[oleboy]

Howdy all.

I recently picked up my first John Deere. A 1971 JD140-H1 with a suspected broken rod. I figured it to be a great winter project for $300.

I pulled the head off the engine to have a peak before I took it to the shop for a rebuild evaluation.

I've currently got everything not seen on the frame de-greased and stripped to bare metal. I just need to make the decision whether I want to have it painted automotive style, or powder-coated. I was told that powder coating is the best way to go for durability.

I tried to upload images here. Too much trouble.
Here's a link with images from the start.
http://1drv.ms/1pdAwIb

Here's the JD80 Cart I plan on rejuvinating. I picked it up for $250
http://1drv.ms/1pSfJzf

 

[shivelyt]

Dominico,
Great pictures of your restoration. Keep em' coming.
Tom

 

[oleboy]

I want to thank all those who have (or had) a JD140 that has shared their knowledge here in any given situation. I've read nearly everything I could find here in the forums (and elsewhere online) regarding them, before I decided I wanted one myself.

Once the tractor was in my garage, I was feeling uneasy about the dis-assembly of it after seeing how complex it actually was in such a small package. Little by little I began taking things apart. Adjusting, cleaning, etc. Next thing I knew I had the engine out. And a couple days later there were parts and pieces scattered everywhere on the shop floor. "GULP". I've dismantled a few vehicles that have been restored and got through it fine, and with great results. So I continued.

The more I tear things apart, the more it feels like building those plastic Revell models.

Have a great weekend everyone.
Dom

 

[wyogreen]

All those pictures should come in real handy when it's time to put it back together!

Good luck on your project, Steve

 

[dave24319]

lOVE THE 140!

lOOKS GREAT!

Dave

 

[mikeduwe]

Looks like a nice 140 to start with.

I have tried paint strippers, wire wheels and what not in the past, its hard to beat sandblasting though!

 

[oleboy]

I'd originally started removing paint with my small air grinder by use of rol-loc sanding discs. I found to be going through them quickly as they'd plug up with paint. Then I changed over to liquid paint stripper that's made for aircraft. The paint stripper is fast. Get it on the brush, swipe one way, and before getting to the end of the brush stroke, the paint is literally bubbled and can be scraped off. Using it reminded me of the sound of bacon cooking it's so strong.

Sandblasting is the way to go I bet!

 

[HodakaD]

Although a lot of things now days come powder coated, I think that paint is still the way to go. Here are my reasons why. First of all, paint can be touched up if you get a scratch. Secondly, if you get a scratch in powder coating, and it starts to flake off, I don't know how you stop it. If you look at some of the newer trailers that are powder coated, once it starts to go, soon big sections of the material flake off. If I was building a show tractor, I might powder coat it. I probably wouldn't a tractor that I was going to use though.

Dan

 

[KB]

if powder coat is flaking, it was not applied right.and probably had too long of a delay from blasting to coating. and or the skipped a rust neutralization step in between.

Proper powder coat is tougher, and better adhered then paint, and it you do get a chip, it can be filled with paint

 

[oleboy]

I spoke with a long time friend of mine who has been in the autobody & painting trade for many years, about my restoration project and the best approach in the paint. He told me for cost effectiveness, durability and longevity, powdercoating is the best method. My friend estimated the cost to powdercoat $500.00 or less based on the amount of preparation I've done. I have all (or plan too) parts and pieces disassembled, de-greased, and stripped of all paint. Also, all areas of surface rust have been wire brushed while rinsing under water while eliminating as much as possible.

I called and spoke with the powder-coaters to get an idea of cost, based on preparation and readiness already done. The gentlemen I spoke too confirmed that the approach I've taken "will" save quite a bit on prep and clean-up (sandblasting) time/cost.

I also inquired about areas of mating surfaces. Shaft-to-bushings, bearings-to-race, nut to bolt, and other pre-preparation I can do to have my parts on-the-ready. He stated that they will mask, plug and protect everything necessary to avoid fouling of areas I don't (or should not be) painted.

My JD colors are in stock he stated, as there are a few collectors in the area they do work for all the time. The color choice is up to me. Cost is the same unless added colors are put into the mix.

I was told average turn-around (start to finish on their part) is one week.

 

[oleboy]

I made a little progress. The tractor is stripped to the frame.
Everything not already, was de-greased, washed, and blown dry with the air nozzle.
Nut & bolts cleaned, bagged and tagged.

By the way, what's the procedure to get the rear brake drums off? Do I need a puller?

One more thing. The rear axle/tranny, should I remove the physical pumpkin gears, transmission, etc, when I have it powdercoated? Thinking the seals would get cooked @ 400 degrees. Someone please confirm I "should"

 

[oleboy]

Nothing much to update since my previous post. I did, however pick up a nice, complete H3 conversion as an upgrade.
The tractor is in pieces, cleaned, stripped of all paint, and has been residing in totes ready for powder coating. My job has taken my time since.
I'm hopeful that I can find time to get everything to the powdercoater b4 winter.

 

[oleboy]

Today I picked up a nice set of 1" axle narrow front rims. One step closer to my goal of bringing this ole girl back to the dancing floor.
If anyone can help me find a nice AM34091 - HD Air Filter kit/assembly, your help would be appreciated.

Thanks Guys & Gals.
Dominico