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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello fellas

Started to cut my grass today and after one pass the tractor stalled. I was able to start it back up in neutral, when I tried to move it out of the neutral position it stalled again. Started right back up again once in neutral. Using a screw driver holding in the neutral relay I was able to drive it back to the shop. I fixed a tie around the neutral relay think that just maybe the switch was bad. I can do this and drive it now, but when I try to engage the PTO for the cutting deck it immediately stalls out again. I can turn the deck belt and the pto and it moves ok. What do you think this could be? Thanks!
 

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Jay,

Check that you do not have a bad fuse (25 amp) at F1, or a loose connection at the fuse holder or someplace along the line into the TDCM pin X14-C.

If the fuse is blown, check that your PTO coil winding is not partially shorted, should measure in the neighborhood of 3.5 to 4.7 ohms. If it is much less you have a problem...and a new fuse will blow again after a short time.

The only other switched loads directly on the 25 amp fuse are the headlights and tail lights so you might check that the wiring to them is not shorted somewhere.

Of course the TDCM is also powered from the 25 amp fuse as well, but it rarely fails, is very expensive and is a non-returnable part -- so we want to eliminate all other possibilities before considering that as a direct cause.

If all of this checks out OK let us know and more things to try can be compiled.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, here is what I did check. When I disconnect the PTO power it still happens when I move the switch to on. I have a fuse blown but its a 10 amp closest to the center of the tractor. I also disconnected the front and rear light wiring when testing. I not a mechanic by any means but when the silver actuator on the side of the motor moves when I try to engage the pto is when it dies. Just before it quit working it kind of made a hissing noise.
 

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Jay, the center 10 amp fuse might be a spare, at least it is on my 322 gas engined Yanmar...

Do you have the schematic for your tractor, and the diagnostic sections from the TM1591 service manual? These are essential documents for keeping your tractor maintained and repaired. I can send you an excerpt of some of the wiring diagram until you get the full manual.

That 'silver actuator' is the fuel cutoff for your diesel engine (no ignition on a diesel so that is the way to stop the engine when you need to.) It is controlled by the TDCM which in turn reads the status of the neutral switch, the seat safety, the PTO switch(es) and the parking brake switch if your tractor is SN 596,723 or above.

The seat safety switch must sense the operator present for the PTO to operate without stopping the engine. The neutral switch can only cause the engine fuel cutoff to close if the TDCM is 'timed out' (no operator present with PTO switch ON) or if the TDCM has no power supplied from the 25 amp fuse, or the TDCM has failed. I recall the TDCM for the diesel runs about $200 now, so lets be sure that everything else is OK before going that route...

If you have a voltmeter, measure for the present of +12 volts at pin X14-C on the TDCM when the key is ON.

Your 25 amp fuse and the ignition switch can be tested for functionality by verifying that the headlights work normally when the key is ON.

That "hissing noise" that occurred when the symptom first appeared might have been a part of the wiring harness frying, so look carefully for a charred wire.

Good luck...

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Chuck
I have had the tractor for about two months. The guy that I got if from works for the local John Deere dealer as a service man and is an uncle to one of my co-workers that I spend time drinking beer with. I gave him a call and he gave me some of the same tips that you have. I replaced the fuse and still didn't get anything, although this time it didn't stall! The PTO just didn't engage, and blew the fuse again. My buddy’s uncle suggested that I stop over and he had a replacement switch for the dash. I had traced all the wires and not found anything wrong, so we though it might be something worn in this. Sure enough after changed the fuse again and replacing the switch if fired right up and the PTO works. I guess I still have a lot to learn, and also need to get that manual. I am gratefully for all your help, and time assisting me in troubleshooting my issue!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh, I just did think of something. I haven't removed my wire tie from the neutral switch and checked to make sure everything was working with that. I'll have to check that first thing in the morning! I hope its not anything with the TDCM, I think my tractor budget is just about out.
I let you know what I find out tomorrow.
Thanks again.
 

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Martin it depends on the year of the 345. Early tractors pre 70,000 serial number used AM118395 which is 4.799 inches in diameter and is for an HB belt with a 34 degree angle. Serial number tractor 70,000 and up used AM122585 which is 4.547 inches in diameter for a 38 degree 3L belt. I would buy the one from JD or you will end up with belt problems. Roger
 

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Martin, I bought a weldable 5 inch pulley from Princess Auto for about $10 turned the bent sheave off and welded pulley on, used a B82 belt (5L X 84) three years ago and still going strong for a lot less money.
 
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