[jsapple]

I am getting fairly close to finishing my restoration of my 1964 JD 110 and thought I would start sharing photos of the progress. This is how I found it which wasn't that bad of shape for a nearly 50 year old tractor. The serial number is 8320.

 

[jsapple]

The tear down begins. I am really surprised at how easy it is to free up a majority of the bolts.

 

[kdursus]

Jason Applegate - Looks like a really good project and glad things are progressing well. Since that tractor's carburetor is gravity feed for fuel, I'm not sure how that carburetor ever got any fuel. Keep up the progress.

Kenneth

 

[jsapple]

Me neither Kenneth. I didn't start the tractor when I bought it. At the price I payed it really didn't matter. Engine has good compression and clean oil in the pan so I'm hoping it will be easily started or rebuildable.

 

[mikeduwe]

If it makes sense in your timeline, its a lot easier to find out you have mechanical problems before you paint everything up and carefully assemeble it.

When I did my SF112, it was a non running (and of course non driving) tractor when I got it. I had the engine rebuilt and did bolt it back on the bare frame after to run it.

But then I sent everything out to a body shop to paint. Assembled it all and went to drive it. CLICK CLICK CLICK in the tranny.

Had to pull it all apart and found a gear missing some teeth.

 

[jsapple]

Im hoping that is not the case. The tranny is off and I have stressed it in all gears and appears OK. The choke lever was stuck and bent on the carb so I am waiting on that to come in before I reassemble the motor and crank it up. I have a bench that I bolt them to in order to start them. I'm trying to think of all the issues I could have beforehand and this site has certainly helped me do that. I have read several posts on issues before I started the resto. This site is invaluable as far as I am concerned.

 

[jsapple]

 

[jsapple]

 

[jsapple]

 

[jsapple]

Getting closer but an unheated garage in the winter time doesn't allow for much painting. Only small parts that I can take to the house to cure. My wife loves that.

 

[jimbomsg]

Jason make sure you replace the detent springs in the transmission before you re install the transmission. Or you wish you had. Just my experience.
Jim

 

[Tucker87]

Are the detent springs inside the trans or outside

 

[herg]

inside... they go in the shifter forks

 

[jsapple]

I was going to ask the same question. I can't find them anywhere on my parts manual.

 

[T-Mo]

Here you go guys, an excerpt from PC855, parts catalog for the RF 110. Shifter Forks are item 1, the detent balls is item 3, spring is item 2.

Pages from PC0855.PDF.pdf (14.4 k)

 

[jsapple]

Sorry Jim, I missed printing off that section. I found after searching a little harder. Thanks

 

[jsapple]

Hats off to Jim Hartman and Mike Duwe for their advice on replacing the detent springs in the shifter forks. Found that one was broke and the other was compressed. While removing the gears to get the forks out I notice a gear had a chipped tooth. Both of the issues would have no doubt made themselves apparent after I had put so much effort into painting the tractor and putting it back together. Which would have made me pretty upset. Thanks guys!

 

[jsapple]

Ok, next issue. Where can I find replacement gears for my 3 speed? It is the 22 tooth gear on he idler shaft. Apparently JD does not have them anymore.

 

[woodpecker41]

Peerless a part of Tecumseh was the place that made the transmission. Tecumseh went belly up but the Peerless part was bought and I think still exists. Google Peerless and see what you can find. If you have the JD part number for the gear Google that and and you may find one or at least the Peerless part number. Then put those part numbers in E-Bay searches. Roger

 

[jsapple]

Got it guys. Wasn't having any luck with the part numbers but J&D had some. Quick to ship too. Now it's time to put it back together and paint it up.