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Great job getting everything torn down. Interesting that my foot supports are bolted to the frame and yours are welded. I didn't realize this was something they changed, someone who knows more of the details of these tractors may be able to clear that up. I put some comments in the quote below, I hope they are helpful, keep up the good work!

So here is where I stand as of now.

I have it fully disassembled and down to the frame. I was too tired to wash it other than a brief once over.

Now for the "fun" parts:
1. The screws holding the levers for the choke and throttle are fully striped. There is zero way to get a bite on them. So the question is IF I Dremel these and cut them apart (I can get the mounting screws and nuts off the base) how expensive? The choke one is broken so I'm going to need to replace it anyways.

2. The underside was a lot more frustrating so the labeling didn't go as well. Going to need a lot of pointers at reassembly time.

  • Lots of good schematics available for re assembly. You will be fine, ask if you need help.
3. I've got 5 boxes of parts! At least they roughly go together.

4. Im not sure of the next step. I know I need to strip teh frame and the parts but I'm wondering if I need to pull apart the engine, inspect, repaint first and then likewise with the tranny.

  • The engine is quite simple and easy to rebuild if needed, so it is likely worth going through. Get a manual, they are available online. Tranny as you call it will at least need seals and new oil. If no problem shifting, I would not disassemble (IMHO). If your wheel hubs have excess play, you may need to find some better ones. Most are pretty worn and wobble.
  • Zip Strip worked pretty good on my frame, it was too big for my blast cabinet.
5. Havent even touched the mower deck but everything spins. I'm thinking that is the last thing to do.
  • Seems logical to me, you can work on that while driving the restored tractor around.
6. Nothing was really too stuck on the tractor, the worst was the cotter pins to be quite honest.

7. I've got the steering linkage out in two pieces including the front (strut?) where the wheels attach. I'm guessing those aren't going to be easy to pull apart? But now that I have everything disassembled... in my vice carefully wrapped?
  • Mine came apart quite easily in the vise.
8. The speed lever on the right side.... the nut holding it tight appears to have been sheared. Going to have to tap it by the look of it.
  • Not sure which nut you are talking about, but just about every part of these tractors can be found on Ebay.
Anyways, enough work for today...









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That is a pin that you drive up towards the handle. The handle is hollow and "catches it" and then you can remove the handle and finish disassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
That is a pin that you drive up towards the handle. The handle is hollow and "catches it" and then you can remove the handle and finish disassembly.
Ok... but best way to remove it?

Edit: I just remove the upper handle does it tap out or is it threaded?


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Take a small drift and drive the pin in until it comes out the other side of the shaft (inside the handle). Then the handle assemble comes off the shaft. If it is stuck, you may need some heat. After the pin is pushed through, there is nothing holding the handle assembly on except maybe some rust. The pin is a spring pin, it is not threaded
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Take a small drift and drive the pin in until it comes out the other side of the shaft (inside the handle). Then the handle assemble comes off the shaft. If it is stuck, you may need some heat. After the pin is pushed through, there is nothing holding the handle assembly on except maybe some rust. The pin is a spring pin, it is not threaded
Perfect that did it.


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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Got two out of the three things I wanted done. With Walston's help I got the shifter off the right side of the steering column, aces there.

Secondly, I got one of the two levers off the column disassembled... I had to Dremel off the screw head it was so badly stripped and was able to save almost all of the parts to it. The choke side? Same situation but the screw is not stripped. It looks like someone previous but a 11mm nut and screw on it and there is a lot of wear and tear there.

Once I get this last one out (I've had enough for today!) I can really start with the stripping down of the body. While working on this my plan is to leave the engine for the moment and focus on the front axle and get that stripped down disassembled and repainted so I can reattach. The likewise the rear.

I put some comments in the quote below, I hope they are helpful, keep up the good work!
Very helpful indeed. many thanks.

The engine is quite simple and easy to rebuild if needed, so it is likely worth going through. Get a manual, they are available online.
Before I dissembled the tractor it fired right up without even an air cleaner, filter, busted choke lever and no muffler... I have a feeling its going to be in good shape. My brother has a compression gauge for me to test it out.

Tranny as you call it will at least need seals and new oil. If no problem shifting, I would not disassemble (IMHO).
Dumb question, is it not a transmission?
  • It shifts reasonably well
  • nothing leaking out of it and no cracks.
  • The wheel hubs are fairly tight and no noticeable wobble.
Mine came apart quite easily in the vise.
Ok, that confirms how I was planning to tackle it.

Thanks for putting up with all the newbie questions.
 

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JD called it a transaxle. I guess it is because it is a transmission, rear end and axles all in one. makes no difference to me what you call it.;)

Read a little about the engine. Unfortunately a compression test is not very helpful on the Kohler. They have a compression breaker to make them easy to start. To find out the condition you have to run a vacuum test on it. This measures the crankcase vacuum while running. I suspect the manual is on this site, if you can't find it let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
So finally got the last parts off: a previous owner(s) used metric nuts and Phillips head screws and nuts for the bolts in the column holding the lever necessitating using the Dremel to carefully cut them off as they were frozen and even the liquid wrench didn't loosen them.

Now I'm at the cleaning state before I can even start repainting. Its still to cold here to start washing the frame outside (the hose froze after it shot up to 58 the other day).

So as I understand it I can do the following after scrapping as much off of them as possible:
  • Buy a parts washer and go that route.
  • Get the industrial strength Dawn stuff and using boiling water. I tried it with the regular stuff in the kitchen and it worked well.
Anything I'm missing?
 

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I was powerwashing just yesterday in 40* weather, bring the hoses inside and I keep the powerwasher in the basement as well. I wouldn't recommend it without full rain gear though.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
So weather is finally warming but washing is a slow go. Lots of grease on the underbelly that does not want to come off. Using Dawn abs a toothbrush on the cracks and hard to reach spots.

I’m debating getting the frame sandblasted and powder coated.

As a bonus look what I found at the roadside for free, should got my D100.




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Mark, I really can't "recommend" this, but I've had great luck removing grease & sludge build up with gasoline and a parts brush. I let it soak, re-apply, soak until the soft bristle parts brush removes it. Yeh, time consuming and if not careful, you CAN go up in a ball of flames, but it works for me. Bob
 
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Mark, I really can't "recommend" this, but I've had great luck removing grease & sludge build up with gasoline and a parts brush. I let it soak, re-apply, soak until the soft bristle parts brush removes it. Yeh, time consuming and if not careful, you CAN go up in a ball of flames, but it works for me. Bob
Diesel fuel works just as good and less flammable.
 

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Believe it or not a cleaner called greased lightning is great as is aerosol scrubbing bubbles . Plus after you wash it off paint sticks to the finished product. ....Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Believe it or not a cleaner called greased lightning is great as is aerosol scrubbing bubbles . Plus after you wash it off paint sticks to the finished product. ....Brian
Thanks for the info guys. Work on this has halted for a bit as I work on putting up 261 linear feet of fencing for the dogs, (the JD D100 and 7 Lawn Cart are helping here.)

I do have a general question. I have a line on a STX 38 which from the photos seems to be in good shape. Seller wants $300 but says it needs a good carb cleaning. I haven't seen it in person but its about 1 mile from my house, Hell I could drive it back! As I noted before in my aborted attempt at the basket case STX I linked to I really like the black deck tractors for some reason. But $300? I'm thinking $200 firm. I don't really need it so I'm prepared to walk away if need be.

Thoughts on price?
 
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