering, will plans be available after you complete it?
 
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