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“Needs a carb cleaned” scares me. In my opinion that’s right up there with “runs great, but I don’t have a battery for it” These little engines are pretty simple, but make sure you can hear it run, and judge for your self if it is a dirty carb issue. I agree $200 is a good number.
 

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Hi

I'm reassembling a '65 110. Do you know how the choke and throttle cables are routed through the bare frame? The 110 manual shows how they reach the installed engine.

Many thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Hi

I'm reassembling a '65 110. Do you know how the choke and throttle cables are routed through the bare frame? The 110 manual shows how they reach the installed engine.

Many thanks.
They should, mind did when I took them out. It should route through the column to the engine.


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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
So the fence is about 99% done and the shed hadn’t been delivered yet. With that I’ve finally been able to get back to this.

I bought some Multi Strip Advanced and it’s bubbling the paint off as we speak. The photo below is the second coat. After this the plan is to use my new power washer with a Dawn solution and the multi strip again as needed.

The underside is going to be the question, it was well protected from rust by 50 years of grime, grease, crud and caked on grass. (From the look of it this tractor wasn’t outside long before I acquired it). The TBD is if I have the entire thing powder coated. I would imagine if I’m to do it right I should strip the underside then too?




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Discussion Starter #45
Finally!

After a really busy summer 261 linear feet of fence and a 12x16 shed now complete. The shed is of prime importance: it cleared the garage so I have space to work on my 67 Round fender!

As you can see its been fully stripped, in the end multi-strip left on for a around a day did it. The frame as you can also see is primed, and the first coats of green are on. Likewise the second photos show parts I've painted getting some air a day after being painted in the garage.

Next up is getting the front axle and disassembled and repainted followed by cleaning and repainting the rear axle. My thought is get those ready so I can but the wheels back on the floor. I have some car ramps I got for $20 that work well should I need to get it back up. Deck is now out of the elements as well and it will be a lot of sanding but no rust through or weld patches: in short it looks good.

The one question I do have: don/t shoot me but having to spray paint this, I'm taking my time and allowing it to dry between coats. So two questions:
1. Length of time to let the paint to fully cure?
2. Related to 1, what is the best spray to clear coat it?

Thanks in advance,
Mark

IMG_0595.jpg

IMG_0596.jpg
 

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I didn’t clear my ‘66 110. I figured since I’m using mine, it would be easier to touch up. I used JD rattle cans, and “tried” to let parts sit a few days before assembly. A few things I assembled next day and the paint seemed pretty hard for the most part. But after three days, the JD paint is pretty good. So if you can let the parts sit for a week (I know that’s pretty hard to do), you will be good.

Keep up the great work! It’s looking really good!!
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I didn’t clear my ‘66 110. I figured since I’m using mine, it would be easier to touch up. I used JD rattle cans, and “tried” to let parts sit a few days before assembly. A few things I assembled next day and the paint seemed pretty hard for the most part. But after three days, the JD paint is pretty good. So if you can let the parts sit for a week (I know that’s pretty hard to do), you will be good.

Keep up the great work! It’s looking really good!!
Thanks for the encouragement Nate.

I can there is no rush on my end. My goal with this is to use it occasionally, but not my regular tractor, that's what my D100 is for. I think the most work it will get next spring is when I do major maintenance on the D100 and pull the blades, etc. It will be nice to have this to be used should I run into any issues on my "daily driver".

Plus, with the weather starting to change here in upstate NY the amount of mows I have left is rapidly declining so no rush this Fall.
 

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Bear in mind once you start using it, it will be hard to use the newer one. These old tractors are way more fun to use! Especially once it’s done and you can be really proud of it!
 
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I am using PPG automobile paint, base coat clear coat. However my son recently restored a 108 and did it with JD rattle can paint, topped with a rattle can clear coat that he really liked, I will get the information from him and let you know. It looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
So just picked up a sand blaster. Now the dilemma: to strip off the paint I’ve already applied or only do so with the parts I have left, which are quite a bit.


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So just picked up a sand blaster. Now the dilemma: to strip off the paint I’ve already applied or only do so with the parts I have left, which are quite a bit.
If your happy with the outcome no need to redo it, in my opinion. If not satisfied….blast away!!!
 
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Discussion Starter #53
Ok, so remember guys I'm an IT nerd not mechanic, so here goes. Bunch of questions:

Need the following:
1 air filter cover
1 muffler (I believe there is a site for new ones?)
1 gas tank (possibly) its salvageable but dents in spots I can't pop them out.

The most important question: how the Hell does the flywheel come off the engine, I see the metal, "key", I've got the nut off but it doesn't seem to want to budge. I don't think I should be heating it. Thoughts?
 

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Why are you taking the flywheel off. There is nothing under it. The points are under a cover on the carburetor side of the engine and the condenser is is on the coil. Roger
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Here is where
Why are you taking the flywheel off. There is nothing under it. The points are under a cover on the carburetor side of the engine and the condenser is is on the coil. Roger
Repaint the whole thing?

Also two photos coming on the next post, Im guessing the previous owners "modified" it...
 

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Unless you are pulling out the crankshaft, or the crank seal behind the flywheel is leaking, there’s no need to remove the flywheel. But if you want/or need to remove the flywheel, a puller is typically needed. A decent steering wheel puller should do the trick.
 
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Discussion Starter #58
Update: I’ve got almost all the parts degreased and washed. Next up is sand blasting.


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Discussion Starter #59
Hope to have some photos up by the weekend.

I’ve begun repainting and reassembling parts. The front axel and wheels should be on by then.


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Discussion Starter #60
As mentioned: finally some pictures and one question, I think I have the front axle reversed? I'm fairly sure it goes on the other way... I also have not torqued down the bolt holding it in place so hence it being off of level.
258361


Second photo? Decided to give plastic "welding" a try. Of course like probably a lot of tractors in this vintage the split happened dead center of the hood where it flexes the most... So first try at plastic welding, letting it cool and will start the sanding process this weekend.

The previous owner (or someone else perhaps long ago) tried to do a patch it with fiberglass which I had to chip off the inside. In the end I had to lightly use my Dremel to get the remaining bits off.

258362
 
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