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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've been searching for 4 whole years for a 140, and after getting the offer to pick this one up, I just HAD to jump on it. We got it on Friday, just before another buyer came on Sunday to pick it up. We ended up bringing it home, along with a set of 212 side panels and a 300 carcass. We of course forgot our straps and had only one to strap down: The 140s hood, 212 side panels, 300 fenders, 140 fuel tank, 140, and the 300. We managed to get home safely and nothing was lost.

The 140 needs a new back tire, a motor, a new steering column, battery tray, and all the electrical. The hood is just sitting on the frame for now, but planning to have it mounted in the future. Luckily for me it sat in the original owner's sunroom after the motor went out but after 15 or so years of sitting in there he had to sell it, after which it sat outside under a tree, exposed to the sun. Luckily we got it only shortly after. The 140 is pretty much mint, having only faded paint, and a little bit of rust. All the dash components are either in bad shape or missing so everything's getting replaced. The paint IS original, just faded from sitting under a glass roof, and the rust is just from the battery and the little bit of sitting outside it did. The hood only has one crack on the front and a tiny chunk missing, and headlight panel has been impaled, but the rubber ring and wiring is still there. Other than that, this thing is completely unmolested.


The 300 is donating its H1.5 (there's 2 handles but only one set of front lines; there was a diverter valve), its steering, some of its hydro linkage parts, and the hydraulic caps. There isn't much other than that, but I am selling the mint dash on it.
 

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There is a 140 that's being parted out in our classified section, just in case you need anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So I took the steering column out of the 140 by just unbolting it then disassembling it from the bottom, then knocking the shaft out from the top. I tried putting the 300 column in but apparently the pittman arm nut is larger and it won't fit through the small hole in the column. I'm just saying screw and I'm just going to put a bearing and spacer in to replace the inside bolt and put the column in.
Because I can't currently fix the steering, I tried to take the H1 out to put the H2 in but that was a no go, the lines are all stuck together and I couldn't unscrew the bolts because the lines just wanted to twist with the bolts. The one line I found is nice and bent up from the PO trying to literally steal everything, wiring, hydraulics, engine, etc.
I then decided that, since i can't do anything i wanted to, I was just going to clean the tractor off. I was pleasantly surprised by the fact that the paint isn't faded, it's just got this white film of what I assume to be tree sap on it. This thing cleaned up nice, save for the hood, which has been repainted because all the paint's missing off the front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I've mainly been working on the 317 as of late. Kinda wanna start working on One eyed larry after finding out the M18 was a lemon and needs to be rebuilt. Time for some wiring, a motor, and a fix for the steering.
 

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There is a 140 that's being parted out in our classified section, just in case you need anything.
Not seeing it, is it an old ad not on page 1?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So, I just bought the 210, and I'm hoping to eventually scavenge it for parts, especially the parts Larry needs, mainly wiring, motor, and steering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I think the 140 is finally going to get a motor after being a parts tractor for almost 22 years. Everything I needed from the 210 is junk except the engine. I'm just going to transplant the K241 from my 210 into it, and I'm thinking of just cutting off the hydraulic system so I can run it without them, especially with the H2 swap got stuck halfway done. How should I connect the 2 hydraulic ports together to run the tractor without hydraulics?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Motor is out of the 210 and into the 140. Just have to take the flywheel screen and PTO off, then take my other steering column and combine it with the column from the 210. Larry's getting new life after 22 years of being a parts tractor!
 

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Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you could just cap the hydraulic in & out at the transaxle. A loop would work as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here's a more detailed explanation:


After I got home from school, I "persuaded" my brother to order my remote oil filter, then I went straight up our farm. I got started unhooking the wiring, and found that my no-spark issue is definitely in the coil-key switch connector. I popped the two halves apart and it was like a blizzard of corrosion. I'm just going to swap the coil from my K321 because I don't even know if this one works.
My brother came up and worked on something for a bit, I got the motor mount unbolted and the manual PTO linkage unhooked, ready to take the engine out, but I changed my mind when I saw that the motor mount was wedged in there good. I decided to just unbolt the whole engine from the mount and lift it out separately. Also, the one motor mount both broke off the frame and the ears broke off the mount itself.
I got everything on the engine itself unbolted, got the manual PTO engagement arm and mule drive off, cables disconnected, and the wiring apart. We had a fun time getting the front right bolt out, especially with a linkage in the way. It took 5 hours to get everything ready to come out.
Me and my brother were pretty annoyed at that point, and we harnessed that energy to muscle the engine out of the tractor and into the 140 frame.
 

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Matt, You really can't cap the pressure port on the hydro. Pump will be constantly making pressure, only to be relieved by aux relief valve...puts strain and pump & relief valve. A loop is the way to go.

These use an "open center valve" system, so a hose from the in to the out on the hydro would be the same as "normal" operation...free flow through a hose rather than the valve. Bob
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So, got the flywheel screen off the K241. First 3 screws came out fine, the last one stripped off. Ended up breaking the screen off so I can get vice grips onto the screw to get it out. Now to take off the oil drain and bolt her down.
Also, I've been wondering if, for the H2, could I just use my 300 valve with the 90 degree fitting from another 300 valve for the feed? I have 2 valves, just have to find the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Motor's drain petcock off and got the motor bolted in. Got all the excess AQS shrouding off and test fit the hood. Larry's starting to shape up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Current shed situation, lol.
We have our 316, 318, Kawasaki quad, Burns, Norm (brother's normal 140), Pat (Brother's patio 140), our 455, my 317, the new 214, my brother's cub cadet (under the john deere cover), Larry, and my brother's 330 all squeezed into this relatively small shed.
 

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Looks like home!!:yahoo:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
After struggling for a while I managed to get the H1 valve out. Luckily I've learned that if the line is turning with the nut it's usually stuck to the valve fitting, not the nut.
I need to partially disassemble the H2 valve to get the 90 degree fitting in, so I can put it in with only slight extra bending on the stock lines needed. The hole I need to drill should be easy, I just need to find a drill bit to fit and drill everything out.
 

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37º fittings can be a pita to get out/off. There's steel tubing with a steel sleeve, and a steel nut. One, both, or all three can be rusted together. PB will help (sometimes) or a torch. I worked for 5 days trying to get the tubing to my front couplers loose...with NO success! Finally, cut tubing and installed unions. Keep an eye on the tubing once you get everything up & running. You may (??) have a leak due to tubing twisting & cracking. Just something to watch for.

Not sure of your fitting "type" going into valve...ORB or NPT... but DO NOT USE teflon tape on the threads!!! Small pieces can break off and lodge in your valve or pump causing damage or failure! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
37º fittings can be a pita to get out/off. There's steel tubing with a steel sleeve, and a steel nut. One, both, or all three can be rusted together. PB will help (sometimes) or a torch. I worked for 5 days trying to get the tubing to my front couplers loose...with NO success! Finally, cut tubing and installed unions. Keep an eye on the tubing once you get everything up & running. You may (??) have a leak due to tubing twisting & cracking. Just something to watch for.

Not sure of your fitting "type" going into valve...ORB or NPT... but DO NOT USE teflon tape on the threads!!! Small pieces can break off and lodge in your valve or pump causing damage or failure! Bob
The green fitting is just the 90 degree fitting off the H1 valve. It's a tapered fitting with the O ring on it. I can't put a straight fitting on because of the pressure line being parallel to the other lines, because it comes across the tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
H2 swap is almost done. The lines are in the tractor, they just need tightened and given the final bends.

I also went and picked up some parts, fenders, a frame, and a 43 blade. I'll find some way to use the stuff.
 
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